From Seawalls to Sand in My Shoes: Exploring Galveston, TX

People often ask me how I pick where to travel, probably because with so many choices,

Morning coffee at site 52 on the Gulf of Mexico

it’s enough to make anyone’s head spin faster than a suitcase on an airport carousel. When I planned this adventure, my top priority was visiting Texas. Why? Well, I figured if I’m planning an epic journey, I might as well start in the state famous for doing everything bigger, right? My ambitious journey through the expansive Southwestern United States started with an important choice: deciding where in Texas to begin. I knew it had to be along the Gulf Coast, someplace where a beach was involved, because nothing says “epic journey” like sand in your shoes. After some serious Google Maps detective work, Galveston won my highly competitive title of “Best Starting Point in Texas.” We arrived in Galveston the week before Christmas, and the stop exceeded our expectations. For those unfamiliar, Galveston Island is about 30 miles long and 2-3 miles wide, a sandy barrier island that runs along the Texas coast across a two-mile wide Galveston Bay. It's a significant Gulf Coast spot, known for its beaches, history, and hurricane protection. Our campsite was magnificent. One of the top 5 spots we have stayed at to date of our over 60 spots of camping. We backed the camper right up to the beach, and every night we fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing into the seashore. That’s not to say that every day was a beach day, weather wise. But there certainly were plenty of mornings when the sun lifted itself over the Gulf and treated us to something truly memorable, making our coffee taste even better as we gazed out at the waves. 

Galveston is an oceanfront community that has faced significant challenges due to hurricanes originating from the Gulf of Mexico. The most catastrophic event occurred in September of

1900 Storm Memorial On The Seawall

1900, when a hurricane claimed approximately 8,000 lives and devastated what was then a prosperous and sophisticated port city, regarded as one of the wealthiest in the United States. This event marked the end of Galveston's Golden Era. In response, a 17-foot-tall seawall was constructed along a 3.5-mile stretch to safeguard the city against future storms. As Galveston expanded, the seawall was further extended: an additional 4 miles were added in 1927, followed by further extensions in 1963, resulting in a current length of over 10 miles. The best part is that the seawall has been transformed into an outstanding spot for recreation, bike riding, and walking. As you stroll along the seawall, you’re treated to breathtaking views of the Gulf stretching out to the horizon, with waves rolling in just steps away. People of all ages can be found jogging, rollerblading, or simply enjoying a relaxing sunset walk while taking in the fresh ocean breeze. And with our campsite situated on the west end of the island just beyond the seawall, we were able to take long walks on the beach listening to the roar of the waves rather than the drone of street traffic. It was a wonderful place to camp and enjoy the beach and the Galveston area.

In addition to strolling along the seawall or walking barefoot on the sand, we kept ourselves busy exploring other attractions around the Galveston area.

• Frequently, our initial activities are structured to deliver informative content about the region, often including guided tours led by local experts. The Galveston Historic Walking Tour exemplified this approach. We participated in a two-hour walking tour of downtown Galveston with Noelle; as the only participants, the experience was comparable to a private tour. We walked up and down streets called “The Strand”, “Mechanic Street” and “Market Street”, stopping into building like “the Tremont House” and “Shearn Moody Plaza”. Here is an interesting factoid we learned on our tour: Galveston is a major port for cruise ships, second only to the Port of Miami.

Moody Plaza & Galveston Railroad Museum

• The Galveston Railroad Museum was beautifully decorated for the “Polar Express”
  
  experience during Christmas and appeared particularly festive as we explored the exhibits. Located in historic Union Station, the museum boasts the southwest’s largest collections of restored locomotives and train stock, offering a hands-on look at railroad history through vintage trains, interactive exhibits, and model layouts. We have been to a number of train museums, but this was the first one we were able to walk through a number of restored Pullman cars. 

• The Bryan Museum is an esteemed institution dedicated to history and art, located in the restored Galveston Orphans' Home. It houses one of the world's largest collections of artifacts, documents, and artwork pertaining to Texas and the American West. Founded by JP and Mary Jon Bryan, the museum was established to provide a permanent residence for their significant collection. In 2015, they acquired the deteriorated historic building, invested substantial resources into its complete renovation, and created the museum to honor both the heritage of the American West and the legacy of the successful orphanage that previously occupied the site.

