Cottonwood AZ: The Gateway to Friends, Laughs, and Legendary Arizona Escapades.

View from the Chapel of the Holy Cross, Sedona, AZ

Picture this: a jaw-dropping backdrop of vibrant red rocks and lush patches of green, with dramatic cliffs stretching toward an impossibly blue sky—and smack dab in the middle, there’s some goofball (yours truly) who somehow wandered into the frame. If you can manage to look past my “best attempt at majestic posing,” the scenery is absolutely breathtaking. This photo was snapped at the legendary Chapel of the Holy Cross, which seems to sprout straight from the crimson cliffs of Sedona, Arizona. Built high above the desert floor and nestled into the rugged red rock, the Chapel of the Holy Cross isn’t just a church, it’s a marvel of modernist architecture. Completed in 1956, inspired by the Empire State Building, this striking Roman Catholic chapel was the vision of Marguerite Brunswig Staude, a rancher and sculptor. The structure’s bold, 90-foot iron cross soars upward, perfectly integrated into the sheer rock face, creating a seamless union of human creativity and nature’s artistry. Surrounded by panoramic vistas of iconic formations like Courthouse Butte and Cathedral Rock, and overlooking sprawling juniper forests and sunlit mesas, the chapel is celebrated as a place of peace and spiritual renewal. Many visitors (myself included) leave feeling uplifted, as if the very landscape is radiating a transformative kind of awe.

Now that I’ve set the scene, let’s catch you up on the rest of our adventure. After heading north from Tucson through Phoenix, we landed in Cottonwood, AZ. While Sedona dazzles with its world-famous rock formations and luxury resorts, Cottonwood offers a more relaxed vibe, historic charm, and an easygoing pace just 28 miles from Sedona’s hustle. The real jackpot? Our friends Rachelle and Kevin were waiting for us at the campground, ready to turn our trip into an unforgettable group getaway. We laughed over rounds of cribbage, feasted together, played some golf, and packed as much exploring as we could into our week in the Verde Valley.

Let’s be honest, when you retire and hit the road in an RV, life takes on a whole new rhythm, one that’s blissfully relaxed and entirely on your own terms. Lucky for us, Kevin and Rachelle

had perfected the art of leisurely travel too, so every plan was negotiable and every snack break mandatory. Sedona was our playground for the day, and we made the most of it together: hopping on a trolley tour to gawk at the red rocks, stopping at every overlook for “just one more” photo (spoiler: there were a thousand more), and wandering in and out of quirky Main Street shops. The highlight? Scoring a spot at the front of the line when the hot Mexican restaurant, Eloté Café opened. Nothing brings out our competitive side like the promise of legendary guacamole and margaritas. By the end of the day, our camera rolls were bursting with so many pictures of the same mountain from slightly different angles that even our phones probably rolled their digital eyes. 

View from atop Airport Messa

Sure, it’s wonderful having our play date pals just a stone’s throw away, nothing beats the camaraderie and laughter of group adventures. But there’s something equally rewarding about stepping out solo and soaking up the natural beauty that surrounds us. One morning, with Judy feeling a bit under the weather, I seized the chance to explore Dead Horse Ranch State Park on my own, just outside Cottonwood. Hiking the Raptor Hill Trail that morning, I wandered across the high-desert plateau and was rewarded with sweeping 180-degree views of the Rio Verde Valley. Dead Horse Ranch State Park is a haven for outdoor lovers, boasting a network of scenic trails that offer extraordinary vistas of the valley’s unique landscape, lush greenery, and rolling hills. If you’re curious what those breathtaking views look like, watch the video!

When it comes to unforgettable group adventures, our night at the Blazin' M Ranch completely stole the show. Thanks to Judy’s top-notch activities-planning skills, we snagged an extra special treat by joining the history tour on the ranch’s quirky little train, hosted by none other than

Trying on Cowboy Hat

the legendary Jody Drake herself. Part historian, part train conductor, part grand dame of the Old West, Jody Drake wove stories that brought the ranch’s colorful past to life and got us early access to all the action. From the moment we rolled into the recreated frontier town, it was like stepping onto a movie set where every detail screamed “Wild West” adventure. Shops, a swinging-door saloon, and hands-on activities beckoned at every turn. Naturally, our first order of business was the saloon, because, let’s be honest, nothing kicks off a night of cowboy antics like a round of cocktails. With a little liquid courage in our systems, we tackled the axe throwing range. Some (like Judy) wielded the axe like seasoned lumberjacks, while others… well, let’s just say the axes had minds of their own! Fueled by laughter and maybe a second trip to the saloon, we took on bull riding (mechanical, but still!), tested our aim at the air-gun range, and tried our hand at calf roping. The promise of a BBQ rib and chicken dinner saved the day, and we feasted like ranch hands before catching our breath during the Blazin’ M’s musical comedy show, which brought down the house with toe-tapping tunes and plenty of chuckles. The Blazin’ M Ranch delivered the ultimate all-in, over-the-top Old West extravaganza. One we won’t soon forget (and probably can’t repeat without a nap first).t

