From Golden David to Churchill Downs: Our Louisville Finale

Picture this: You’re strolling down Main Street in Louisville, Kentucky, minding your own business, when suddenly you’re confronted, face-to-err, well, everything, with a double-sized, gold-painted David. That’s right, a replica of Michelangelo’s iconic masterpiece, usually basking in the Italian sun, now stands gleaming (and unapologetically exposed) outside the 21c Museum Hotel, turning heads and raising eyebrows. It’s the kind of glorious kitsch that has been the theme of our RV journey - a trip where Amarillo, Texas, showed off its Cadillac Ranch, Edwardsville, Illinois charmed with its giant catsup bottle, and Austin, Texas brought sidewalk sculptures to life, - each stop a new chapter in my quest for the most delightfully eccentric roadside art. But Louisville’s golden David takes the cake (or maybe just the fig leaf); put it this way, with a statue this size, there’s no room for modesty. And if you happened to catch me trying to snap a selfie with David, well, let's just say my attempts at blending in were about as successful as hiding behind that statue's fig leaf.

If you’re new to Louisville, one of the best ways to experience its charm is simply to take a stroll through the heart of downtown. Louisville is a city that invites you to explore on foot, with lively streets, friendly faces, and an easygoing atmosphere. As you wander along Main Street, you'll discover unique attractions like the Louisville Slugger Walk of Fame, with its mile-long public art display featuring home plate plaques and towering baseball bat statues.

Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory

This walk connects the Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory to Louisville Slugger Field, honoring legendary players such as Pete Browning, Joe DiMaggio, Hank Aaron, Derek Jeter, Babe Ruth, Ted Williams, Jackie Robinson, and Roberto Clemente, all of whom swung Louisville Slugger bats.

Riverfront Plaza, Louisville, KY

Or, on a sunny spring day, you might prefer a walk across the Ohio River on the pedestrian-friendly George Rogers Clark Memorial Bridge. Better known as the Second Street Bridge, it was built in 1929 and links Louisville, Kentucky, with Clarksville, Indiana. On the Indiana side, you can explore Water Tower Square and Ashland Park. On your way back, be sure to take in the Louisville skyline stretching along the banks of the Ohio River.

After taking in Louisville from the riverfront and its lively downtown streets, Judy and I found ourselves exploring the Muhammad Ali Center - admittedly with a bit of skepticism. Growing up in white suburbia in the late 70’s, I mostly thought of Ali as a loudmouth and a showboater, so I wasn’t sure what I would make of a museum devoted to him. But the center gently and completely changed my perspective. It is a beautifully done museum, thoughtful in both its design and its storytelling, and what impressed me most was how fully it captured the arc of Ali’s life—not just the fame and the fights, but the man himself, his struggles, his faith, his courage, and the values that shaped him. Now, as a much older and wiser person, I came away with a deeper appreciation for his six core principles—confidence, conviction, dedication, giving, respect, and spirituality—which feel especially meaningful in today’s political climate. I walked in expecting a few trophies and some bravado; I walked out feeling grateful for the discovery of a place that told Ali’s story with such heart, wisdom, and humanity.

Kentucky Derby Museum

We visited Churchill Downs on a sunny, warm Sunday in April, just 20 days before the 152^nd running of the Kentucky Derby, and the excitement was already in the air. The grounds and museum were buzzing with activity as Louisville prepared for the longest-running continuous sporting event in America. Churchill Downs is an impressive place—grand in scale, rich in tradition, and unmistakably special as the home of the nation’s most prestigious horse race. Nicknamed “The Most Exciting Two Minutes in Sports,” the Derby is beloved for its dramatic 20-horse field, its deep Southern roots, and its place as the first leg of the Triple Crown. With a little planning, we were able to visit the Kentucky Derby Museum and take a tour of the sprawling racing complex,

Wagering Area, Churchill Downs

then spend hours strolling through the impressive Churchill Downs Museum and watching footage of Derby races dating back to 1952. But what may have stayed with me most was how much the people of Louisville adore this event. They truly love every bit of the pageantry and tradition—and honestly, it’s hard not to get swept up in that joy yourself.

In typical fashion, no visit to a new city feels entirely “official” for us without the inclusion of a food tour. If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a hundred times: we’re tasting our way across this great country, one food tour at a time. In Louisville, Katie led us through NuLu (short for “New Louisville”) and she was terrific. It was our first tour with earpieces, which meant we could actually hear her explanations over the happy chaos of loud, crowded restaurants. NuLu itself is a revitalized market district, and over the course of three delicious hours, we sampled our way across a pretty impressive culinary spectrum.