The Bryan Museum, Restored Galveston Orphans' Home

• One of our favorite experiences in Galveston was visiting the League-Kempner House.

  

  The League-Kempner House Restored Greenhouse 

  This fascinating tour showcased a historic mansion being restored to its original 1893 splendor. The house was first constructed for entrepreneur John League by renowned Galveston architect Nicholas Clayton, and it was later sold to Eliza Kempner in the 1920s. For many years, the Kempner family enjoyed the home, making only minor updates, trying to preserve its original character while adding modern amenities suited to twentieth century living. Over time, as with many grand mansions from Galveston's golden age, the property was abandoned and fell into disrepair, facing significant water issues, including leaking roofs and basement flooding. In 2021, the house was purchased by builder and developer Janie Mitcham. Originally intended for renovation and resale, Ms. Mitcham decided in 2022 to convert the property into a non-profit organization with the goal of restoring the house to its original grandeur. This remarkable restoration project stands out for the meticulous effort to preserve as much of the original structure as possible. Having had the opportunity to meet Janie Mitcham and her sister and tour the restoration process, I can attest to the exceptional dedication involved. They post videos of their renovation project to YouTube, and I look forward to observing future progress. You never know, one day we may decide to return to Galveston and revisit the League-Kempner House as a completely refurbished Galveston landmark.

Foyer of The League-Kempner House

I've begun to recognize a certain rhythm that accompanies our long journeys to corners of America we never imagined exploring. Galveston gifted us with stories and memories that will linger long after the sand has left our shoes. From the rhythmic crash of waves along the seawall to the elaborate restoration of historic mansions, this resilient island continually reveals new surprises hidden just beyond each sunset or behind an aged, weather-beaten door. With every step, we became part of the vibrant tapestry that defines Galveston, TX as truly unique. Texas’s sheer size beckons us onward, and after experiencing the charm of its coastline, we’re excited to see what awaits in our next destination: the bustling, culturally rich city of Austin. Each stop deepens our appreciation for the unexpected wonders found along the way, reminding us that adventure is often closer than we think, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Unexpected Experiences, Interesting Sights, & Amazing Tastes In Lafayette, LA.

Little did we realize when we were visiting Halifax, Nova Scotia in August of this past year, that some of the history of Halifax would be tied to our current stop in Lafayette, Louisiana. I know it’s quite a leap but bear with me whilst I try to explain. When we were in Halifax, we took a tour boat of Georges Island in the middle of Halifax Harbor.  On the tour we learned that the French had started to colonize Canada in the mid-16^th century and by 1763 had moved west down the St. Lawrence River and founded Québec. Some of the earliest settlers established farming communities in the Maritimes region of Canada, formerly called Acadia. The British arrived in 1749 and promptly colonized Halifax and its surrounding region of Nova Scotia, (as well as some parts of New Brunswick).To counter French influence in the area, the British Lieutenant-Governor rounded up the French speaking Acadians and forcibly deported some 10,000 to 12,000 people between 1755 through 1763. The deportation was called "Le Grand Dérangement” and Georges Island was the staging ground. Hundreds of Acadians starved or froze to death in the winter on the island awaiting ships for deportation. Remarkably, three thousand of those poor souls made their way to the Attakapas region and Lafayette, LA. (The Attakapas region refers to the historical territory of the Atakapa people, an Indigenous group who lived along the Gulf Coast of what is now Southeast Texas and Southwest Louisiana, from Galveston Bay to the Calcasieu River.) And thus begins the backstory of our visit to Lafayette, LA. A city with a vibrant Cajun & Creole culture, authentic food, and a lively Zydeco music scene, all due to its unique blend of French heritage and the settlement of some 3,000 Acadians from Halifax, NS.

Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist

This all comes full circle on our first full day in Lafayette, where in Judy & I found ourselves as the only two people on a historic walking tour of Lafayette, given by the most amazing tour guide, Cassie. Lafayette is a very walkable city, and the tour offered a wealth of information, local stories, and folklore. The tour began with a question regarding our knowledge of the expulsion of French Acadians by the British and their eventual settlement in Lafayette. We responded that we were very familiar with the topic, and from there, a lively exchange of information continued throughout the rest of the tour. Cassie was a local and was clearly not reading from a script; she was telling the history of “her” town and it was truly engaging.

Meeting and befriending Cassie turned out to be a fabulous stroke of good fortune, because
during the tour it was revealed that Cassie was not only a local who leads tours, but also a screenwriter and a producer of films. She has been a screenwriter for a number of years, specializing in creating stories with a Christmas theme, which always seem to be in high demand around this time of the year. A couple of her screen written films have made their way to notable streaming platforms. Further, Cassie had most recently written, and this time was also the executive producer of, a new Christmas movie, filmed locally in Lafayette, called “Honey’s Christmas Wish”.

Screenwriter & Producer Cassie at her movie Screening 

 And just like that, we found ourselves invited to the initial local screening. It’s most unbelievable that within 24 hours of our arrival, we were on the official guest list for a premiere screening at the Acadiana Center for the Arts! The theater was filled with invited guests, all excited to see the full movie for the first time, alongside the actors, director, and producers. Attending such a special event truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Confidentially, Judy and I, the two Jews in the theater, thoroughly enjoyed the film, and predict it will be well received next year on a streaming platform. 

500 yr old Bald Cypress Trees in Lake Martin

What’s a trip to southwestern Louisiana without a swamp boat tour? Frankly, it’d be a bit of a bayou bummer. (I know, I know, I can hear the groaning.) We spent a beautiful sunny morning on a swamp boat tour of Lake Martin in Breaux Bridge, LA. Lake Martin is a natural lake (once Lake la Pointe) that was enlarged and permanently flooded by building a ring levee around it. Thus, creating a distinct cypress-filled shallow waters lake, and making it a unique wetland ecosystem for birds, turtles, and gators. Upon boarding the boat, we were given the obligatory safety instructions which included the line, “if you fall out of the boat, just stand up, most of the lake is less than 4-feet deep!” We saw a blue heron, egrets, alligators, ringed map turtles, and an osprey in a Bald Cypress tree overhead.

Champagne's Cajun Swamp Tours

This immersive journey, on a slow-paced swamp boat tour through the wetlands, offered a firsthand glimpse into the natural splendor and remarkable biodiversity that define the region.

Blue Heron in Lake Martin

As we often do, we spent a day exploring other culturally significant places in the area. There is more to southwestern Louisiana than just its famous Cajun cuisine and alligators. Within 20 miles of our campsite was the historic town of St. Martinville.

Acadian National Memorial & Museum

Located along the Bayou Teche, the Acadian National Memorial and Museum is known as the "Cradle of Cajun Culture." This is where the 3,000 exiled Acadians (Cajuns) settled. The Acadian Memorial features a mural of their arrival, a wall of names, and the replica of the Deportation Cross that stands in Grand-Pré, NS, honoring the thousands who found new life in Louisiana after British expulsion from Canada. The memorial and museum tell their story of hardship, resilience, and the creation of Cajun identity, with exhibits, an eternal flame, and stories from descendants.

African American Museum

Also located in the historic center of town is the African American Museum which focuses on the local Black heritage in Louisiana. There was a population of legally restricted “free” Blacks living in the area. These families emerged through manumission (release from slavery),  self-purchase, or escape, and navigated a society increasingly defined by racialized slavery.

Evangeline Oak

The Bayou Teche runs through the middle of town, and along its banks sits a majestic Live Oak tree which is supposedly the famous meeting point of the star-crossed lovers Evangeline and Gabriel, from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous 1847 poem entitled "Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie”. An epic narrative about their separation during the British expulsion of the Acadians and Evangeline's lifelong search for her lost love, Gabriel. I’ll not spoil it here - you, the reader, can Google the poem and read for yourselves.