Riding the Verde Canyon Railroad

It was at the Blazin’ M Ranch where we got a hot tip from the bartender about booking last-minute tickets on the Verde Canyon Railroad. The next day, Judy went into full booking mode and snagged us tickets for an afternoon train ride. We set off from Clarkdale’s century-old depot, ready for a four hour, 40 mile round-trip adventure with Rachelle and Kevin. The train’s vintage, climate-controlled cars offered plush living room-style seating, complete with bar service and a complimentary charcuterie board, making the journey as comfortable as it was scenic. We had full access to an open-air railcar, where we soaked in sweeping views of Arizona’s “other Grand Canyon”, a landscape of striking red rock cliffs, the winding Verde River, a dramatic 734-foot tunnel, and abundant wildlife. As the train hugged the river’s curves beneath cottonwood and sycamore trees, we felt like travelers from a bygone era, marveling at the canyon’s beauty even as rain streaked the windows. During our train journey, we captured photos of stunning scenery, sipped on coffee-flavored drinks, and shared laughs over stories from our RV trips.

The very next day found us leaving the green valley of Cottonwood and heading for the winding, storied streets of Jerome, AZ. With Rachelle and Kevin again by our side, our next adventure beckoned, this time, diving into the rugged past of Arizona’s most legendary mining town. Jerome, Arizona, clings precariously to the face of Cleopatra Hill, its narrow, winding streets zigzagging up steep inclines and offering jaw-dropping vistas across the Verde Valley. Jerome was a booming copper mining camp in the late 1800s,

Douglas Mansion in Jerome State Historic Park

a place where saloons and miners’ shacks balanced on terraces above the valley, and where life was as lively as it was dangerous. When the mines finally closed in 1953, Jerome nearly disappeared as many old mining towns did. Jerome was reborn in the 60’s & 70’s as a haven for artists, musicians, and free spirits drawn to its quirky charm and haunting beauty. Today, Jerome thrives as a National Historic Landmark, its hills dotted with vibrant galleries, cozy wineries, eclectic restaurants, and fascinating remnants of its mining past, all set against the backdrop of stunning mountain views. But no visit to Jerome is complete without a trip to the Douglas Mansion at Jerome State Historic Park. The mansion is a museum that preserves the town's storied mining history. We spent hours exploring the detailed exhibits of mining tools and equipment, interactive 3D models of the underground mines, and informative videos that brought Jerome’s wild past to life.

Old Mining Equipment, Jerome State Historic Park

It’s wild how a week can slip by in a blink when you’re surrounded by good friends and laughter. Our seven days in Cottonwood, AZ felt more like a joyful blur than a stretch of time. But as all wonderful chapters do, this one had to close. After one last shared meal with Kevin and Rachelle, we hugged goodbye the next morning, each of us turning our wheels in different directions. While they pointed their RV south towards Phoenix, we set our sights east, beginning the long journey back towards New England. Sharing stories and laughs with friends is great, but it's also exciting to plan future adventures, whether reconnecting in 2027 in California or finding new paths to meet along the way. That’s the real joy of this RV life: shared adventures, the promise of future reunions, and knowing that every goodbye is simply a “see you down the road,” as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Saguaro Cacti, Tombstone Cowboys, & Sunny Desert Adventures in Tucson, AZ.

At long last, we’ve arrived somewhere the weather actually welcomes us—hello, southern Arizona! After more than 4,500 miles on the road from chilly Massachusetts, it feels

 Large Saguaro Cacti, Saguaro National Park

like we’ve finally hit the jackpot. Mornings may start off cool and brisk—think mid to upper 40s—but by afternoon, it’s a perfect 70-something, with gentle breezes that practically beg you to stay outside. Evenings settle into a refreshing coolness, making sleep a dream. It’s no wonder people flock to Tucson this time of year while the rest of the country shivers under winter’s grip. Of course, I have to remind myself occasionally: summer here is a whole other story. With daytime highs over 100 degrees and nights that barely dip below 75, it’s a dry sauna—not exactly my kind of paradise! But what makes Tucson truly special is its stunning backdrop. The city sits nestled in a desert valley, surrounded by five impressive mountain ranges—the Santa Catalina to the north, Rincon to the east, Santa Rita to the south, Tucson Mountains to the west, and Tortolita up in the northwest. These peaks soar up to 9,500 feet above Tucson’s 2,400-foot perch, serving up panoramic views that’ll take your breath away. And then, of course, there’s the legendary Saguaro cacti—those towering green giants that seem to wave at you from every direction. Some stretch skyward over 50 feet tall, their arms twisting and posing in ways that make every cactus a contender in a desert beauty pageant. I found myself mentally rating each one as we passed, with bonus points awarded for any Saguaro hosting a bird’s nest. (A rare sight, but always a treat.) And speaking of style—don’t be surprised if you spot a Saguaro wearing a sunhat! Out here, everyone’s in on the secret: the Arizona sun doesn’t play favorites, not even with the locals.