Delicious Coffee Drink at Biscuit Belly in NuLu,

One stop was Biscuit Belly, where we enjoyed mouthwatering biscuits with a variety of gravies—some with bacon, others with mushrooms—and coffee cocktails dreamy enough to make you consider a second breakfast. From there, we made our way to Feast BBQ, where we tried burgoo for the first time, a thick, savory Kentucky stew slow cooked with a mix of meats and seasonal vegetables. Our seven-stop food tour also included beer cheese and pretzels at The Galley and fried chicken strips with specialty dipping sauces at Royals Hot Chicken. And, as so many good food tours do, this one ended on a sweet note at the locally owned Muth’s Candies, where we sampled a caramel-wrapped marshmallow. It was a little too sweet for me, but Judy thought it was just about perfect. If I ever do put together a “Best Of” retrospective of our food-tour adventures, NuLu will have earned its place on the list.

Guide Katie Outside Muth's Candies, Secrets of Louisville Food & History Tour

Louisville turned out to be a wonderful final stop on our six-month journey. We saw our way through the city, ate our way through some terrific local spots, and soaked up as much of its character, history, and energy as we could before turning toward home. Once we left Kentucky, though, the next 1,000 miles—with overnight stops in Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York—were really more about making tracks than sightseeing. Since we’ve traveled through that region on many previous trips, and with the weather becoming less cooperative, we decided to pick up the pace and get back to Massachusetts a couple of days earlier than planned. As it turned out, that was probably a wise move. Our calendar was already filling up fast, and we may have allowed a little too little time between pulling into the driveway with the camper and flying out again to visit our son Josh, who is in a veterinary medicine graduate program. We are so excited to see him, and those extra days at home will give us just enough breathing room to get “Neil” (the Northpoint) cleaned up and put in order before we set off on our next adventure.

If you’ve been following along faithfully, you may have noticed that this post has taken quite a while to arrive. Our last travel blog entry was nearly two months ago, and I know this one seemed to stop rather abruptly back in Springfield, Missouri, on April 13. The truth is, after getting about two-thirds of this post written, I simply ran out of steam. This six-month journey was a memorable one—28 stops, 20 blog posts, countless miles, and more wonderful experiences than I can easily count—but by the time we returned home, I found myself mentally and creatively tired. I also found myself wrestling with a bigger question: how does a travel blog like this one end, or should it end at all? That certainly does not mean we are done traveling, or that “Neil,” our faithful Northpoint, will be sitting still for long. But it does mean that Judy and I feel it is time to ease up on the accelerator a bit. When we first retired, it felt important to stay busy, embrace this RV lifestyle wholeheartedly, and make the most of the freedom we had worked so long to enjoy. Three years later, we can look back with gratitude on some remarkable numbers: more than 450 nights in the RV, over 22,000 miles traveled, and more than 80 blog posts shared along the way. They are impressive numbers, to be sure, but retirement is a long road, and we do not want to burn out on something we still love so much. So, this summer we will stay a little closer to home, enjoying places like Scusset Beach in MA, Newport, RI and the White Mountains of NH, at a gentler pace. And while we may be slowing down for a season, there is still more adventure ahead, including a wonderful month-long trip to Europe this fall, when we will cruise the Danube and Rhine Rivers and begin gathering a whole new set of stories to share. So, check back every so often, we’re not signing off forever, just shifting to a lower gear, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Castles to Catsup: The Final Miles of Our Southwestern Adventure.

As we pulled out of Oklahoma City and made our way northeast into Missouri, we officially wrapped up our deep dive into the southwestern United States, a journey that began back in October 2025. With this being my 20^th entry and the blog nearing its conclusion after 19 posts spread across months of adventure, I want to thank those who’ve shared the ride with us. Now, as winter gives way to spring and our return to Massachusetts draws closer, our travel style is shifting. Gone are the leisurely, immersive stays; instead, we’re moving at a brisker pace, pausing only briefly at each spot as we cross familiar Midwestern territory. This is a transitional phase for the blog and for us—our stops are shorter, and the stories are evolving. Our whirlwind stop in Springfield, Missouri was followed by a touchdown in Edwardsville, Illinois, where we parked the camper and hit pause for three weeks—just long enough to jet back to Massachusetts for some spring skiing (so my brand-new knee didn't feel neglected again), and to celebrate Passover with family. After we returned to Edwardsville, our “to do” list was down to just one grand finale—because even the best adventures need a closing chapter, preferably with less baggage than our camper. So, let’s flash you through approximately three weeks in less than 900 words, shall we?

First Stop:        Springfield, Missouri

What would you say if I told your there’s a castle in the middle of Springfield, Missouri?!? That’s right, I said a castle! Built in 1913 by the Knights of Pythias, the Pythian Castle originally served as a grand orphanage and retirement home for members. During World War II, the U.S. Military took over the limestone structure, using it to house prisoners of war and rehabilitate injured soldiers. The site later functioned as an Army Reserve center until it was sold to private owners in 1993. Due to its long, diverse history, the castle is widely known as a popular spot for guided ghost tours and paranormal

Steven & Rock in Pythian Castle Basement

investigations.

