Echoes Across the Desert: Journey & Discovery in Big Bend National Park.

As a seasoned RV traveler and storyteller, I’ve explored countless corners of America, but few places have left an imprint on me quite like Big Bend National Park. Our latest journey took us deep into southern west Texas, where the vastness of the Chihuahuan Desert astounded us; its scale stretches across three states and thousands of miles into Mexico. Driving through, we were constantly reminded of how remote and unspoiled this land remains, with dramatic topography ranging from the Chisos Mountains soaring nearly 8,000 feet into the sky to the Rio Grande at just 1,800 feet above sea level. Rugged canyons, rocky terrain, and faulted mountains define every vista, and the sense of isolation is profound. The few surrounding towns—like Terlingua, Study Butte, and Marathon—are tiny, offering just the bare essentials. During our stay, we visited the ghost town of Terlingua on a cold, cloudy day and spent several days hiking moderate trails throughout Big Bend, reveling in the stark beauty and solitude. These experiences deepened our appreciation for both the landscape and the resilience needed to thrive in this rugged corner of Texas.

Entrance to Big Bend National Park

Big Bend is known for its blazing summer heat, often soaring well above 100 degrees, which made our mid-January visit seem like a smart escape from the extreme summer temperature. Ironically, instead of the sun-drenched days we expected, we were met with a string of cold temperatures, cloudy skies, and even rain—conditions that felt completely out of place for a region that typically receives less than 10 inches of precipitation a year. The desert’s reputation for dryness and relentless sun was flipped on its head during our stay, and the weather almost seemed like nature’s joke. Our campsite was just three miles from the national park entrance. Inside the park there are over 100 miles of scenic paved roads providing extensive access to both desert and mountain landscapes. 

Day 1

Rio Grande Nature Trail & the Rio Grande River

On our first day, we traveled 26 miles into the park, passing the Chisos Mountains en route to Panther Junction Visitor Center. As the principal visitor center in the park, it provides comprehensive information, permits, and orientation for guests. The facility features exhibits detailing both the natural and cultural history of the Chihuahuan Desert, a 20-minute informational video outlining the biodiversity of the park, as well as an extensive three-dimensional topographic map of the park. Park rangers frequently utilize this map to assist visitors with identifying hiking trails, the locations of the other four visitor centers, off-road scenic drives, and recommended camping sites.

Rio Grande River at the "Bosque"

After familiarizing ourselves with the park at the visitors' center, we drove south to the Rio Grande Village Visitor Center. We took the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, a short and easy walk that proved surprisingly memorable. The river made a sweeping curve, nearly surrounding us on three sides and revealing the signature bend for which the park is named. Across the water, the pale cliffs of the Sierra del Carmen Mountains anchored the horizon and hinted at Boquillas Canyon’s hidden depths. What captured our attention most was the lush greenery lining the riverbanks—a vibrant stretch called the bosque. Towering cottonwoods and willows thrived here, with stands of giant reeds forming dense thickets. The air was humid, alive with the scent of vegetation and the calls of hidden birds, a stark contrast to the parched desert just beyond the river’s reach.

 Day 4

Despite a stretch of less-than-ideal weather between our initial outing in Big Bend and later explorations, we seized the opportunity on a partially overcast day to hike the Mule Ears Spring Trail, optimistic that the skies might clear and the sunshine would eventually warm

Mule Ears Spring Trail w/ Mules Ear Rock Formation

us. This trail, situated in the southwestern corner of the park, lies 20 miles along the spectacular 31-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive—a route renowned for its dramatic and diverse scenery. We trekked along, taking in sweeping vistas and the iconic Mule Ears rock formation, until we reached the spring, a petite riparian oasis bubbling up from the desert. From there, we extended our walk for about a mile on the Smokey Creek Trail, before pausing for a picnic lunch with the stunning rock formations as our backdrop. Altogether, we covered just under five miles on moderately challenging desert terrain, completing the round trip, including lunch, in about two and a half hours. Getting out and moving in such a dynamic, ever-changing landscape isn’t just exercise, it’s a privilege, and a powerful reminder of how nature can invigorate both body and spirit.

 Day 5

As the weather steadily improved, we set our sights on hiking in the renowned Chisos

On the Window Trail in the Chisos Mountains

Mountains, which rise dramatically from the Chihuahuan Desert plain. These mountains form a striking "sky island" ecosystem—an elevated, forested sanctuary above 7,800 feet that offers cool respite from the desert’s aridity. For this adventure, we chose the legendary Window Trail, often celebrated as one of Big Bend’s most spectacular and “must-experience” hikes. The trail spans 4.5 miles, winding through a volcanic basin and leading to a breathtakingly narrow pour-off that frames panoramic vistas of the desert beyond. The landscape along the way is truly remarkable, with terrain that continually transforms, keeping every step fresh and exciting. At the trail’s dramatic terminus, the sheer rock formations plunge a thousand feet into the basin below, creating an awe-inspiring natural window that perfectly captures the wild grandeur of the park. Standing at the edge, you can feel the dizzying drop beneath your feet and marvel at the sculpted stone walls that tower overhead. The uphill return trek is challenging, rewarding hikers with new perspectives of the striking geology and the vastness of the Chisos Basin as you climb back toward the trailhead.