Judy and Eli @ Top Golf

Our Tucson trip was memorable, thanks to reconnecting with friends who know the city well. Eli, a University of Arizona student we've known since his childhood, took us to Top Golf for some lighthearted fun. Alan, Judy’s first principal in Massachusetts and now a part-time resident, gave us tips on the best sights. With such a packed itinerary, our week flew by and barely covered all that Tucson has to offer. Here are a few highlights from our busy visit, made possible by our knowledgeable friends.

Sweetwater Wetlands

Alan stopped by the RV Park to get the 411 on our RV lifestyle and reconnect with us before we accompanied him to Sweetwater Wetlands, a renowned bird sanctuary. Covering 30 acres, this free public park offers wildlife habitats, walking trails, ponds, and riparian vegetation, and hosts over 300 recorded bird species.

Tombstone, Arizona

Our day trip to Tombstone, AZ—affectionately called “The Town Too Tough to Die”—was a riot from start to finish. About 75 miles southeast of Tucson, this small city is bursting with Wild West personality. We jumped on a trolley tour that whisked us past all the must-see sights: 

Office out back at the OK Corral in Tombstone

the infamous Bird Cage Theatre, the imposing Tombstone Courthouse, Big Nose Kate’s Saloon (once a hotspot for gamblers and colorful characters), and, of course, the Boothill Graveyard. But the real highlight was returning to the historic O.K. Corral. The site buzzes with energy, especially during the live reenactments of the legendary shootout between the Earps, Doc Holliday, and the Clanton-McLaury gang—performed several times daily by some seriously talented (and, in at least one case, very good-looking) historical actors. The actor playing Doc Holliday was so dashingly handsome that Judy insisted on a photo—and for a moment, I thought I’d be heading home solo while she rode off into the sunset with Doc! Beyond the action, the O.K. Corral features a fascinating museum, an authentic 1880s stable, vintage buggies, and a real working blacksmith shop. We also took time to explore C.S. Fly’s legendary photography studio, right next door to the Corral. Fly’s collection of Western photos is a treasure trove, including some of the most iconic images ever taken of Geronimo and his Apache clan. All in all, our visit to Tombstone left us grinning, full of stories, and just a little worried I might have to tip my hat and say, “Goodnight, Doc, take good care of Judy!” 

Judy with that Dashing Doc Holiday at the O.K. Corral in Tombstone, AZ.

The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Alan, a proud member of The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, generously insisted we use his complimentary tickets for our visit—an offer we simply couldn’t refuse! Not only did Alan make sure we got inside, but he also enthusiastically encouraged us to catch the Raptor Free Flight demonstration, describing it as a “must-see.” He wasn’t kidding. The show featured native hawks, owls, and falcons soaring freely just overhead, so close that one Harris’s hawk actually brushed past my head and ruffled my hair, leaving me both stunned and exhilarated. Watching these raptors swoop and dive mere feet above us was absolutely unforgettable. Afterwards, we spent a wonderful hour wandering the museum’s scenic walking trails, passing animals and beautiful biospheres, all under the bright Arizona sun—a perfect morning in the Sonoran Desert.

Saguaro National Park

Not too far from the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, we traded the curated trails and animal exhibits for the wild beauty of Saguaro National Park. The moment we hit the dusty paths, we were greeted by a cast of desert characters: the stately Saguaro cacti—towering everywhere you looked—kept us company at every turn, while Teddy Bear Cholla, Fishhook Barrel, and sprawling Prickly Pear added their own thorny personalities to the mix. The scenery was so breathtaking that it almost made us forget we were putting in the miles—until we realized our leisurely exploration had become a solid 4.5-mile hike. And with so many spiny neighbors lining the trail, I made sure to keep my footing; one misstep and I’d be picking cactus spines out of some unlucky appendage for the rest of the trip—a souvenir I was definitely not eager to take home! 

Catalina State Park.

Alan & Judy in Catalina State Park

We enjoyed yet another wonderful morning with Alan, whose home is nestled north of Tucson by the scenic Catalina Mountains and Catalina State Park. Thanks to Alan, who had already shared so many helpful suggestions, we felt like insiders as we explored the park on a lively Saturday, when the Nature Program featured a fascinating live reptile exhibit. Alan led us along his favorite 2½-mile Canyon Loop Trail, which winds over and back across the Cañada del Oro Wash. To our surprise, the wash actually had water flowing, making our hike even more memorable as we navigated its crossings together.   

                               

As memorable as the sights of Tucson were, the awe-inspiring Saguaro National Park, the thrilling Raptor Free Flight at the Desert Museum, and even swinging away at Topgolf, what truly made this stop memorable was reconnecting with old friends. There’s a unique joy in sharing the road with those we’ve known and having our journeys intersect in surprising ways. Meeting up again with Alan and Eli were the highlights, the kind of meaningful encounter that makes RV life so rewarding. You never know when your paths might cross again, and that’s what makes these reunions so special. And with that, we invite you to join us, as we tell… the rest of the story.