Wilson's Creek National Battlefield

Drawn by our interest in Civil War history, we spent a day at Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield in nearby Republic, Missouri, the site of the first major Civil War battle west of the Mississippi River on August 10, 1861. This bloody conflict saw 5,400 Union troops face 12,000 Confederates, resulting in more than 2,500 casualties and the death of Union General Nathaniel Lyon. We drove the 4.9-mile loop road, stopping to walk at each of the eight major battle sites—including “Bloody Hill.” While the Union lost the battle, they ultimately prevented Missouri from joining the Confederacy.

 

Second Stop:    Edwardsville, Illinois

Edwardsville, Illinois was meant to be a quiet pause before catching a flight back to Boston. But Judy, activities director “extraordinaire, changed everything as she managed to snag us front row seats at the Wildey Theatre for an afternoon of ELO hits featuring “Mr. Blue Sky”. My Blue Sky" is an acclaimed 10-piece Electric Light Orchestra (ELO) tribute band based in St. Louis, known for meticulous, note-for-note recreations of ELO's 70s and 80s hits. Founded by musician Jeff Faulkner the band features a full three-piece string section, complex harmonies, and a high-energy live show with multimedia visuals. It was a fantastic show, and was the perfect burst of excitement, lifting our spirits just in time for the next leg of our journey.

Third Stop:        Lincoln, NH

After fifteen months with my brand-new knee, I was practically bouncing to get back on the slopes. Two winters spent sulking on the sidelines had left me with a serious case of ski deprivation, so I carved out two weeks in March for a Lincoln, NH snow-fix. The weather gods obliged, dumping nearly eight inches of fresh powder—just enough to make me question if I should send them a thank-you note as well. I squeezed in nine days of full-throttle skiing, and my knee behaved like a champ: no aches, no swelling, and no embarrassing face-plants. I was so pleased, I emailed my orthopedic surgeon, thanking him for his work, and acknowledging that all the rehab had paid off in spectacular fashion.

Return to:     Edwardsville, Illinois

World's Largest Catsup Bottle. Collinsville, IL

Still in pursuit of the ultimate “kitschy” roadside spectacle, we struck gold—err, ketchup—just a stone’s throw from our RV campsite, in Collinsville, Illinois. There, towering over the town like a condiment superhero, stood the world’s largest Catsup Bottle. This 170-foot-tall marvel is not just a water tower in disguise; it’s an icon built in 1949 and lovingly rescued from demolition by a determined community, now proudly listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 

As we point the RV toward Louisville, Kentucky—an entirely new adventure in a state we’ve never explored—there’s a bittersweet sense of anticipation in the air. After nearly six months crisscrossing landscapes, collecting memories, and discovering the unexpected, it’s hard to believe our journey is almost at its end. While we’re excited to experience the charm of Kentucky and check off this final stop before heading home, there’s a gentle sadness that comes with wrapping up a chapter filled with so much laughter, wonder, and roadside oddities. Still, every road trip must have a last mile, and with grateful hearts, we’re ready to savor these closing moments before the southwestern adventure officially concludes. So, with one last state to discover and a story almost complete, we invite you to join us, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Cowboying Up In Oklahoma City.

It’s time to “Cowboy up,” folks, we’ve landed smack dab in Oklahoma City! For the uninitiated, that classic rodeo phrase means summoning your inner grit, straightening your hat, and tackling whatever life throws your way, preferably without whining (or getting bucked off). And where better to channel your inner cowboy (or cowgirl) than Oklahoma City, the undisputed epicenter of all things cattle, dust, and derring-do? This city proudly sits at the crossroads of the great historic cattle trails and lays claim to the world’s largest stocker and feeder cattle market—talk about beefy bragging rights. Our journey east along I-40 from Amarillo, TX carried us through the Southern Great Plains, where the grass rolls out like a green-red carpet, ranches stretch as far as your eyes can see, and the sky is so wide you almost need a panoramic view just to take it all in. We passed herds of cattle so sizable, even the cows seemed impressed. Oklahoma City itself is a lively “Modern Frontier”, a city where cowboy boots and craft cocktails coexist, where neighborhoods like Bricktown pulse with energy, and where you can walk, eat, and dance your way through vibrant Midtown. Our last stop in the southwest set the bar high, but OKC was ready to lasso our heart, with a tip of the hat and a wink to the wild, wonderful West.