At the "Window" in the Chisos Mountain

Terlingua Ghost Town Jail

Judy and I have travelled enough to recognize the subtle distinction between merely visiting a town or area and truly getting to know its character. As an example, on a cold and gray day in Terlingua, we set out to discover the town’s so-called ghost tour—a journey less about spine-chilling haunts and more about the lingering spirit of history. The center of town revealed a striking mural of Judy the Burro Lady; her image painted boldly on the side of a weathered building. With a laugh, I convinced my wife Judy to pose in front of it, snapping a photo that, at the time, felt like a lighthearted souvenir. Later, our wandering took us to the old cemetery, a resting place woven into the fabric of Terlingua’s past. Among the weathered headstones and handmade decorations, one grave caught my eye—adorned with tokens and the unmistakable name of Judy the Burro Lady. I stood there, oddly moved, realizing that the character from the mural was real, her story embedded in the desert dust at my feet. The playful photograph we’d taken suddenly gained weight, becoming a bridge between the town’s living quirkiness and its quiet, storied past. The story took on new depth when, following a local’s advice, we ventured to the Boat House,

 a gathering spot more bar than restaurant, its warmth amplified by a patchwork of food trucks just out back. The bar was lively but intimate, and over a casual meal and a couple of drinks, we struck up a conversation with the bartender, a Terlingua resident of over twenty years. On a whim, I shared our encounter with the mural and the grave, mentioning the serendipity of my wife’s name. What followed was a revelation: Judy the Burro Lady was not just a legend but had been the bartender’s friend—her real name was Judy Magers, a woman who had called Terlingua home for her entire life. He spoke of her fiercely independent spirit, her decades spent traversing the Big Bend region atop her burro, living simply, quietly, and entirely on her own terms. She was a wanderer, easily recognized by her wide-brimmed sombrero and minimal possessions, a figure who had become a kind of local myth. Hearing her story from someone who knew her, it became clear why the town had honored her with a mural. That painting, once just a curiosity, now stood as a tribute to a true icon of Terlingua: a silent testament to the respect and affection the community held for her, and a reminder that sometimes the most extraordinary legacies are lived far from the spotlight. And that, my friends, is the difference between simply touring attractions and actually getting to know the people and the place, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Visiting Fort Clark Springs in Texas: An Oasis Amidst the Desert

Organizing a 160-day adventure to new states and destinations is exciting, especially when it comes to picking iconic places and mapping out RV camping spots that look enticing. Sometimes these choices turn out well—other times, not so much. The saying “sometimes you have to break a few eggs” captures our experience in Brackettville, TX. Essentially, planning an epic journey to unfamiliar places often means taking risks and staying at locations that are either unheard of or less desirable. So, once I had mapped out our exploration of the Gulf Coast, I next turned my sights to southwestern Texas, the Rio Grande River, and the border with Mexico. Whilst reviewing Google Maps and doing some research on my National Parks phone app, I discovered Big Bend National Park in west Texas and decided that this might be an interesting place to visit as well as a good place to escape the cold weather in January. But to get from Corpus Christi to Big Bend in one day’s travel was farther than we like to travel in one day.  An intermediary stop would be required. That is when Brackettville, TX became a destination. Interestingly enough, my first choice for an intermediate stop was a city called Del Rio, Texas. A border city that sits on the Rio Grande River across from Ciudad Acuña, Mexico. Del Rio looked to be a much more interesting place to stay. Alas, the campground that I was looking to book into, which had excellent reviews, could not accommodate our reservation. Brackettville was a reluctant second choice.

Let me see if I can use words to paint you a picture of what this western part of Texas looks like. If I were polite, I would say that the terrain and landscape is rugged and unforgiving. If I were to be honest, I’d say that the terrain and scenery is mean and ugly. The trees are stunted with oddly angled branches, set in a vast landscape of red, tan, and brown dirt and rocks. On many travel days, Judy and I have looked out the windows of the truck and marveled at the scenery. Not this trip! We were in stunned silence as we gazed at the miles of nothingness only broken up by a smattering of buttes and hills of scrub brush and rocks. Google describes the landscape around Brackettville, TX, as “a transition zone characterized by scenic, rugged terrain where the eastern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert meets the brushy South Texas Plains and the southern tip of the Hill Country. It features rolling, rocky hills, mesquite-dotted plains, and arid, open prairie”. Yeah, I think that’s also being polite.

In the latter half of the 19^th century, Brackettville was the home of a frontier army post called Fort Clark. Fort Clark Springs is now a neighborhood and community spanning 2,700 acres that was originally the site of the post. Established in 1852, the Fort served for 92 years before its decommissioning in 1946. Throughout its operational period, Fort Clark played a pivotal role as a frontier outpost, cavalry base, and training center. Notably, it hosted units such as the Buffalo Soldiers and Black Seminole Indian Scouts and functioned as a primary cavalry training ground for all U.S. Army cavalry units. Among its distinguished personnel, General George Patton was stationed at Fort Clark prior to World War II.