Interesting Museums and Breathtaking Vistas in Las Cruces, NM.

Leaving Carlsbad, NM, we continued our RV journey west, skirting El Paso, Texas, before arriving for a brief stay in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Our travel plans were shaped by a winter storm sweeping south, and we managed to stay just ahead of its chilly grip as we made our way toward the warmth of Tucson, Arizona. Las Cruces immediately impressed us with its unique geographic location, nestled in the Mesilla Valley along the Rio Grande, right in the heart of the vast Chihuahuan Desert. Despite the seemingly flat landscape, the city sits at an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet. Our campsite was perched on a hill west of the city, offering panoramic views of Las Cruces and the magnificent Organ Mountains, whose dramatic, needle-like spires are shaped by erosion and the shifting Rio Grande Rift. To our surprise, Las Cruces turned out to be much more than just a picturesque desert town—it’s actually the second largest city in New Mexico, both in size and population, trailing only Albuquerque. It’s also a dynamic regional center for agricultural innovation and history, making its prominence even more unexpected. It was a good place to hold over until the storm passed.  

Our first day in Las Cruces brought us to the New Mexico Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum, a true showcase of the region’s rich agricultural legacy and vibrant history. The museum is 

Judy and Billy the Kid Statue

truly expansive, featuring fascinating exhibits that bring the story of New Mexico’s farming and ranching heritage to life. One of the highlights was the in-depth presentation on the Lincoln County War—an epic struggle for control in the late 1800s. The museum’s displays dive deep into the background of this conflict, spotlighting legendary figures like Billy the Kid and illustrating the dramatic events that shaped the area. We were captivated by authentic artifacts, detailed accounts of the “Five-Day Battle,” and the rivalry between powerful factions vying for economic dominance. The “Saddle Makers of the Southwest” exhibit further impressed us with its gorgeous, handcrafted leather saddles and the artistry of local craftsmen. What really stood out was how the museum’s layout spans both indoor galleries and outdoor exhibits, including live livestock areas that make the experience immersive and dynamic. With such a wide variety of displays—ranging from interactive educational setups to historical reenactments and live animal demonstrations, the museum felt huge and endlessly interesting, offering something new at every turn.  

Grinding corm at NM Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum

On our second day in Las Cruces, marked by inclement weather, we proceeded eastward through the Organ Mountains under persistent rainfall, low temperatures and dense fog to visit the White Sands Missile Range Museum, located within the U.S. Army’s expansive missile test site. As the base operates actively, entry required passage through a security checkpoint. Typically, civilian visitors are instructed to park outside and walk a quarter mile to the museum; however, due to adverse weather conditions and minimal attendance, the guard conducted an expedited background check for Judy, myself, and our vehicle, and allowed us passage directly to the parking lot. Inside, the museum offered numerous informative exhibits detailing the history of rocket development and atomic weapons research. Notable displays covered early rocketry, the V-2 testing program, and the Trinity Site, which represents the location of the first atomic

bomb test. After viewing the indoor exhibits, on our way back to the truck, in windy and rainy conditions we took a brief walk through the outdoor missile park. Here the exterior collection showcased over 35 rockets, missiles, and deployment vehicles from the Army, Navy, and Air Force, all arranged in simulated firing positions. Although our time outdoors was brief due to the conditions, we were impressed by the scale and diversity of the technology on display. Touring an active military installation, surrounded by a forest of rockets, left us feeling like extras in an action-adventure movie--definitely not your average museum day!

Las Cruces, NM turned out to be a delightful surprise, offering stunning scenery and a fascinating history that went beyond our expectations. The city’s rugged desert views, set against the Organ Mountains and the Rio Grande, along with our tours of two very different museums, made our RV stop both educational and memorable. These experiences broadened our outlook, revealing everything from the craft of saddle making to pivotal events in the atomic era. Our short stay in Las Cruces blended natural beauty with deep cultural heritage. With that, we conclude another chapter of our journey as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Underground Wonders, New Friendships, and Artful Encounters In Carlsbad, NM.

There’s something downright magical about the RV lifestyle, isn’t there? We’re constantly on the move, collecting memories and friendships like souvenirs from every corner of the country. Conversely, this also means that Judy and I are typically solo travelers for the majority of our trips. We have observed, firsthand, the larger caravans of RV’ers crisscrossing the roadways on preplanned routes. Your travel buddies become your mobile family, and at every stop, you’re surrounded by familiar faces and inside jokes that span miles of road. But there’s another kind of RV encounter, the kind that sneaks up on you. That’s when you meet a fellow traveler by pure coincidence. Finding a connection with another couple who seem like old friends, even though we've only just met. No prearranged plans, no expectations. Just four people crossing paths and instantly clicking over sightseeing and travel. We got to experience this serendipity firsthand during our stop in Carlsbad, NM. Picture us, 750 feet underground in the Carlsbad Caverns, bumping into another couple who were, figuratively speaking, mirror images of ourselves. It all began with the simplest exchange of everyday pleasantries between two previously unknown travelers, just a friendly hello, a casual question, and a shared smile. In that instant, a genuine connection sparked, transforming strangers into travel companions as we swapped stories and laughter. That effortless, immediate bond is what turned an ordinary encounter into the start of a wonderful friendship. It’s not every day you make new friends beneath stalactites!