Needing to stretch our legs and watching the weather forecast for rainy days ahead, we spent our first full day in OKC by heading southeast to Thunderbird State Park. This popular recreational area spans 1,874 acres and features a 6,000-acre lake with 86 miles of shoreline. Established in the 1960s for flood control and municipal water supply, it’s well-loved for its proximity to the metro area and offers numerous hiking trails, boating, and camping options.

On a rain-soaked Thursday, we embarked on a thoughtfully planned historic walking and streetcar tour of sprawling Oklahoma City, led by Holly—a fifth-generation Oklahoman 

Centennial Land Run Monument in Bricktown

whose passion for her hometown was evident at every turn. Holly expertly wove together tales of the Land Rush, the oil boom and bust, and the city’s remarkable renaissance as we navigated the wide sidewalks and lively parks of Bricktown and Downtown. Oklahoma City’s vastness is staggering; with 620 square miles, it ranks among America’s largest cities by land area, giving it a truly expansive feel thanks to decades of annexations. Our journey began at the awe-inspiring Centennial Land Run Monument in Bricktown, where artist Paul Moore’s monumental bronze sculptures capture the frenetic energy of the 1889 Land Rush—forty-five figures frozen in a dramatic race for new beginnings. Highlights included the soaring Devon Energy Center, Oklahoma City’s tallest building, and the Chickasaw Bricktown Ballpark, home to the Triple-A Oklahoma City Comets and a crown jewel for baseball fans. We also stepped into The National, Autograph Collection, located in the First National Center This 1931 bank-turned-hotel features Tellers, a restaurant and bar located in the former bank lobby

Original Tellers Window @ The National, Autograph Collection  

where the original teller booths have been restored and kept as part of the décor. We zipped across the city on the spotlessly clean yet surprisingly quiet streetcar, culminating at the Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum. Here, amid the haunting “Field of Empty Chairs” and the enduring “Survivor Tree,” we paused in reverence for all who were impacted, a powerful reminder of both tragedy and resilience. The thoughtful design of our tour allowed us to experience the soul of OKC, blending its storied past and vibrant present, and left us eager to return and explore even deeper.

If you’re searching for proof that Oklahoma City stands tall as the epicenter of cowboy culture, look no further than the colossal National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum. This place isn’t just a museum—it’s practically a city block devoted to the legends, stories, and artistry that define the American West. With more than 28,000 Western and Native American artworks and artifacts, including iconic masterpieces by Remington and Russell, it’s clear why this institution is revered in cowboy folklore. You can stroll through a massive, immersive 13,000-square-foot replica of a turn-of-the-century Western town, soaking in the sights, sounds, and spirit of frontier life. Since its founding in 1955, the museum has cultivated an internationally respected collection, exploring every facet of cowboy heritage, rodeo culture, Native American history, and the adventures (and misadventures) of the frontier military. Judy and I were wowed by the interactive rodeo display, where we learned about Bareback Riding, Saddle Bronc Riding, Bull Riding, Tie-down Roping, Steer Wrestling, Team Roping, Barrel Racing, and Breakaway Roping. We discovered the legends behind these thrilling competitions, though I suspect we’d have trouble roping a stubborn suitcase, let alone a steer.

For any northern couple venturing here, like us, be prepared to marvel, laugh, and realize you’re more suited to fielding trivia about cowboy boots than actually wearing them in a rodeo ring!

Exploring the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum was very informative and entertaining, but one cannot visit Oklahoma City without visiting the Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum. It is an experience that leaves a profound mark on your heart. This sacred site stands as a powerful tribute to the 168 lives lost, the survivors, and the courageous rescuers affected by the bombing of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building on April 19, 1995. The grounds themselves are deeply emotional—spanning three city blocks, every element is designed to evoke remembrance and resilience. Among the most moving features are the

Oklahoma City National Memorial 168 Bronze Chairs

Field of Empty Chairs: 168 engraved bronze chairs arranged in nine rows for each floor of the building, and nineteen smaller chairs representing the children whose lives were tragically cut short, mostly from the daycare center. Standing in front of these tiny chairs, you can't help but be overwhelmed by the enormity of the loss and the innocence forever stolen. The Survivor Wall lists those who endured the attack, while the Survivor Tree, an American elm that withstood the blast, symbolizes hope and renewal. Framing the memorial, the Gates of Time are inscribed with "9:01" and "9:03," marking the moments before and after the tragedy, with a reflecting pool signifying the actual explosion at 9:02 a.m. The Memorial & Museum is not just a reminder of history, but a place for reflection on what real domestic

terrorism looks like. Unlike recent rhetoric—where President Trump's administration labeled ICE protesters as “domestic terrorists”, this site marks the true horror and consequences of domestic terrorism. The Oklahoma City bombing was a devastating act, and the memorial ensures we never forget the difference between protest and genuine terror. The emotional weight of the grounds, especially the nineteen smaller chairs, makes clear the impact of that day and honors all those who suffered, reminding us of both the fragility and strength of our communities.