One last story before I close out this blog post. We got our first taste of authentic homemade Gumbo.  For a bit of background: on our first visit to Lafayette, we spent an afternoon walking along Jefferson Street in the city center when we encountered the storefront of the Craft Guild of Lafayette. With no specific plans at that moment, we decided to enter and browse through the displays of arts and crafts made from a variety of materials. After spending a few minutes exploring the store, the woman managing the establishment approached us to offer assistance and inquired as to where we were from. People often seem quite surprised when we reply, "Massachusetts." We enjoyed a pleasant conversation, and as we left the store, she mentioned a fundraiser happening on Wednesday night that would include food and raffles. Judy has an uncanny ability to absorb suggestions—especially those from locals—and immediately made note of the event. Unsurprisingly, the following Wednesday around 5:00 p.m., we found ourselves in Lafayette again, browsing crafts in the same shop, just as the traditional homemade gumbo was served with a complimentary side of potato salad.

I thoroughly enjoyed the food, while Judy found the gumbo a bit too spicy for her taste. The addition of potato salad on the side was an unexpected delight for me, adding a surprising twist to the meal. Even though Judy wasn't a fan of the gumbo's heat, we both valued the warm hospitality and the chance to connect with locals, who willingly shared their experiences and recipes. It was one of those authentic moments that made us feel welcomed into the community, and it was caught on video. Moments like these remind us why we love to travel - each encounter brings new friendships and flavors, deepening our appreciation for local culture. There’s always more to discover when you follow suggestions from kind strangers, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Lessons Learned in Jackson, MS - Catfish, Civil Rights, and Cobbler.

Regardless of the effort I put into planning a trip, particularly one as extensive as our current adventure, I'm consistently amazed by how much remains unknown to me, things I couldn’t possibly discover until I’m actually experiencing it firsthand. Here we are, 5 stops into a 28-stop journey to the southwestern United States, and already we have learned so much about the fabric of Americana. Each day unfolds with unexpected encounters and insights, revealing layers of local culture and history that no guidebook could have prepared us for. What I find even more intriguing is that my travel choices tend to be influenced by which direction I'm heading, rather than specific sights or attractions. The approach isn't “let's go here for this particular attraction,” but instead, “since we've stopped here, let's discover what interesting things we can find.” This way of traveling turns each destination into a surprise, where the journey itself becomes the highlight rather than any particular landmark. By staying open to whatever unfolds along the route, we often stumble upon hidden gems and memorable moments that would have never made it onto a preplanned itinerary. I’ve never heard anybody say, “We have this exciting vacation planned for Jackson, Mississippi” unless family was involved. Nevertheless, when we stopped in Jackson, the state capital, we were surprised by the unique mix of southern hospitality and a vibrant local pride that no itinerary could ever fully describe.

Museum of Mississippi History, 1980s Living Room

People everywhere tend to take pride in their ancestry and cultural heritage, and just like many other state capitals we've explored, you'll usually find a museum devoted to that state's history. The Museum of Mississippi History in Jackson offered one of the best museums of this kind and tells the state's story from prehistoric times to today, focusing on its "One Mississippi, Many Stories" theme. In my opinion, what distinguished this museum from others we have visited was its exceptionally clear organization. The layout provides visitors with a straightforward timeline to follow and avoids overwhelming them with too many artifacts. There were exhibits on Native Americans, the Cotton Kingdom, Civil War, and Civil Rights. After spending the morning immersed in the museum’s history section, I gained insight into why Mississippi is often associated with ongoing poverty, subpar education, and low life expectancy. Many of these challenges trace back to its legacy of slavery and racial segregation. Prior to the Civil War, Mississippi actually had 100,000 more black slaves than white residents, and this demographic reality contributed to its early decision to secede from the Union. The state’s economy was deeply dependent on slave labor, and the consequences of that social and economic system still linger today. It’s remarkable that a state history museum offers such an unfiltered view of its past—revealing both its flaws and uncomfortable truths—which gives visitors the opportunity to reach candid, sometimes harsh conclusions. Presenting history this way is truly honest and much appreciated by this “Yankee”.