Carlsbad, NM became our gateway to an underground world after we left behind the rugged expanse of Terlingua, TX and the wild beauty of Big Bend National Park. Still anchored in the Chihuahuan Desert, our first day found us venturing about 40 miles into the heart of the Guadalupe

Natural Entrance to the Carlsbad Caverns

 Mountains—where the earth conceals one of its grandest secrets. Exploring Carlsbad Caverns isn’t just a day trip; it’s an epic journey into a colossal subterranean landscape. The caverns themselves are so vast and awe-inspiring, you feel dwarfed by the sheer scale of the chambers and tunnels. During peak season, the caverns teem with up to 4,000 visitors, but we were lucky enough to experience the haunting quiet of the off-season with fewer than 500 guests. Visiting when the caverns are nearly empty heightened our sense of awe and made every moment feel like a private experience. The discovery of Carlsbad Caverns is rooted in wonder; Jim White, a 16-year-old cowboy, first glimpsed the swarm of bats erupting from the cave’s yawning natural entrance in 1898. His curiosity sparked the exploration of the main accessible chambers, leading to the protection and eventual designation of the caverns as a National Monument in 1923 and a National Park in 1930. Today, the caverns are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated as

En Route to the Big Room, Carlsbad Caverns 

one of the world’s most remarkable underground marvels. It’s hard to grasp the scale until you descend into the cave yourself. Carlsbad Caverns is a world beneath the world, a place where massive chambers stretch out in quiet grandeur, and where each step reveals breathtaking formations that defy imagination. The journey from the Natural Entrance to the Big Room takes you 750 feet below the surface, following a steep, paved trail with switchbacks that winds for 1¼ miles.  The main chamber, known as “The Big Room”,  is so vast it’s easy to lose track of time and space as you follow the 1 ¼ mile long path around the most amazing formations of stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, pillars and gnome shaped creations formed over millions of years. Even after more than a century of exploration, Carlsbad Caverns remains a mystery in many ways. Over 30 miles of passages have been mapped in the main cave, with new rooms still being uncovered among the park’s 117+ known caves. The surrounding limestone, formed over 250 million years ago, continues to conceal wonders waiting to be revealed.

Steven, Judy with Rachelle and Kevin

We first met Rachelle and Kevin in the heart of the caverns, and before long, they became our fellow travelers. The next day, we set out on a journey north to Roswell, NM—dubbed the "Alien Capital of the World"—known for its playful extraterrestrial theme and its reputation tied to the famous 1947 UFO incident. We invited Rachelle and Kevin to join us, and they eagerly accepted. That morning, our main destination was the International UFO Museum and Research Center, which features an in-depth exploration of the alleged alien crash in 1947 through comprehensive accounts and a vast research library. Roswell combines quirky charm, intriguing conspiracy lore, and classic Southwestern ambiance, offering visitors a truly unique and "otherworldly" experience.

International UFO Museum

Miniatures and Curious Collections Museum

After lunch, we said our goodbyes to Rachelle and Kevin, agreeing to keep in touch and meet again down the road, possibly in Cottonwood, Arizona in a few weeks. With our plans set, we headed off to the Miniatures and Curious Collections Museum. This museum proved to be a fascinating stop, filled with intricate dollhouses, imaginative miniature scenes, and unusual collections. The exhibits offered a welcome change from Roswell’s alien-themed attractions. From one-of-a-kind curios to a piano player, there was no shortage of creativity and detail to enjoy.

Drawn back to Roswell by the city’s creative energy, we returned a few days later to explore the Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art. The most remarkable arts center we have ever visited, and one we will compare to all future contemporary art museums. The museum 

"Lucky the Immortal" by Michael Ferris Jr, Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art

dazzles visitors with over 500 contemporary works including paintings, sculptures, and photographs, all curated from the celebrated Roswell Artist-in-Residence (RAiR) program. Established in 1994, the unique RAiR program provides visiting artists not only with spacious studio facilities and comfortable housing, but also generous financial support. This environment allows artists to focus fully on their creative work, free from the stress of monetary concerns. Its bright, airy galleries display an impressive array of pieces, reflecting the diversity and innovation of artists from across the country. With its special mission and ever-changing exhibits, the Anderson Museum offers an inspiring stop well beyond Roswell’s extraterrestrial fame.

Of course, between alien museums and modern art, we couldn’t just let our sneakers gather dust or miss out on the wild beauty of southern New Mexico’s desert terrain. So, with our step counters pleading for mercy and a craving for sunshine, we carved out time to explore the local state parks—because in New Mexico, even the landscape is interesting and unique!