Jillian, Steven & Judy at Roxy's in the Plaza District 

We simply couldn’t leave Oklahoma City without immersing ourselves in the flavors and energy of the Plaza District. This lively, rejuvenated neighborhood, bursting with local art galleries, quirky shops, creative restaurants, and eye-catching murals, set the perfect stage for our late afternoon food tour, which felt more like a progressive dinner and entertainment extravaganza. Guided by Jill, a charismatic graduate student, we kicked off our culinary adventure at the Margarita Garden (Guatemalan), savoring Carne Asada Tacos packed with vibrant, authentic flavors. Next, we headed to New State Burgers & Spirits for what might just be the best burgers we’ve ever tasted. The tour was expertly organized, weaving us through several more delicious stops that could fill an entire blog post on their own. We capped off the evening with homemade ice cream at Roxy’s, followed by refreshingly fruity drinks at the Up Down Bar & Game Arcade. The Plaza District’s infectious energy and the seamless flow of the tour made for a memorable finale to our Oklahoma City stay, leaving us thoroughly satisfied and delightfully entertained. 

Reflecting on our whirlwind journey through Oklahoma City, it’s clear this “Modern Frontier” delivers a rich tapestry of experiences that defy expectations for a city so often underestimated by travelers. From the vast, sun-kissed plains and bustling cattle markets to the vibrant arts scene and mouthwatering food adventures, OKC surprised us at every turn. The profound visit to the Oklahoma City National Memorial reminded us of the city’s resilience and the enduring spirit of its people—a sobering monument that left us humbled and grateful for life’s simple joys. Yet, as we navigated lively districts, sampled decadent burgers, and failed spectacularly at roping anything more stubborn than our own luggage, we found ourselves laughing, learning, and falling for OKC’s unique charm. No matter how many times you tip your hat or polish your boots, it’s the warmth and humor of this city that truly lasso your heart. And so, we close another chapter, lighter in spirit and richer in memory, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Spray-Painted Cadillacs to Canyon Sunsets: A Week of Adventures in Amarillo, Texas.

We waved goodbye to Santa Fe, New Mexico, and hit the eastbound lanes of Interstate 40, a highway that doesn’t just connect towns, but also rubs shoulders with the legendary Route 66. Driving this stretch feels a bit like time travel, as I-40’s shiny asphalt parallels the storied “Mother Road,” echoing tales of road-tripping adventurers and the occasional lost tourist. Before long, Amarillo appeared on the horizon, sitting squarely in the heart of the Texas Panhandle. Sure, Amarillo might not make anyone’s top ten vacation list, but after five previous stops and with Texas being, well, Texas-sized, our choices were limited unless we fancied driving until our next oil change. Turns out, Amarillo is anything but a tumbleweed town, it’s the busiest city around, serving up a big dose of classic western charm and some seriously quirky roadside attractions (Cadillac Ranch, anyone?). Judy, our trip planner extraordinaire, found enough things to do that we had to double-check we were staying a week, including hiking routes and offbeat local gems. So, when we cruised into Amarillo, we were ready for adventure, and maybe a photo op or two with spray-painted cars. Amarillo just might surprise us, as we discover its eccentric detours together.

Amarillo, once a star on the old Route 66, has truly mastered the art of the “kitschy” roadside attraction—and we’re here for it. We’ve clocked plenty of miles for the likes of Paul Bunyan statues and wild mosaics like those at Prairie Moon Sculpture Gardens. You know the type: gloriously tacky or sentimental sights designed for pure fun with a dash of nostalgia or irony. Call it cheap, eccentric, or just plain odd, but Amarillo, we see you—and we’re all in for the kitsch. One full day, five unforgettable oddities.

Many of the sideshow stops were the creation of one Stanley Marsh 3. He was an eccentric Amarillo businessman, artist, and philanthropist with a passion for oddities and unconventional art. Marsh, a wealthy oil heir, created roadside attractions that intrigue and baffle visitors and locals alike. His most famous works, Cadillac Ranch and the Floating Mesa, are legendary, and were the first two attractions we visited.

Cadillac Ranch

• Cadillac Ranch is a famous, interactive public art installation created in 1974 along the historic Route 66. It features ten Cadillac cars buried nose-first in a field. Visitors are encouraged to bring spray paint to graffiti the cars, creating ever-changing, colorful art.

• The Floating Mesa is a site-specific art installation that uses a 384-foot long,

  

  Floating Mesa

  white-painted metal wall around a plateau's edge to create the illusion that its top is hovering. Unfortunately, since Stanley Marsh’s death over 10 years ago the exhibit has fallen into disrepair and doesn’t capture the illusion anymore.