The selection of Brackettville, Texas, for this significant military installation was strategic.

Las Moras Spring in Historic Fort Clark

In 1852, Fort Clark represented one of the westernmost outposts of the Union, offering security along the Texas-Mexico border following Texas’s admission to the Union in 1845. Another critical factor in its establishment was the presence of a natural spring, which transformed the surrounding arid region into a viable and sustainable location for settlement and defense. Las Moras Springs, located on the grounds of Fort Clark, discharging 12–14 million gallons of water daily. The spring emerges from a fault in the limestone strata. These historic, 68°F springs feed a massive, million-gallon swimming pool, situated on Fort Clark which is now part of the Fort Clark Springs Community.

Spring Fed Million Gallon Swimming Pool, Fort Clark Springs

Judy in Massive Live Oak Tree

An oasis of rich greenery emerges from the dry, barren terrain, clustered around the spring and creek. Here, you'll find large, ancient pecan trees, towering live oaks, mulberry bushes, and sycamore, willow, and cottonwood trees. Walking through this area is fascinating, especially since, less than 1,000 feet from the water, the land quickly reverts back to the arid wasteland typical of the region. 

The history of Fort Clark Springs as a community is interesting. After the Army decommissioned the base, the area underwent substantial decline; many buildings were either demolished, repurposed for their materials, or allowed to deteriorate over time. In 1971, North American Towns of Texas acquired the land and buildings and redeveloped the former fort into a private recreation and retirement community. Today, Fort Clark Springs features restored historical buildings repurposed as residences and apartments and encompasses a designated historic district with additional single-family homes.

Our Companion for the Day, "Rudy" (aka "Escape Artist") in front of Post HQ

 Amenities within the gated community include a community center, golf course, and extensive walking trails. A former barracks was revitalized into a modest hotel, while both a campground and a full-service RV park were developed. Notably, several original elements of the Fort remain, such as the historic pool, select stables, and a museum dedicated to the site's history. Beyond residency at Fort Clark Springs, the town of Brackettville is small with very limited shopping, no public parks, and few dining options beyond Pizza joints.  Consequently, we spent most of our time exploring the trails, touring the historic district, reading informational displays, or relaxing by the pool.

As our stay at Fort Clark Springs comes to an end, it’s clear that not every RV stop will be a winner. Even though Brackettville wasn’t our top choice, we found value in its history and quiet moments by the spring. Within several days we had explored most of the historic district, so our shorter than average stay here turned out to be convenient. We’re grateful for the opportunity to explore somewhere off the beaten path, even when it wasn’t exactly what we had envisioned. Every stop on our journey adds a unique piece to our story, whether it’s a highlight or just a footnote. With gratitude for these experiences, we’re ready to hit the road and see where adventure takes us, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Heading Back to the Gulf Coast: A Visit to Corpus Christi, Texas

We are a family who likes to dig our toes in the sand. If you grow up in Massachusetts, chances are you’ve spent some time on a beach, someplace. Heading to the beach was always something we did with the kids, and still to this day, on our RV travels, often seem to turn up on a beach. To be able to follow the Gulf Coast, hopping from one beachside city to another is an amazing opportunity, even if it means sweeping additional sand out of the RV. When we left you last, we were landlocked and we were basking in the peculiar charm of Austin, that delightfully oddball capitol city of Texas. Of course, just when you start figuring out which food truck sells the best tacos or which Texas B-B-Q joint has the best sauce, it’s time to pack up and say goodbye to your familiar campsite and hit the road, because, apparently, our RV has a travel quota to meet. So, for the first time ever, we were a family of four traveling together in the RV, pulling in its slides, piling into the truck, and heading south to the Gulf Coast. Back to the beach. Our next destination being Corpus Christi, Texas, just 150 miles north of the Mexico border. Our campsite was in the city of Rockport, 30 miles north of Corpus Christi, but an easy drive to a lovely city on the water.

Ever since I dreamed up this retirement RV lifestyle, I have always said that the kids can come and visit, but said visitation is limited to no more than seven days at a time. The thought being, “Hey we love you & we’re glad to see you, but don’t outstay your welcome; it’s not personal, but it’s time for you to leave”. And I think both children understand, are thankful for the time and experiences, but also look forward to leaving us and continuing with their lives.

Keeping in mind that the kids would only be with us in Corpus Christi for a few days, we chose to book a city tour as soon as we arrived. This time, we opted for a comfortable van ride with

Steven, Judy, Josh, Susan, & Morgan

"Enjoy Corpus Christi Tours". Our guides, Susan and Rene—a husband-and-wife duo specializing in sightseeing—led us on a relaxed two-hour journey through the city while sharing highlights from Corpus Christi’s 170-year history. As we traveled, Susan pointed out various restaurants, important historical spots, and an impressive variety of murals decorating many buildings. What stood out most was the city’s strong dedication to public art, which enhances the downtown area and celebrates both coastal and Chicano/Tejano culture. Events like the annual Mural Fest further these efforts, establishing Corpus Christi as a vibrant arts destination where local artists express the city’s unique identity.