• Brantley Lake State Park, New Mexico’s southernmost park, was created in 1987 when the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation completed Brantley Dam across the Pecos River, forming the lake and establishing the park as a hub for water recreation. While the lake usually draws boaters and anglers, our visit offered a rare, peaceful afternoon with no crowds, just the quiet beauty of the water and the surrounding desert. It was the perfect time for a sunny, tranquil hike along the lakeshore.

• Set atop a scenic ridge in Carlsbad, New Mexico, the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park offers sweeping views over the Pecos River valley and city below.

  

  Elk at the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park 

  The easy, paved walking trail winds through striking Chihuahuan Desert terrain, pine-juniper forests, and sand dunes, making it a wonderful spot to soak in diverse southwestern landscapes and stretch your legs. We spotted very few animals—most seemed to be tucked away in their dens for a midday siesta, except for the elk, who happily posed for a picture and stole the show!  

 

Reflecting on our time in Carlsbad and Roswell, it’s clear the RV lifestyle is more than just discovering new places, it’s about the unexpected connections that make the journey truly unforgettable. There’s something special about traversing underground wonders and quirky towns with newfound friends who seem to mirror your own spirit for adventure. Meeting Rachelle and Kevin so far from home and instantly clicking amidst the grandeur of Carlsbad Caverns and the playful alien lore of Roswell, was a reminder that travel isn’t just about the destinations, but the company you keep along the way. While we said our goodbyes with hopes of meeting again in Cottonwood, Arizona, the beauty of this lifestyle is the open-ended promise of new adventures and friendships waiting just around the bend. Who knows when our paths will cross again or what stories are still waiting to unfold? For now, we hold onto the memories and the anticipation of future reunions—always ready for what comes next, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Echoes Across the Desert: Journey & Discovery in Big Bend National Park.

As a seasoned RV traveler and storyteller, I’ve explored countless corners of America, but few places have left an imprint on me quite like Big Bend National Park. Our latest journey took us deep into southern west Texas, where the vastness of the Chihuahuan Desert astounded us; its scale stretches across three states and thousands of miles into Mexico. Driving through, we were constantly reminded of how remote and unspoiled this land remains, with dramatic topography ranging from the Chisos Mountains soaring nearly 8,000 feet into the sky to the Rio Grande at just 1,800 feet above sea level. Rugged canyons, rocky terrain, and faulted mountains define every vista, and the sense of isolation is profound. The few surrounding towns—like Terlingua, Study Butte, and Marathon—are tiny, offering just the bare essentials. During our stay, we visited the ghost town of Terlingua on a cold, cloudy day and spent several days hiking moderate trails throughout Big Bend, reveling in the stark beauty and solitude. These experiences deepened our appreciation for both the landscape and the resilience needed to thrive in this rugged corner of Texas.

Entrance to Big Bend National Park

Big Bend is known for its blazing summer heat, often soaring well above 100 degrees, which made our mid-January visit seem like a smart escape from the extreme summer temperature. Ironically, instead of the sun-drenched days we expected, we were met with a string of cold temperatures, cloudy skies, and even rain—conditions that felt completely out of place for a region that typically receives less than 10 inches of precipitation a year. The desert’s reputation for dryness and relentless sun was flipped on its head during our stay, and the weather almost seemed like nature’s joke. Our campsite was just three miles from the national park entrance. Inside the park there are over 100 miles of scenic paved roads providing extensive access to both desert and mountain landscapes. 

Day 1

Rio Grande Nature Trail & the Rio Grande River

On our first day, we traveled 26 miles into the park, passing the Chisos Mountains en route to Panther Junction Visitor Center. As the principal visitor center in the park, it provides comprehensive information, permits, and orientation for guests. The facility features exhibits detailing both the natural and cultural history of the Chihuahuan Desert, a 20-minute informational video outlining the biodiversity of the park, as well as an extensive three-dimensional topographic map of the park. Park rangers frequently utilize this map to assist visitors with identifying hiking trails, the locations of the other four visitor centers, off-road scenic drives, and recommended camping sites.

Rio Grande River at the "Bosque"

After familiarizing ourselves with the park at the visitors' center, we drove south to the Rio Grande Village Visitor Center. We took the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, a short and easy walk that proved surprisingly memorable. The river made a sweeping curve, nearly surrounding us on three sides and revealing the signature bend for which the park is named. Across the water, the pale cliffs of the Sierra del Carmen Mountains anchored the horizon and hinted at Boquillas Canyon’s hidden depths. What captured our attention most was the lush greenery lining the riverbanks—a vibrant stretch called the bosque. Towering cottonwoods and willows thrived here, with stands of giant reeds forming dense thickets. The air was humid, alive with the scent of vegetation and the calls of hidden birds, a stark contrast to the parched desert just beyond the river’s reach.

