Echoes Across the Desert: Journey & Discovery in Big Bend National Park.

As a seasoned RV traveler and storyteller, I’ve explored countless corners of America, but few places have left an imprint on me quite like Big Bend National Park. Our latest journey took us deep into southern west Texas, where the vastness of the Chihuahuan Desert astounded us; its scale stretches across three states and thousands of miles into Mexico. Driving through, we were constantly reminded of how remote and unspoiled this land remains, with dramatic topography ranging from the Chisos Mountains soaring nearly 8,000 feet into the sky to the Rio Grande at just 1,800 feet above sea level. Rugged canyons, rocky terrain, and faulted mountains define every vista, and the sense of isolation is profound. The few surrounding towns—like Terlingua, Study Butte, and Marathon—are tiny, offering just the bare essentials. During our stay, we visited the ghost town of Terlingua on a cold, cloudy day and spent several days hiking moderate trails throughout Big Bend, reveling in the stark beauty and solitude. These experiences deepened our appreciation for both the landscape and the resilience needed to thrive in this rugged corner of Texas.

Entrance to Big Bend National Park

Big Bend is known for its blazing summer heat, often soaring well above 100 degrees, which made our mid-January visit seem like a smart escape from the extreme summer temperature. Ironically, instead of the sun-drenched days we expected, we were met with a string of cold temperatures, cloudy skies, and even rain—conditions that felt completely out of place for a region that typically receives less than 10 inches of precipitation a year. The desert’s reputation for dryness and relentless sun was flipped on its head during our stay, and the weather almost seemed like nature’s joke. Our campsite was just three miles from the national park entrance. Inside the park there are over 100 miles of scenic paved roads providing extensive access to both desert and mountain landscapes. 

Day 1

Rio Grande Nature Trail & the Rio Grande River

On our first day, we traveled 26 miles into the park, passing the Chisos Mountains en route to Panther Junction Visitor Center. As the principal visitor center in the park, it provides comprehensive information, permits, and orientation for guests. The facility features exhibits detailing both the natural and cultural history of the Chihuahuan Desert, a 20-minute informational video outlining the biodiversity of the park, as well as an extensive three-dimensional topographic map of the park. Park rangers frequently utilize this map to assist visitors with identifying hiking trails, the locations of the other four visitor centers, off-road scenic drives, and recommended camping sites.

Rio Grande River at the "Bosque"

After familiarizing ourselves with the park at the visitors' center, we drove south to the Rio Grande Village Visitor Center. We took the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, a short and easy walk that proved surprisingly memorable. The river made a sweeping curve, nearly surrounding us on three sides and revealing the signature bend for which the park is named. Across the water, the pale cliffs of the Sierra del Carmen Mountains anchored the horizon and hinted at Boquillas Canyon’s hidden depths. What captured our attention most was the lush greenery lining the riverbanks—a vibrant stretch called the bosque. Towering cottonwoods and willows thrived here, with stands of giant reeds forming dense thickets. The air was humid, alive with the scent of vegetation and the calls of hidden birds, a stark contrast to the parched desert just beyond the river’s reach.

 Day 4

Despite a stretch of less-than-ideal weather between our initial outing in Big Bend and later explorations, we seized the opportunity on a partially overcast day to hike the Mule Ears Spring Trail, optimistic that the skies might clear and the sunshine would eventually warm

Mule Ears Spring Trail w/ Mules Ear Rock Formation

us. This trail, situated in the southwestern corner of the park, lies 20 miles along the spectacular 31-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive—a route renowned for its dramatic and diverse scenery. We trekked along, taking in sweeping vistas and the iconic Mule Ears rock formation, until we reached the spring, a petite riparian oasis bubbling up from the desert. From there, we extended our walk for about a mile on the Smokey Creek Trail, before pausing for a picnic lunch with the stunning rock formations as our backdrop. Altogether, we covered just under five miles on moderately challenging desert terrain, completing the round trip, including lunch, in about two and a half hours. Getting out and moving in such a dynamic, ever-changing landscape isn’t just exercise, it’s a privilege, and a powerful reminder of how nature can invigorate both body and spirit.

 Day 5

As the weather steadily improved, we set our sights on hiking in the renowned Chisos

On the Window Trail in the Chisos Mountains

Mountains, which rise dramatically from the Chihuahuan Desert plain. These mountains form a striking "sky island" ecosystem—an elevated, forested sanctuary above 7,800 feet that offers cool respite from the desert’s aridity. For this adventure, we chose the legendary Window Trail, often celebrated as one of Big Bend’s most spectacular and “must-experience” hikes. The trail spans 4.5 miles, winding through a volcanic basin and leading to a breathtakingly narrow pour-off that frames panoramic vistas of the desert beyond. The landscape along the way is truly remarkable, with terrain that continually transforms, keeping every step fresh and exciting. At the trail’s dramatic terminus, the sheer rock formations plunge a thousand feet into the basin below, creating an awe-inspiring natural window that perfectly captures the wild grandeur of the park. Standing at the edge, you can feel the dizzying drop beneath your feet and marvel at the sculpted stone walls that tower overhead. The uphill return trek is challenging, rewarding hikers with new perspectives of the striking geology and the vastness of the Chisos Basin as you climb back toward the trailhead.

At the "Window" in the Chisos Mountain

Terlingua Ghost Town Jail

Judy and I have travelled enough to recognize the subtle distinction between merely visiting a town or area and truly getting to know its character. As an example, on a cold and gray day in Terlingua, we set out to discover the town’s so-called ghost tour—a journey less about spine-chilling haunts and more about the lingering spirit of history. The center of town revealed a striking mural of Judy the Burro Lady; her image painted boldly on the side of a weathered building. With a laugh, I convinced my wife Judy to pose in front of it, snapping a photo that, at the time, felt like a lighthearted souvenir. Later, our wandering took us to the old cemetery, a resting place woven into the fabric of Terlingua’s past. Among the weathered headstones and handmade decorations, one grave caught my eye—adorned with tokens and the unmistakable name of Judy the Burro Lady. I stood there, oddly moved, realizing that the character from the mural was real, her story embedded in the desert dust at my feet. The playful photograph we’d taken suddenly gained weight, becoming a bridge between the town’s living quirkiness and its quiet, storied past. The story took on new depth when, following a local’s advice, we ventured to the Boat House,

 a gathering spot more bar than restaurant, its warmth amplified by a patchwork of food trucks just out back. The bar was lively but intimate, and over a casual meal and a couple of drinks, we struck up a conversation with the bartender, a Terlingua resident of over twenty years. On a whim, I shared our encounter with the mural and the grave, mentioning the serendipity of my wife’s name. What followed was a revelation: Judy the Burro Lady was not just a legend but had been the bartender’s friend—her real name was Judy Magers, a woman who had called Terlingua home for her entire life. He spoke of her fiercely independent spirit, her decades spent traversing the Big Bend region atop her burro, living simply, quietly, and entirely on her own terms. She was a wanderer, easily recognized by her wide-brimmed sombrero and minimal possessions, a figure who had become a kind of local myth. Hearing her story from someone who knew her, it became clear why the town had honored her with a mural. That painting, once just a curiosity, now stood as a tribute to a true icon of Terlingua: a silent testament to the respect and affection the community held for her, and a reminder that sometimes the most extraordinary legacies are lived far from the spotlight. And that, my friends, is the difference between simply touring attractions and actually getting to know the people and the place, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.