Following our city tour, we enjoyed lunch at a local restaurant recommended by Rene

Walking Along the Corpus Christi Jetties 

& Susan. Afterward, we took a leisurely stroll along the shoreline and the impressive seawall that safeguards the downtown area from storms. Like many other cities on the Gulf Coast, Corpus Christi has endured the devastating impact of hurricanes, prompting the construction of a protective seawall in 1941. Rising 14 feet high, the seawall’s development added enough land to create Shoreline Boulevard, which now runs parallel to the bayfront and has fostered additional growth in the area. We also explored the rock jetties that shield the harbor, many of which are open for walking. We ended our day in Corpus Christi with a peaceful walk along one of these jetties before returning to the camper for our final dinner together. It was a memorable experience, leaving us grateful for the moments shared and the beauty we discovered along the Texas coast.

Saying Goodbye at the Airport

Jade Statue at Texas State Museum of Asian Cultures

After dropping the children off at the airport, we headed back to downtown Corpus Christi to visit The Texas State Museum of Asian Cultures. This museum, though modest in size, centers around a collection of art, artifacts, and costumes curated by its founder, Billie Trimble Chandler. Ms. Chandler, an educator with nearly twenty years of experience living and teaching in Japan, assembled an extensive assortment of Japanese art, including Hakata dolls, Ikebana flower arrangements, and various historical artifacts. While the museum features several noteworthy pieces, the layout could benefit from improvement, as the exhibits appear somewhat fragmented and challenging to navigate. I didn’t find this museum especially interesting, so I was relieved that their admission fee was complimentary at the time we went.

Following our exploration of Corpus Christi's historical and artistic 

highlights, we ventured out to appreciate the scenic wonders of the Gulf Coast. The weather conditions were favorable, allowing us to plan a visit to Malaquite Beach, located 35 miles south of Corpus Christi on Padre Island National Seashore. This destination offers excellent facilities and pristine, powdery white sand. We walked along the beach for several miles with only seagulls as companions and found the scenery to be exceptionally impressive. Enjoying the warmth of the sun, the tranquil sound of the waves, and the soft sand in January contributed to a truly unique and memorable experience.

Our journey along the Texas Gulf Coast has been a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation, offering us countless opportunities to explore new places and create lasting memories. Each stop, from the vibrant city streets of Corpus Christi to the weird and wonderful city of Austin, reminded us of the simple joys found in fresh experiences and shared moments. Traveling as a family for the last two stops has made us appreciate the luxury of time—time to wander, to learn, and to savor the beauty that surrounds us. We’re off next to the south Texas Brush County, a town called Brackettville, which borders on the vast Chihuahuan Desert. And so, with sand still clinging to our toes and hearts full of gratitude, we continue onward, as we tell… the Rest of the Story. 

The Weird & the Wonderful: Visiting the Bustling, Culturally-Rich City of Austin, TX.

Leaving Galveston meant crossing the two-mile-long Galveston Causeway Bridge, and as we approached the causeway terminus in Texas City, I was truly astonished by the vast network of gas and oil infrastructure that permeates the area in and around Galveston Bay. The intricate array of refineries and industrial facilities is a testament to the region's pivotal role in energy production. Our destination was Austin, TX, the state’s capital. We lucked out with a fantastic campsite on the eastern edge of Austin, just 9 miles from downtown, a perfect home base for our adventures. Even better, we had some VIP visitors for the second half of our stay: both of our adult children flew down and joined us in the camper. Yes, you read that right! Four full-sized adults, all packed into one 320-square-foot camper. We basically formed our own pop-up reality show, “Survivor: Family Edition.” Morgan “hoseyed” the pull-out sofa in the bunkroom and Josh was more than happy to sleep in the loft area. Let’s just say, if you ever want to test your loved ones’ patience, try living together in a space smaller than most walk-in closets. Despite the tight squeeze, we had a blast eating Texas barbeque and discovering the city, making memories that will last a lifetime.

Judy and I arrived in Austin a few days ahead of the kids, giving us some time to explore early and get familiar with the area. Our first adventure was a walking food tour through downtown Austin, particularly around Congress Street. It was there that I tried Texas Barbeque Smoked Brisket for the first time—wow, I can't believe what I'd been missing! We kicked things off at the well-known Cooper's Pit Bar-B-Que, where we learned about proper Bar-B-Que etiquette. Here are a few tips I picked up:

JuiceLand, on Austin Food Tour

1. The food is usually served on a legal-size piece of wax paper. 
2. Serving brisket "wet" refers to slices taken from the point muscle of the brisket and is characterized by intense marbling and tenderness.
3. Bread is served on the side along with hot peppers, onions, beans and a mix of different sauces.