 Day 4

Despite a stretch of less-than-ideal weather between our initial outing in Big Bend and later explorations, we seized the opportunity on a partially overcast day to hike the Mule Ears Spring Trail, optimistic that the skies might clear and the sunshine would eventually warm

Mule Ears Spring Trail w/ Mules Ear Rock Formation

us. This trail, situated in the southwestern corner of the park, lies 20 miles along the spectacular 31-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive—a route renowned for its dramatic and diverse scenery. We trekked along, taking in sweeping vistas and the iconic Mule Ears rock formation, until we reached the spring, a petite riparian oasis bubbling up from the desert. From there, we extended our walk for about a mile on the Smokey Creek Trail, before pausing for a picnic lunch with the stunning rock formations as our backdrop. Altogether, we covered just under five miles on moderately challenging desert terrain, completing the round trip, including lunch, in about two and a half hours. Getting out and moving in such a dynamic, ever-changing landscape isn’t just exercise, it’s a privilege, and a powerful reminder of how nature can invigorate both body and spirit.

 Day 5

As the weather steadily improved, we set our sights on hiking in the renowned Chisos

On the Window Trail in the Chisos Mountains

Mountains, which rise dramatically from the Chihuahuan Desert plain. These mountains form a striking "sky island" ecosystem—an elevated, forested sanctuary above 7,800 feet that offers cool respite from the desert’s aridity. For this adventure, we chose the legendary Window Trail, often celebrated as one of Big Bend’s most spectacular and “must-experience” hikes. The trail spans 4.5 miles, winding through a volcanic basin and leading to a breathtakingly narrow pour-off that frames panoramic vistas of the desert beyond. The landscape along the way is truly remarkable, with terrain that continually transforms, keeping every step fresh and exciting. At the trail’s dramatic terminus, the sheer rock formations plunge a thousand feet into the basin below, creating an awe-inspiring natural window that perfectly captures the wild grandeur of the park. Standing at the edge, you can feel the dizzying drop beneath your feet and marvel at the sculpted stone walls that tower overhead. The uphill return trek is challenging, rewarding hikers with new perspectives of the striking geology and the vastness of the Chisos Basin as you climb back toward the trailhead.

At the "Window" in the Chisos Mountain

Terlingua Ghost Town Jail

Judy and I have travelled enough to recognize the subtle distinction between merely visiting a town or area and truly getting to know its character. As an example, on a cold and gray day in Terlingua, we set out to discover the town’s so-called ghost tour—a journey less about spine-chilling haunts and more about the lingering spirit of history. The center of town revealed a striking mural of Judy the Burro Lady; her image painted boldly on the side of a weathered building. With a laugh, I convinced my wife Judy to pose in front of it, snapping a photo that, at the time, felt like a lighthearted souvenir. Later, our wandering took us to the old cemetery, a resting place woven into the fabric of Terlingua’s past. Among the weathered headstones and handmade decorations, one grave caught my eye—adorned with tokens and the unmistakable name of Judy the Burro Lady. I stood there, oddly moved, realizing that the character from the mural was real, her story embedded in the desert dust at my feet. The playful photograph we’d taken suddenly gained weight, becoming a bridge between the town’s living quirkiness and its quiet, storied past. The story took on new depth when, following a local’s advice, we ventured to the Boat House,

 a gathering spot more bar than restaurant, its warmth amplified by a patchwork of food trucks just out back. The bar was lively but intimate, and over a casual meal and a couple of drinks, we struck up a conversation with the bartender, a Terlingua resident of over twenty years. On a whim, I shared our encounter with the mural and the grave, mentioning the serendipity of my wife’s name. What followed was a revelation: Judy the Burro Lady was not just a legend but had been the bartender’s friend—her real name was Judy Magers, a woman who had called Terlingua home for her entire life. He spoke of her fiercely independent spirit, her decades spent traversing the Big Bend region atop her burro, living simply, quietly, and entirely on her own terms. She was a wanderer, easily recognized by her wide-brimmed sombrero and minimal possessions, a figure who had become a kind of local myth. Hearing her story from someone who knew her, it became clear why the town had honored her with a mural. That painting, once just a curiosity, now stood as a tribute to a true icon of Terlingua: a silent testament to the respect and affection the community held for her, and a reminder that sometimes the most extraordinary legacies are lived far from the spotlight. And that, my friends, is the difference between simply touring attractions and actually getting to know the people and the place, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Visiting Fort Clark Springs in Texas: An Oasis Amidst the Desert