• 2^nd Amendment Cowboy / Muffler Man was made by Glenn Goode and

  

  2nd Amendment Cowboy

  originally stood in front of his son’s store in Sanger, TX. Moved and restored in 2014, to Hope Road, this 22-foot-tall fiberglass painted statue got its nickname by being damaged from shootings and bullet holes. Mr. Goode repaired all the damage and restored it to where it stands today with rifles and nearby classic cars.

 

• Ozymandias of the Plains, aka “Giant Legs of Amarillo”

  

  Ozymandias (Giant Legs of Amarillo)

  are 20-foot-tall public art sculptures commissioned in 1997 by Mr. Stanley Marsh 3 and created by local artist Lightnin’ McDuff.  Sitting just off I-27 they are a whimsical, graffitied tribute to the Percy Bysshe Shelley poem about the vanity of ancient Egyptian Pharaoh Ramesses.

• Slug Bug Ranch is an interactive roadside art installation along Route 66,

  

  Slug Bug Ranch

  featuring partially buried Volkswagen Beetles and limousines that visitors are invited to spray paint. In 2024, the installation was relocated to the Big Bend RV Ranch, offering a contemporary interpretation of the older Cadillac Ranch exhibit. 

• The Big Texan Steak Ranch & Brewery is an iconic Route 66 experience, and offers a fun atmosphere with good beer, and the famous 72 oz steak challenge. Considered a novelty rather than a top-tier culinary destination, we chose to have lunch here and soak up the atmosphere.

Big Texan Steak Ranch

All of this, just a quick drive from our RV campsite on the city’s edge. Who knew that after one whirlwind stop, snapping selfies with five dazzling oddities, we’d come dangerously close to earning honorary degrees in kitschy roadside art.

Lighthouse Trail, Palo Duro Canyon State Park

When you think of the Texas Plains, canyons may not be the first image that comes to mind. Yet, just 30 miles southwest of Amarillo lies Palo Duro Canyon State Park, often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Texas”—and with good reason. As the nation’s second-largest canyon, Palo Duro boasts dramatic 800-foot-deep chasms, vibrant geological layers, and a wealth of hiking and biking trails that weave through its storied landscape. During our visit, we tackled the popular 5.8-mile Lighthouse Trail, which leads adventurers to a striking 310-foot rock formation. Along the way, we were treated to breathtaking canyon panoramas and remarkable natural sculptures, certainly not your average walk in the woods.

1963 Cadillac Coupe Deville @ Bill's Route 66 Backyard Classics

If you’re craving a classic museum experience, Amarillo delivers with Bill’s Backyard Classics—a true haven for American muscle car enthusiasts and collectors. This remarkable museum, curated by Bill and Linda Pratt, showcases more than 100 meticulously restored vintage vehicles and legendary muscle cars, including pristine examples like Cadillac models from the 1940s through the 1960s, Crown Victorias, Pontiac Catalinas, Oldsmobile Starfires, and Oldsmobile Holidays. Every car is maintained in impeccable running condition, with many started weekly to keep their engines alive and roaring. The collection is rooted in the Pratts’ passion for automotive history and Americana, offering visitors a nostalgic journey through decades of iconic American craftsmanship.

Maybe burning rubber isn’t your speed, and geology makes you yawn, so you’re more of a naturalist at heart! For a delightful change of pace, we spent an afternoon strolling the charming Amarillo Zoo. Tucked away in Thompson Park, this compact 15-acre gem features over 60 species, giving us a chance to stretch our legs and enjoy a leisurely two-hour wander, with animals out and about soaking up the sunshine right along with us. The zoo may be small, but its friendly layout and visible critters made for a surprisingly engaging visit on a lovely, bright afternoon. And hey, if animals just don’t spark your interest, Amarillo’s Air and Space Museum is always ready to launch your imagination in a whole new direction!

Judy in the co-pilot seat of a Douglas DC-3,

Our stop at the Texas Air & Space Museum was anything but ordinary, especially once Judy started her runway-worthy photo shoot. She struck a pose atop the wing of the Bearcat Reno Racer, channeling a mix of Amelia Earhart and Hollywood starlet. Inside the Douglas DC-3, Judy made herself comfortable in the co-pilot’s seat, grinning as if ready to radio the control tower for takeoff. The museum’s friendly guides were delighted to share aviation tales. If there had been an award for Most Photogenic Aviator, Judy would have taken it home—wings and all.