Most of the remaining stops on our food tour focused on tacos, with our guide sharing insights into how Tex-Mex cuisine and Austin's taco trucks evolved. We tried all-natural tacos from Veracruz, which started as a food truck, and sipped on a “Honey Berry Smoothie” at Juiceland, another local favorite. Our last eating stop was in the “Fareground” food court where we tried beef picadillo empanadas, with an avocado cream sauce, followed by a caramel filled churro. Can you say “yum”? The tour was fantastic, Judy and I sampled dishes we wouldn’t typically consider. Texas Bar-B-Que was a highlight - we ate it three times in Austin, including a visit with the kids to Terry Black's Barbecue.

"Old Baldy" 

Next on our list of things to do was stop at McKinney Falls State Park. A 700-acre urban park, in Austin with a topography that is unlike anything we have ever seen before. The limestone rock formations have a moon crater-like appearance caused by the flow of Onion Creek over, around, and through the ancient rock. The exposed limestone covers at least two football fields worth of space, and Onion Creek is still flowing through and over the rock, creating funnels and a swimming hole. There were numerous hiking trails, and we took the 3½ -mile Homestead Trail. Along the way we met "Baldy", a towering Bald Cypress tree believed to be well over 500 years old. The ecosystem around Onion Creek was intriguing and treacherous as Judy found out firsthand. 

OUCH, those Cacti are Sharp!

Trish & Judy at Rudy's Country Store & B-B-Q 

One incredible advantage of our RV lifestyle is the way it brings unexpected reunions and serendipitous encounters. Thanks to our travels, Judy had the chance to reconnect with Trish, a high school classmate she hadn't seen in over 40 years; a meeting that never would have happened if not for our journey taking us across the Southwestern United States. Once again, Texas Bar-B-Que was selected for the meal, as Trish hosted us at Rudy’s “Country Store” & Bar-B-Q. The meal was delightful, and we lingered at the table, chatting and reminiscing about their high school days, and sharing updates about fellow classmates. After all that Texas Bar-B-Que and laughter, we left Rudy’s with enough stories and sauce stains to prove that nostalgia is best served well done.

 And then the kids flew into town, and the activity level went into overdrive:

Tau Ceti Mural, Downtown Austin

The four of us went on a three-hour electric bike tour around Austin, covering 12 miles and exploring both the city and its neighboring areas. Riding the e-bikes was simple and made for an easygoing journey as we wound our way through Zilker Park and along Lady Bird Lake, eventually stopping at the well-known Congress Bridge, where Mexican free-tailed bats make their summer home. Our route took us through Austin’s Bouldin Creek and Zilker neighborhoods Then we crossed the Colorado River for a scenic ride through downtown Austin.

Zilker Metropolitan Park overlooking Lady Bird Lake

It was on our bicycle tour of the Bouldin Creek neighborhood that we discovered our next “off the beaten path” adventure and house tour. But before I start, I think a bit of background is required. The Bouldin Creek neighborhood developed as an early Austin suburb with modest homes. In the last 20 years, the neighborhood has transformed into a highly desirable, eclectic urban neighborhood, known for its historic bungalows, with a vibrant mix of architectural styles and art. 

Our tour route had us passing million-dollar contemporary homes, ramshackle bungalows 

Octopus House, Bouldin Creek Neighborhood

of a bygone era, and some unusual homes with interesting artistic twists. For example, we passed by a private residence that had a large pink dinosaur dressed up in Christmas garb, which is an art installation in the front yard that happens to spray people with water. I believe it's a famous piece of “Keeping Austin Weird" local art. We also passed by the “Octopus House”.  As you can see from the picture, it is a distinguished modernist residence, notable for its prominent octopus centerpiece that faces the street. A water feature, visible from outside, appears to flow beneath the foundation, complemented by other artistic elements inspired by marine landscapes.

But the pièce de résistance of our tour was Casa Neverlandia. This home left a lasting impression and was truly extraordinary and embodies the spirit of the Bouldin Creek

Mr. Talbot outside Casa Neverlandia

community. We were so gobsmacked, that after reading the explanation posted on a sign at the curb , we emailed the owner and asked to join a tour of the residence the following morning.  What is Casa Neverlandia?  It is a three-story art house and fine art studio created by artist James Edward Talbot, featuring vibrant mosaics, unique sculptures, and whimsical designs inspired by Peter Pan. It is an immersive residence where architecture blends with fine arts and sculpting, intersecting with both spiritual and mystical themes. Mr. Talbot graduated in the 70’s with a BA in Architecture and a minor in Fine Arts; he bought the house in 1979 and transformed it over decades into a personal masterpiece, with colorful plasterwork, mosaics, and unique structural additions. The property boasts a four-story treehouse in the backyard, accessible via suspension bridges and ladders, no less than seven working fire poles, and an indoor-outdoor kitchen. It incorporates sustainable elements like solar panels, greywater recycling, and no air conditioning. The house serves as a personal art gallery and studio showcasing Talbot's mixed-media work, including intricate beadwork and mosaics. The house is such a landmark in Austin that Mr. Talbot offers periodic house tours, and we were so fortunate to be able to take one. In true Austin fashion, Casa Neverlandia celebrated all things quirky, creative, and just a little bit bonkers, reminding us why this city’s “weird” reputation is so well-deserved. As we drove back to our 320-square-foot reality, we were inspired to add a little more color, a little more whimsy, and maybe just one fire pole to our lives.

