From Seawalls to Sand in My Shoes: Exploring Galveston, TX

People often ask me how I pick where to travel, probably because with so many choices,

Morning coffee at site 52 on the Gulf of Mexico

it’s enough to make anyone’s head spin faster than a suitcase on an airport carousel. When I planned this adventure, my top priority was visiting Texas. Why? Well, I figured if I’m planning an epic journey, I might as well start in the state famous for doing everything bigger, right? My ambitious journey through the expansive Southwestern United States started with an important choice: deciding where in Texas to begin. I knew it had to be along the Gulf Coast, someplace where a beach was involved, because nothing says “epic journey” like sand in your shoes. After some serious Google Maps detective work, Galveston won my highly competitive title of “Best Starting Point in Texas.” We arrived in Galveston the week before Christmas, and the stop exceeded our expectations. For those unfamiliar, Galveston Island is about 30 miles long and 2-3 miles wide, a sandy barrier island that runs along the Texas coast across a two-mile wide Galveston Bay. It's a significant Gulf Coast spot, known for its beaches, history, and hurricane protection. Our campsite was magnificent. One of the top 5 spots we have stayed at to date of our over 60 spots of camping. We backed the camper right up to the beach, and every night we fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing into the seashore. That’s not to say that every day was a beach day, weather wise. But there certainly were plenty of mornings when the sun lifted itself over the Gulf and treated us to something truly memorable, making our coffee taste even better as we gazed out at the waves. 

Galveston is an oceanfront community that has faced significant challenges due to hurricanes originating from the Gulf of Mexico. The most catastrophic event occurred in September of

1900 Storm Memorial On The Seawall

1900, when a hurricane claimed approximately 8,000 lives and devastated what was then a prosperous and sophisticated port city, regarded as one of the wealthiest in the United States. This event marked the end of Galveston's Golden Era. In response, a 17-foot-tall seawall was constructed along a 3.5-mile stretch to safeguard the city against future storms. As Galveston expanded, the seawall was further extended: an additional 4 miles were added in 1927, followed by further extensions in 1963, resulting in a current length of over 10 miles. The best part is that the seawall has been transformed into an outstanding spot for recreation, bike riding, and walking. As you stroll along the seawall, you’re treated to breathtaking views of the Gulf stretching out to the horizon, with waves rolling in just steps away. People of all ages can be found jogging, rollerblading, or simply enjoying a relaxing sunset walk while taking in the fresh ocean breeze. And with our campsite situated on the west end of the island just beyond the seawall, we were able to take long walks on the beach listening to the roar of the waves rather than the drone of street traffic. It was a wonderful place to camp and enjoy the beach and the Galveston area.

In addition to strolling along the seawall or walking barefoot on the sand, we kept ourselves busy exploring other attractions around the Galveston area.

• Frequently, our initial activities are structured to deliver informative content about the region, often including guided tours led by local experts. The Galveston Historic Walking Tour exemplified this approach. We participated in a two-hour walking tour of downtown Galveston with Noelle; as the only participants, the experience was comparable to a private tour. We walked up and down streets called “The Strand”, “Mechanic Street” and “Market Street”, stopping into building like “the Tremont House” and “Shearn Moody Plaza”. Here is an interesting factoid we learned on our tour: Galveston is a major port for cruise ships, second only to the Port of Miami.

Moody Plaza & Galveston Railroad Museum

• The Galveston Railroad Museum was beautifully decorated for the “Polar Express”
  
  experience during Christmas and appeared particularly festive as we explored the exhibits. Located in historic Union Station, the museum boasts the southwest’s largest collections of restored locomotives and train stock, offering a hands-on look at railroad history through vintage trains, interactive exhibits, and model layouts. We have been to a number of train museums, but this was the first one we were able to walk through a number of restored Pullman cars. 

• The Bryan Museum is an esteemed institution dedicated to history and art, located in the restored Galveston Orphans' Home. It houses one of the world's largest collections of artifacts, documents, and artwork pertaining to Texas and the American West. Founded by JP and Mary Jon Bryan, the museum was established to provide a permanent residence for their significant collection. In 2015, they acquired the deteriorated historic building, invested substantial resources into its complete renovation, and created the museum to honor both the heritage of the American West and the legacy of the successful orphanage that previously occupied the site.

The Bryan Museum, Restored Galveston Orphans' Home

• One of our favorite experiences in Galveston was visiting the League-Kempner House.

  

  The League-Kempner House Restored Greenhouse 

  This fascinating tour showcased a historic mansion being restored to its original 1893 splendor. The house was first constructed for entrepreneur John League by renowned Galveston architect Nicholas Clayton, and it was later sold to Eliza Kempner in the 1920s. For many years, the Kempner family enjoyed the home, making only minor updates, trying to preserve its original character while adding modern amenities suited to twentieth century living. Over time, as with many grand mansions from Galveston's golden age, the property was abandoned and fell into disrepair, facing significant water issues, including leaking roofs and basement flooding. In 2021, the house was purchased by builder and developer Janie Mitcham. Originally intended for renovation and resale, Ms. Mitcham decided in 2022 to convert the property into a non-profit organization with the goal of restoring the house to its original grandeur. This remarkable restoration project stands out for the meticulous effort to preserve as much of the original structure as possible. Having had the opportunity to meet Janie Mitcham and her sister and tour the restoration process, I can attest to the exceptional dedication involved. They post videos of their renovation project to YouTube, and I look forward to observing future progress. You never know, one day we may decide to return to Galveston and revisit the League-Kempner House as a completely refurbished Galveston landmark.

Foyer of The League-Kempner House

I've begun to recognize a certain rhythm that accompanies our long journeys to corners of America we never imagined exploring. Galveston gifted us with stories and memories that will linger long after the sand has left our shoes. From the rhythmic crash of waves along the seawall to the elaborate restoration of historic mansions, this resilient island continually reveals new surprises hidden just beyond each sunset or behind an aged, weather-beaten door. With every step, we became part of the vibrant tapestry that defines Galveston, TX as truly unique. Texas’s sheer size beckons us onward, and after experiencing the charm of its coastline, we’re excited to see what awaits in our next destination: the bustling, culturally rich city of Austin. Each stop deepens our appreciation for the unexpected wonders found along the way, reminding us that adventure is often closer than we think, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.