Amarillo, with its tapestry of offbeat artistry and genuine Texan spirit, reveals itself as a city that delights in defying expectations. Our days here brimmed with discovery—each whimsical roadside marvel, storied canyon, and immersive museum affirmed that this is a place where the ordinary is continuously transformed into the extraordinary. It is, indeed, possible to fill a week with wonder here, and still feel as though you’ve only scratched the surface. As our wheels once again meet the eastbound lanes of Interstate 40 and the echoes of historic Route 66, anticipation builds for the chapters yet unwritten, appointments await, and the untraveled promise of Oklahoma beckons us onward. In both travel and life, it is frequently the unforeseen diversions and less-visited places that create enduring impressions in our minds, as we tell … the Rest of the Story.

Judy atop the wing of the Bearcat Reno Racer

Santa Fe Seduction: Artful Adventures, Cultural Surprises, & Stories That Steal Your Heart.

We’re headed east. That’s right—after a long stretch, our compass is finally pointed toward home. As we reach roughly two-thirds of the way through our grand Southwestern US adventure, the realization hits: We’re open road veterans now. Over the past two and a half years, the RV has been our mobile fortress, and we’ve embraced the nomadic life with gusto. Our journey has led us up mountain passes in the Rockies, along the winding Mississippi, and into the backroads of New Brunswick. We’ve set up camp at more than 70 different spots and wandered through over 50 cities across the US and Canada. The memories? They span Old Quebec’s storybook streets, the pulsing heart of Nashville’s music, the smoky flavors of Kansas City barbecue, and the spicy soul of Lafayette’s cajun kitchens. Our mental passport is stamped with cities brimming with history, charisma, and the occasional oddball roadside marvel.

Adobe Building w/ String of Dried Chilies, Downtown 

After all these adventures, it’s not easy for a city to steal our hearts. But then came Santa Fe, New Mexico—“The City Different.” Santa Fe didn’t just get a pin on our map; it vaulted to our “Best Of” list, and here’s why. First, the city’s strict zoning rules mean everything—cafés, galleries, inns—sticks to the low-slung Pueblo and Territorial styles. No looming high-rises: just sun-soaked plazas and courtyards that feel as expansive and warm as a Georgia O’Keeffe canvas. Second, Santa Fe’s history is as deep as it gets in North America. The oldest state capital in the US, it’s layered atop Tewa Pueblo villages and has flown Spanish, Mexican, and US flags, making it one of the oldest continuously governed cities around. Third? Art, art, and more art. With more than 250 galleries, Santa Fe boasts status as the nation’s third-largest art market and the honor of being a UNESCO “Creative City.” Creativity radiates from every adobe wall and turquoise window—Native, Spanish, and contemporary influences aren’t just seen, they’re felt, especially along Canyon Road and in the lively plazas. So, as our list of favorite cities grows, we find ourselves making space at the top for Santa Fe. Sorry, Austin and Quebec—there’s a new contender in town. Here are some of our favorite Santa Fe adventures.

Our adventure in Santa Fe began at the remarkable New Mexico History Museum, seamlessly connected to the iconic Palace of the Governors. Like many state capitals we’ve explored during our RV travels, Santa Fe offers a rich tapestry of over 500 years of regional history. The museum’s interactive exhibits guided us through the ages, from indigenous cultures and Spanish settlement to the city’s vibrant present. Upstairs, we stumbled upon something truly extraordinary: an immersive display dedicated to Zozobra.

Zozobra Display at NM History Museum

If you’re unfamiliar, Zozobra, or “Old Man Gloom”, is a towering 50-foot marionette that’s burned every year in Santa Fe just before Labor Day. Created in 1924 by artist Will Shuster, Zozobra represents the anxieties and troubles of the community. The annual burning is a dramatic ritual where locals and visitors alike symbolically consign their worries to the flames, making space for renewal and hope. The museum’s presentation brought this tradition to life with vivid storytelling and creative exhibits. What truly sets the New Mexico History Museum apart is its integration with the Palace of the Governors, America’s oldest continuously occupied public building, dating to 1610. Unlike typical museums, this institution stands at the crossroads of history, uniting centuries of Spanish, Mexican, and American stories under one adobe roof. The blend of cutting-edge exhibits with the living legacy of the Palace, right on the Santa Fe Plaza, made for a memorable and meaningful first day in the city.

Palace of the Governors, New Mexico History Museum

We spent two days exploring Santa Fe’s Museum Hill, an elevated area that hosts four prominent museums: the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, the Museum of International Folk Art, and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. With its expansive views, peaceful environment, and impressive architecture, Museum Hill is truly a unique destination for cultural exploration. Even though we dedicated two days, it wasn’t nearly enough time to experience everything offered here. Ultimately, we had to make some difficult decisions and chose to focus our attention on two outstanding museums.