Atop the Four-Story Tree House behind Casa Neverlandia Overlooking Austin

Judy, Morgan, Josh, Steven, and Artist Robert Talbot, in Front of Casa Neverlandia

Mr.Talbot in Front of Alter of Fire

Reflecting on our time in Austin, we are reminded of the profound value that family connections and shared experiences bring, especially as our children have grown and life’s chapters continue to unfold. Exploring new places together, embracing local traditions, and discovering the unexpected has enriched our journey and deepened our bonds. These adventures serve as a gentle nudge to savor each moment and cherish the laughter, stories, and memories that we create along the way. For families of any age, travel remains a wonderful way to rekindle togetherness and celebrate the enduring spirit of love and discovery. And so, with full stomachs, happy hearts, and stories we’ll never forget, we close out another chapter, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Seawalls to Sand in My Shoes: Exploring Galveston, TX

People often ask me how I pick where to travel, probably because with so many choices,

Morning coffee at site 52 on the Gulf of Mexico

it’s enough to make anyone’s head spin faster than a suitcase on an airport carousel. When I planned this adventure, my top priority was visiting Texas. Why? Well, I figured if I’m planning an epic journey, I might as well start in the state famous for doing everything bigger, right? My ambitious journey through the expansive Southwestern United States started with an important choice: deciding where in Texas to begin. I knew it had to be along the Gulf Coast, someplace where a beach was involved, because nothing says “epic journey” like sand in your shoes. After some serious Google Maps detective work, Galveston won my highly competitive title of “Best Starting Point in Texas.” We arrived in Galveston the week before Christmas, and the stop exceeded our expectations. For those unfamiliar, Galveston Island is about 30 miles long and 2-3 miles wide, a sandy barrier island that runs along the Texas coast across a two-mile wide Galveston Bay. It's a significant Gulf Coast spot, known for its beaches, history, and hurricane protection. Our campsite was magnificent. One of the top 5 spots we have stayed at to date of our over 60 spots of camping. We backed the camper right up to the beach, and every night we fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing into the seashore. That’s not to say that every day was a beach day, weather wise. But there certainly were plenty of mornings when the sun lifted itself over the Gulf and treated us to something truly memorable, making our coffee taste even better as we gazed out at the waves. 

Galveston is an oceanfront community that has faced significant challenges due to hurricanes originating from the Gulf of Mexico. The most catastrophic event occurred in September of

1900 Storm Memorial On The Seawall

1900, when a hurricane claimed approximately 8,000 lives and devastated what was then a prosperous and sophisticated port city, regarded as one of the wealthiest in the United States. This event marked the end of Galveston's Golden Era. In response, a 17-foot-tall seawall was constructed along a 3.5-mile stretch to safeguard the city against future storms. As Galveston expanded, the seawall was further extended: an additional 4 miles were added in 1927, followed by further extensions in 1963, resulting in a current length of over 10 miles. The best part is that the seawall has been transformed into an outstanding spot for recreation, bike riding, and walking. As you stroll along the seawall, you’re treated to breathtaking views of the Gulf stretching out to the horizon, with waves rolling in just steps away. People of all ages can be found jogging, rollerblading, or simply enjoying a relaxing sunset walk while taking in the fresh ocean breeze. And with our campsite situated on the west end of the island just beyond the seawall, we were able to take long walks on the beach listening to the roar of the waves rather than the drone of street traffic. It was a wonderful place to camp and enjoy the beach and the Galveston area.

In addition to strolling along the seawall or walking barefoot on the sand, we kept ourselves busy exploring other attractions around the Galveston area.

• Frequently, our initial activities are structured to deliver informative content about the region, often including guided tours led by local experts. The Galveston Historic Walking Tour exemplified this approach. We participated in a two-hour walking tour of downtown Galveston with Noelle; as the only participants, the experience was comparable to a private tour. We walked up and down streets called “The Strand”, “Mechanic Street” and “Market Street”, stopping into building like “the Tremont House” and “Shearn Moody Plaza”. Here is an interesting factoid we learned on our tour: Galveston is a major port for cruise ships, second only to the Port of Miami.

Moody Plaza & Galveston Railroad Museum

• The Galveston Railroad Museum was beautifully decorated for the “Polar Express”
  
  experience during Christmas and appeared particularly festive as we explored the exhibits. Located in historic Union Station, the museum boasts the southwest’s largest collections of restored locomotives and train stock, offering a hands-on look at railroad history through vintage trains, interactive exhibits, and model layouts. We have been to a number of train museums, but this was the first one we were able to walk through a number of restored Pullman cars. 