The Museum of Mississippi History is located atop a hill in a grand building in Jackson which it shares with the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. Before crossing from one side of the building to the other, we decided to have lunch. We proceeded into the neighborhood and descended the hill to the Farmers Market, a cafeteria-style establishment favored by local residents. The menu presented a select range of options, primarily highlighting traditional Mississippi cuisine. We tried fried catfish for the first time, and I also sampled hushpuppies and a type of lima bean known as butter beans. Although I've been on many food tours and consider myself something of a foodie, most of these dishes were new to me. Judy wasn’t quite as adventurous, but she did enjoy the peach cobbler—desserts are definitely her preference!

When you look at the picture of Steven standing in front of the museum, you might notice that it seems cold, cloudy, and possibly rainy. If so, you’re quite observant. If you're curious about how we manage to live in a 230-square-foot RV for long periods, one key is getting out and enjoying the outdoors—even on days with bad weather. Nothing makes you feel more “cooped up” than staring out the window at a dreary, rainy day. So, we felt lucky when we discovered that the state of Mississippi had placed two wonderful museums in the same building, giving us an entire day of entertainment.

The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum concluded our day’s activities. Visiting the history museum first provided valuable context, as the Civil Rights Museum offers a profoundly impactful and immersive experience, highlighting the state’s significant and, at times, disturbing role in the American Civil Rights Movement. As the first state-sponsored civil rights museum in the United States, it presents an unvarnished account of the atrocities of slavery, Jim Crow laws, and long-standing racial injustice. The exhibits evoke deep emotions, including sorrow, anger, and disbelief, attesting to the museum’s effectiveness in conveying this critical history. Visiting both museums in Jackson was a sobering and enlightening experience, shedding light on the complex layers of Mississippi’s past and present.

LeFleur's Bluff State Park Nature Trail

Eventually the weather warmed up, and we were able to visit a nearby state park and get a little exercise. A few miles from the campsite was the 300-acre LeFleur’s Bluff State Park. This urban state park offers miles of walking trails through a diverse biosphere which included bottomland hardwood forests, tupelo-cypress swamps, riverfront pioneer forest, oxbow lakes, and shrub wetlands. A wonderful example of a lush, Spanish-moss-draped Mississippi ecosystem. Best of all, the State Park immediately abuts the Mississippi Museum of Natural Science. This state-sponsored museum is particularly designed to engage children, yet we adults also found the exhibits enjoyable and informative.

The 10,0000-gallon aquarium portion of this museum was most impressive, featuring over 200 species of native fish, reptiles, and amphibians. All in all, our visit to LeFleur’s Bluff State Park and the adjoining aquarium made for a refreshing, educational, and thoroughly enjoyable day outdoors in Jackson.

Who knew that a pit stop in Jackson, Mississippi could lead to fried catfish, sobering museums, and a run-in with Spanish moss? The best plans unravel into surprising lessons: history, hardship, and hushpuppies included. Even the weather couldn’t dampen our spirits or our appetite for peach cobbler. From deep dives into civil rights to wandering a lush state park, Jackson refused to be just another dot on the map. Our discoveries, serious and silly, remind us that it’s the unplanned moments that matter most. We laugh, we learn, and move on, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Resilience and Transition Amid Loss on the RV Journey.

Judy and I want to thank the many readers who reached out in one form or another to offer condolences on the loss of Judy’s father. The past couple of weeks have been a whirlwind of activity, and I’m sure a number of you are curious as to how we managed the immediate needs of handling a family emergency, whilst leading a nomadic lifestyle in an RV. Although I regret to say it, Judy and I have been traveling for some time with the awareness that this could occur, so we made sure to bring all the necessary information and documents to take care of most arrangements. Many of our trips have had planned stops to visit Judy’s parents, often aligning with major airport hubs. Our current journey has three stops that allow us to park the RV and fly to other destinations.   So, we already had planned pre-Thanksgiving travel which included a long-term RV campsite just outside of Memphis, Tennessee, as well as plane tickets from Memphis back to Massachusetts and then to Florida. And that’s pretty much what happened. Nothing says RV adventure like printing memorial documents at a mountain campsite. In the end, we survived the emotional rollercoaster, the logistical juggling, and the sub-freezing RV living, proving that a little planning goes a long way, especially when paired with a dash of optimism.