Organizing a 160-day adventure to new states and destinations is exciting, especially when it comes to picking iconic places and mapping out RV camping spots that look enticing. Sometimes these choices turn out well—other times, not so much. The saying “sometimes you have to break a few eggs” captures our experience in Brackettville, TX. Essentially, planning an epic journey to unfamiliar places often means taking risks and staying at locations that are either unheard of or less desirable. So, once I had mapped out our exploration of the Gulf Coast, I next turned my sights to southwestern Texas, the Rio Grande River, and the border with Mexico. Whilst reviewing Google Maps and doing some research on my National Parks phone app, I discovered Big Bend National Park in west Texas and decided that this might be an interesting place to visit as well as a good place to escape the cold weather in January. But to get from Corpus Christi to Big Bend in one day’s travel was farther than we like to travel in one day.  An intermediary stop would be required. That is when Brackettville, TX became a destination. Interestingly enough, my first choice for an intermediate stop was a city called Del Rio, Texas. A border city that sits on the Rio Grande River across from Ciudad Acuña, Mexico. Del Rio looked to be a much more interesting place to stay. Alas, the campground that I was looking to book into, which had excellent reviews, could not accommodate our reservation. Brackettville was a reluctant second choice.

Let me see if I can use words to paint you a picture of what this western part of Texas looks like. If I were polite, I would say that the terrain and landscape is rugged and unforgiving. If I were to be honest, I’d say that the terrain and scenery is mean and ugly. The trees are stunted with oddly angled branches, set in a vast landscape of red, tan, and brown dirt and rocks. On many travel days, Judy and I have looked out the windows of the truck and marveled at the scenery. Not this trip! We were in stunned silence as we gazed at the miles of nothingness only broken up by a smattering of buttes and hills of scrub brush and rocks. Google describes the landscape around Brackettville, TX, as “a transition zone characterized by scenic, rugged terrain where the eastern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert meets the brushy South Texas Plains and the southern tip of the Hill Country. It features rolling, rocky hills, mesquite-dotted plains, and arid, open prairie”. Yeah, I think that’s also being polite.

In the latter half of the 19^th century, Brackettville was the home of a frontier army post called Fort Clark. Fort Clark Springs is now a neighborhood and community spanning 2,700 acres that was originally the site of the post. Established in 1852, the Fort served for 92 years before its decommissioning in 1946. Throughout its operational period, Fort Clark played a pivotal role as a frontier outpost, cavalry base, and training center. Notably, it hosted units such as the Buffalo Soldiers and Black Seminole Indian Scouts and functioned as a primary cavalry training ground for all U.S. Army cavalry units. Among its distinguished personnel, General George Patton was stationed at Fort Clark prior to World War II.

The selection of Brackettville, Texas, for this significant military installation was strategic.

Las Moras Spring in Historic Fort Clark

In 1852, Fort Clark represented one of the westernmost outposts of the Union, offering security along the Texas-Mexico border following Texas’s admission to the Union in 1845. Another critical factor in its establishment was the presence of a natural spring, which transformed the surrounding arid region into a viable and sustainable location for settlement and defense. Las Moras Springs, located on the grounds of Fort Clark, discharging 12–14 million gallons of water daily. The spring emerges from a fault in the limestone strata. These historic, 68°F springs feed a massive, million-gallon swimming pool, situated on Fort Clark which is now part of the Fort Clark Springs Community.

Spring Fed Million Gallon Swimming Pool, Fort Clark Springs

Judy in Massive Live Oak Tree

An oasis of rich greenery emerges from the dry, barren terrain, clustered around the spring and creek. Here, you'll find large, ancient pecan trees, towering live oaks, mulberry bushes, and sycamore, willow, and cottonwood trees. Walking through this area is fascinating, especially since, less than 1,000 feet from the water, the land quickly reverts back to the arid wasteland typical of the region. 

The history of Fort Clark Springs as a community is interesting. After the Army decommissioned the base, the area underwent substantial decline; many buildings were either demolished, repurposed for their materials, or allowed to deteriorate over time. In 1971, North American Towns of Texas acquired the land and buildings and redeveloped the former fort into a private recreation and retirement community. Today, Fort Clark Springs features restored historical buildings repurposed as residences and apartments and encompasses a designated historic district with additional single-family homes.

Our Companion for the Day, "Rudy" (aka "Escape Artist") in front of Post HQ

 Amenities within the gated community include a community center, golf course, and extensive walking trails. A former barracks was revitalized into a modest hotel, while both a campground and a full-service RV park were developed. Notably, several original elements of the Fort remain, such as the historic pool, select stables, and a museum dedicated to the site's history. Beyond residency at Fort Clark Springs, the town of Brackettville is small with very limited shopping, no public parks, and few dining options beyond Pizza joints.  Consequently, we spent most of our time exploring the trails, touring the historic district, reading informational displays, or relaxing by the pool.

As our stay at Fort Clark Springs comes to an end, it’s clear that not every RV stop will be a winner. Even though Brackettville wasn’t our top choice, we found value in its history and quiet moments by the spring. Within several days we had explored most of the historic district, so our shorter than average stay here turned out to be convenient. We’re grateful for the opportunity to explore somewhere off the beaten path, even when it wasn’t exactly what we had envisioned. Every stop on our journey adds a unique piece to our story, whether it’s a highlight or just a footnote. With gratitude for these experiences, we’re ready to hit the road and see where adventure takes us, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.