• The Bryan Museum is an esteemed institution dedicated to history and art, located in the restored Galveston Orphans' Home. It houses one of the world's largest collections of artifacts, documents, and artwork pertaining to Texas and the American West. Founded by JP and Mary Jon Bryan, the museum was established to provide a permanent residence for their significant collection. In 2015, they acquired the deteriorated historic building, invested substantial resources into its complete renovation, and created the museum to honor both the heritage of the American West and the legacy of the successful orphanage that previously occupied the site.

The Bryan Museum, Restored Galveston Orphans' Home

• One of our favorite experiences in Galveston was visiting the League-Kempner House.

  

  The League-Kempner House Restored Greenhouse 

  This fascinating tour showcased a historic mansion being restored to its original 1893 splendor. The house was first constructed for entrepreneur John League by renowned Galveston architect Nicholas Clayton, and it was later sold to Eliza Kempner in the 1920s. For many years, the Kempner family enjoyed the home, making only minor updates, trying to preserve its original character while adding modern amenities suited to twentieth century living. Over time, as with many grand mansions from Galveston's golden age, the property was abandoned and fell into disrepair, facing significant water issues, including leaking roofs and basement flooding. In 2021, the house was purchased by builder and developer Janie Mitcham. Originally intended for renovation and resale, Ms. Mitcham decided in 2022 to convert the property into a non-profit organization with the goal of restoring the house to its original grandeur. This remarkable restoration project stands out for the meticulous effort to preserve as much of the original structure as possible. Having had the opportunity to meet Janie Mitcham and her sister and tour the restoration process, I can attest to the exceptional dedication involved. They post videos of their renovation project to YouTube, and I look forward to observing future progress. You never know, one day we may decide to return to Galveston and revisit the League-Kempner House as a completely refurbished Galveston landmark.

Foyer of The League-Kempner House

I've begun to recognize a certain rhythm that accompanies our long journeys to corners of America we never imagined exploring. Galveston gifted us with stories and memories that will linger long after the sand has left our shoes. From the rhythmic crash of waves along the seawall to the elaborate restoration of historic mansions, this resilient island continually reveals new surprises hidden just beyond each sunset or behind an aged, weather-beaten door. With every step, we became part of the vibrant tapestry that defines Galveston, TX as truly unique. Texas’s sheer size beckons us onward, and after experiencing the charm of its coastline, we’re excited to see what awaits in our next destination: the bustling, culturally rich city of Austin. Each stop deepens our appreciation for the unexpected wonders found along the way, reminding us that adventure is often closer than we think, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Unexpected Experiences, Interesting Sights, & Amazing Tastes In Lafayette, LA.

Little did we realize when we were visiting Halifax, Nova Scotia in August of this past year, that some of the history of Halifax would be tied to our current stop in Lafayette, Louisiana. I know it’s quite a leap but bear with me whilst I try to explain. When we were in Halifax, we took a tour boat of Georges Island in the middle of Halifax Harbor.  On the tour we learned that the French had started to colonize Canada in the mid-16^th century and by 1763 had moved west down the St. Lawrence River and founded Québec. Some of the earliest settlers established farming communities in the Maritimes region of Canada, formerly called Acadia. The British arrived in 1749 and promptly colonized Halifax and its surrounding region of Nova Scotia, (as well as some parts of New Brunswick).To counter French influence in the area, the British Lieutenant-Governor rounded up the French speaking Acadians and forcibly deported some 10,000 to 12,000 people between 1755 through 1763. The deportation was called "Le Grand Dérangement” and Georges Island was the staging ground. Hundreds of Acadians starved or froze to death in the winter on the island awaiting ships for deportation. Remarkably, three thousand of those poor souls made their way to the Attakapas region and Lafayette, LA. (The Attakapas region refers to the historical territory of the Atakapa people, an Indigenous group who lived along the Gulf Coast of what is now Southeast Texas and Southwest Louisiana, from Galveston Bay to the Calcasieu River.) And thus begins the backstory of our visit to Lafayette, LA. A city with a vibrant Cajun & Creole culture, authentic food, and a lively Zydeco music scene, all due to its unique blend of French heritage and the settlement of some 3,000 Acadians from Halifax, NS.

Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist

This all comes full circle on our first full day in Lafayette, where in Judy & I found ourselves as the only two people on a historic walking tour of Lafayette, given by the most amazing tour guide, Cassie. Lafayette is a very walkable city, and the tour offered a wealth of information, local stories, and folklore. The tour began with a question regarding our knowledge of the expulsion of French Acadians by the British and their eventual settlement in Lafayette. We responded that we were very familiar with the topic, and from there, a lively exchange of information continued throughout the rest of the tour. Cassie was a local and was clearly not reading from a script; she was telling the history of “her” town and it was truly engaging.