Bee Rock Overlook

There were quite a few miles separating southern West Virginia from our long-term campsite near Memphis, located in Marion, Arkansas. Since we already had a reservation at a campsite in the small town of Monterey, Tennessee, we made a brief stop there. This pause allowed us to print essential documents and finalize some additional memorial arrangements. Monterey offered a taste of authentic Tennessee mountain life, being nestled at the heart of the Cumberland Plateau. Although we didn’t have much time to explore, we did spend a sunny afternoon visiting Bee Rock Overlook. Perched on top of the sandstone cliff, we took in stunning views of the rolling hills and valleys of the Cumberland Gap. Sadly, that was all our schedule allowed, as we left for Marion, Arkansas the next morning.

We returned to “Neil the Northpoint” just after Thanksgiving. We arrived in the early afternoon on a cold, rainy day. As evening approached, the rain turned to sleet & freezing rain. We spent the next 24 hours in sub-freezing temperatures, while ice coated the truck, so needless to say we could not wait to start heading south toward Mississippi and a warmer climate. Turns out, nothing tests your commitment to RV living quite like a family emergency followed by a surprise ice storm. If resilience means making lemonade out of freezing rain, then we’re sipping ours southbound with a side of laughter and gratitude, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Journeys Through Hills & Heartache In Memory of Jason Seltzer

Judy and I have engaged in an ongoing discussion regarding the number of visits, as well as the number of nights, required to gain a broad understanding of a particular state. Limiting a visit to a single stop in even a small state may not result in a full appreciation of a state’s charm and character. We found West Virginia to be one such state. Don’t get me wrong, we saw a lot in Harpers Ferry and learned a lot about the city’s historical importance, but the city is a tourist destination, and we did a lot of touristy things while there. Our second stop in Princeton, WV, provided a notably more authentic experience. With these two stops, we can say we've genuinely explored & experienced West Virginia and gained a deeper appreciation of its rugged landscapes and local charm, as well as its important place in 18^th & 19^th century Americana.

When you hear the popular refrain, “The hills of West Virginia”,.. “they ain’t a-lie’n” [sic]. I was surprised by the terrain we had to drive through; it was either uphill or downhill the whole way. When compared to places like Wyoming or Colorado, West Virginia's mountains aren't as tall, so the changes in elevation are less extreme. On the other hand, WV roadways traverse closely spaced hills and valleys, giving the impression of an endless series of ascents and descents, where you’re almost never driving on flat ground for long. I have learned that the entire state is part of the Lower Appalachian mountain chain, thus explaining the rugged mountain landscape. Whilst we’re on the subject of roads, I’d like to add another observation: West Virginia rarely uses guardrails on its steep, winding secondary roads, even when missing a turn could send you plunging hundreds of feet into a ravine. I found that many locals I met during our visit shared this same perspective. Still, the endless hills and pristine landscape gave us a true sense of the state’s rugged natural beauty. The scenery, while initially overwhelming, truly impresses with its stunning views and abundance of natural areas perfect for outdoor recreation. Opportunities for hiking, biking, horseback riding, and fishing are all conveniently nearby. Here were some of our favorites:

Camp Creek State Park

Camp Creek State Park is a 6,000-acre park situated in a scenic, mountainous area in the southern part of the state known for its waterfalls and forests. With such a big park, there were a couple of parking areas which allowed access to various recreational activities and attractions. We chose to walk a 2-mile portion of the much longer Turkey Loop Trail. This path led us up and by Campbell Falls, and then through Double C Horse and Rider Campground, a campground specifically set up for equestrian activities. The campsites include stables, pens, and water, and allow riding on 35 miles of trails. I got saddle sores just thinking about it. We walked about 4 miles in total, crunching through the fallen fall leaves on a nice sunny day.