• Museum of International Folk Art:

  

  Kukuli Velarde's Terracote Mixed Media - Kinda Creepy

  Our exploration began in this world-renowned museum, which boasts the largest collection of folk art anywhere. We spent time in the Bartlett Wing, which houses the museum’s core collection and offers a sweeping introduction to the diversity of folk traditions. One highlight was the iNgqikithi yokuPhica / Weaving Meanings: Telephone Wire Art from South Africa exhibit. This vibrant presentation traced the evolution of telephone wire weaving from its origins to today’s colorful, recycled creations, featuring 247 pieces that showcased both tradition and innovation.

Telephone Wire Weaving, Museum of International Folk Art

• Museum of Indian Arts & Culture:

  

  Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

  Next, we immersed ourselves in the rich heritage preserved at MIAC, an institution dedicated to Southwestern Native American cultures. The museum’s collections of pottery and textiles particularly stood out—each piece a testament to the artistry, skill, and history of the region’s Indigenous peoples. The carefully curated exhibits not only preserve these traditions but also highlight the creativity and resilience of Native communities.

Around the midpoint of our time in Santa Fe, we had some guests. No, strangers didn’t randomly appear at our camper door—quite the opposite! Our visitors, Susan and Wayne, are family from California whom we invited in advance. Since we’d traveled so far west, they generously flew out to Santa Fe to spend a long weekend with us, filled with various activities.

With our guests in town, we wanted to make their Santa Fe visit memorable. Susan’s top request was the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum—a perfect choice, given O’Keeffe’s deep connection to the region. We gladly joined her at this celebrated spot, where thoughtfully arranged exhibits and personal artifacts offered a clear window into the artist’s life. Hundreds of drawings and paintings, including late works from when her eyesight was fading, captured O’Keeffe’s vision and spirit. By the end, we understood why her art and the landscape of New Mexico are so often spoken in the same breath.

Working Glass @ Prairie Dog Glass

Exploring Santa Fe's art scene is inspiring, but actually making our own art took things to another level. Judy found the perfect hands-on adventure—a glassblowing session at Prairie Dog Glass. All four of us worked alongside expert instructors to craft custom drinking glasses, getting an up-close look at the creative process. Like on the show Blown Away, our pieces needed time in the annealer, so I picked them up the next day. It was a fun and memorable experience. 

Saturday was all about the walking tours as Wayne & Susan joined us on back– to– back tours of Santa Fe.

• Our day began with a brisk, early morning walking history tour led by Tom, a Santa Fe native with five generations of roots in the city.

  

   Guide Tom w/ Judy and Adobe Brick

  Tom’s deep knowledge brought Santa Fe’s 400-year story to life as he guided us through the historic Plaza, Cathedral Park, and along Palace Avenue, highlighting every landmark with fascinating insights. From demonstrating the weight of authentic adobe blocks to sharing local legends, Tom seemed to know everything about Santa Fe. It was the perfect introduction to the city, a truly memorable first tour.

• Following lunch, we embarked on a dedicated "Chocolate Tasting Tour,"
  
  offering an immersive glimpse into the city's rich history with cacao. We traced chocolate's journey from its origins as ancient Mesoamerican medicinal elixirs to contemporary artisanal masterpieces, tasting treats at the family-owned “Chocolate En La Plaza” and enjoying liquid chocolate at “Kakawa Chocolate.” The afternoon was especially delightful and delicious.
  
  

To make the most of Susan and Wayne's final day, we headed to Albuquerque for a trio of memorable experiences. We kicked things off with lunch at the Indian Pueblo Kitchen, enjoying authentic Pueblo flavors and warm hospitality—a perfect introduction to the area's vibrant culture.

Wayne, Susan, Judy, Steven @ Petroglyph National Monument 

Next, we explored the sun-drenched trails at Petroglyph National Monument, where ancient images carved into basalt boulders connected us to the region’s deep history and stunning landscape. For a nostalgic finale, we stopped at the 66 Diner on Central Ave, soaking up the retro atmosphere, neon lights, and walls lined with PEZ dispensers and classic memorabilia. The milkshakes—served with their iconic "overspill" in chilled metal canisters—were the perfect treat as we reminisced together. With each experience, we made lasting memories before saying goodbye and sending Susan and Wayne off on their journey home.

After saying goodbye to them at the airport, we started getting the RV ready, knowing our time in Santa Fe was also at an end. Sharing this lively city with family made our experiences richer and more memorable. From exploring world-class museums and savoring local flavors to historic walks and hands-on art, we packed our visit with highlights. Our long weekend together brought both discovery and laughter, deepening our appreciation for Santa Fe’s unique spirit. The city’s vibrant culture, warm community, and unforgettable adventures left their mark. Now, grateful for these memories, we roll on, making memories by the mile and sharing them with you as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Wayne, Steven, Judy, Susan "Toasting" Using Our New Hand-Blown Glassware