Meeting and befriending Cassie turned out to be a fabulous stroke of good fortune, because
during the tour it was revealed that Cassie was not only a local who leads tours, but also a screenwriter and a producer of films. She has been a screenwriter for a number of years, specializing in creating stories with a Christmas theme, which always seem to be in high demand around this time of the year. A couple of her screen written films have made their way to notable streaming platforms. Further, Cassie had most recently written, and this time was also the executive producer of, a new Christmas movie, filmed locally in Lafayette, called “Honey’s Christmas Wish”.

Screenwriter & Producer Cassie at her movie Screening 

 And just like that, we found ourselves invited to the initial local screening. It’s most unbelievable that within 24 hours of our arrival, we were on the official guest list for a premiere screening at the Acadiana Center for the Arts! The theater was filled with invited guests, all excited to see the full movie for the first time, alongside the actors, director, and producers. Attending such a special event truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Confidentially, Judy and I, the two Jews in the theater, thoroughly enjoyed the film, and predict it will be well received next year on a streaming platform. 

500 yr old Bald Cypress Trees in Lake Martin

What’s a trip to southwestern Louisiana without a swamp boat tour? Frankly, it’d be a bit of a bayou bummer. (I know, I know, I can hear the groaning.) We spent a beautiful sunny morning on a swamp boat tour of Lake Martin in Breaux Bridge, LA. Lake Martin is a natural lake (once Lake la Pointe) that was enlarged and permanently flooded by building a ring levee around it. Thus, creating a distinct cypress-filled shallow waters lake, and making it a unique wetland ecosystem for birds, turtles, and gators. Upon boarding the boat, we were given the obligatory safety instructions which included the line, “if you fall out of the boat, just stand up, most of the lake is less than 4-feet deep!” We saw a blue heron, egrets, alligators, ringed map turtles, and an osprey in a Bald Cypress tree overhead.

Champagne's Cajun Swamp Tours

This immersive journey, on a slow-paced swamp boat tour through the wetlands, offered a firsthand glimpse into the natural splendor and remarkable biodiversity that define the region.

Blue Heron in Lake Martin

As we often do, we spent a day exploring other culturally significant places in the area. There is more to southwestern Louisiana than just its famous Cajun cuisine and alligators. Within 20 miles of our campsite was the historic town of St. Martinville.

Acadian National Memorial & Museum

Located along the Bayou Teche, the Acadian National Memorial and Museum is known as the "Cradle of Cajun Culture." This is where the 3,000 exiled Acadians (Cajuns) settled. The Acadian Memorial features a mural of their arrival, a wall of names, and the replica of the Deportation Cross that stands in Grand-Pré, NS, honoring the thousands who found new life in Louisiana after British expulsion from Canada. The memorial and museum tell their story of hardship, resilience, and the creation of Cajun identity, with exhibits, an eternal flame, and stories from descendants.

African American Museum

Also located in the historic center of town is the African American Museum which focuses on the local Black heritage in Louisiana. There was a population of legally restricted “free” Blacks living in the area. These families emerged through manumission (release from slavery),  self-purchase, or escape, and navigated a society increasingly defined by racialized slavery.

Evangeline Oak

The Bayou Teche runs through the middle of town, and along its banks sits a majestic Live Oak tree which is supposedly the famous meeting point of the star-crossed lovers Evangeline and Gabriel, from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous 1847 poem entitled "Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie”. An epic narrative about their separation during the British expulsion of the Acadians and Evangeline's lifelong search for her lost love, Gabriel. I’ll not spoil it here - you, the reader, can Google the poem and read for yourselves.

One last story before I close out this blog post. We got our first taste of authentic homemade Gumbo.  For a bit of background: on our first visit to Lafayette, we spent an afternoon walking along Jefferson Street in the city center when we encountered the storefront of the Craft Guild of Lafayette. With no specific plans at that moment, we decided to enter and browse through the displays of arts and crafts made from a variety of materials. After spending a few minutes exploring the store, the woman managing the establishment approached us to offer assistance and inquired as to where we were from. People often seem quite surprised when we reply, "Massachusetts." We enjoyed a pleasant conversation, and as we left the store, she mentioned a fundraiser happening on Wednesday night that would include food and raffles. Judy has an uncanny ability to absorb suggestions—especially those from locals—and immediately made note of the event. Unsurprisingly, the following Wednesday around 5:00 p.m., we found ourselves in Lafayette again, browsing crafts in the same shop, just as the traditional homemade gumbo was served with a complimentary side of potato salad.

I thoroughly enjoyed the food, while Judy found the gumbo a bit too spicy for her taste. The addition of potato salad on the side was an unexpected delight for me, adding a surprising twist to the meal. Even though Judy wasn't a fan of the gumbo's heat, we both valued the warm hospitality and the chance to connect with locals, who willingly shared their experiences and recipes. It was one of those authentic moments that made us feel welcomed into the community, and it was caught on video. Moments like these remind us why we love to travel - each encounter brings new friendships and flavors, deepening our appreciation for local culture. There’s always more to discover when you follow suggestions from kind strangers, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.