Campbell Falls

Pipestem Resort State Park

Atop the Aerial "Trammy", Pipestem State Park

Located just 21 miles east of Camp Creek State Park, there's another state park with so many amenities it's considered a "resort." Perched on the eastern rim of the Bluestone River Gorge, this park offers hiking, fishing, disc golf, zip lining, mountain biking, picnic spots, and even a 9-hole golf course. Overnight guests have plenty of choices, including rental cabins, 31 full-service RV campsites, 82 rustic campsites, and two lodges outfitted with hotel-style comforts. One of these lodges, The Mountain Creek Lodge, sits at the bottom of the Bluestone River Gorge. The easiest scenic way to reach it is by riding an aerial tram that descends 1,200 feet from the parking area at the top down to the lodge. We took the tram to the bottom of the gorge, appreciating the stunning views as we descended. After walking along the Bluestone River and thoroughly enjoying the tranquil atmosphere, we returned via tram to the scenic overlook and enjoyed a pleasant picnic lunch. This state park exceeded expectations, what a gem of a park.

Relaxing at the bottom of Bluestone River Gorge, Pipestem Resort State Park

Lotito City Park

On one particularly cold afternoon, we made our way south to Bluefield, WV, with plans to explore Lotito City Park. Adjacent to the Bluefield State University Campus, the park was being transformed into the Holiday of Lights festival, with hundreds of illuminated displays featuring whimsical characters and festive decorations. A miniature train also circles the park’s perimeter. In just a few weeks, thousands of families will visit to enjoy the light show and take walks or train rides around the park. Although the walking paths were easy, the chilly, biting wind made our brief two-mile walk challenging, so we returned to the camper. As temperatures continued to drop, it turned into one of the coldest nights we've ever spent in the camper.

Holiday Lighting Display, Lotito City Park

During our time in Princeton, we experienced several pleasant autumn days that allowed us

to explore the outdoor activities available in the local area. However, the weather eventually shifted, first becoming rainy, then giving way to a period of significant arctic cold, and finally resulting in snowfall. But I’m getting ahead of myself here, let’s begin with our visit to the Princeton Railroad Museum on our first day of inclement weather. The Princeton Railroad Museum is a modest, yet well-curated institution focused on the historical significance of regional railroads, with particular emphasis on the Virginian Railway. The best part was the personalized attention we got from the museum’s curator, Pat Smith. This charming woman noticed that we were from out of town (maybe it was the accent), and then proceeded to provide us with a 20-minute guided tour of the museum's artifacts, pointing out newly acquired pieces, as well as an overview of the historical and industrial context of the region at the time when the railroads were an important means of transportation. Pat then offered, and we accepted, an opportunity to be photographed in front of the restored Virginian caboose (#308). A great way to spend a rainy and raw day outside of the camper.

We ended up staying in Princeton, WV longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, unexpected events force us to adapt, and we've gotten used to adjusting our travel plans on short notice. While towing the trailer through the hilly landscape we mentioned earlier, the truck's check engine light suddenly came on. The check engine light suddenly appearing on the dashboard, with no other alert indicators, has been a nagging issue for the last 4 months or so; we have had the vehicle checked by ASE-certified auto mechanics multiple times. But this time, the GMC dealership in Princeton needed some additional time with the truck to diagnose and repair the problem. So, we added two more days to our stay and deducted them from our next stop in Tennessee. This actually worked in our favor, because the weather turned downright cold and snowy the night before we would have been scheduled to leave. The prospect of packing up, hitching up, and driving through snow squalls was not very enticing. Temperatures during the anticipated travel day never got above freezing. With the truck in the shop, all we could do for a solid day was huddle up in the camper and think warm thoughts. In the afternoon, we got some positive news that the truck would be ready the next day and that, after one more night in sub-freezing temperatures, the weather would warm up, and warm up rapidly.

That should have been the end of the story. Unfortunately, it was not. You see my dear readers, later in the evening, with the winds howling around the camper,

Jason (Jay) Seltzer

Judy’s father, Jason Seltzer, passed away in his assisted living apartment in Boca Raton, FL. The patriarch and most distinguished man with numerous achievements died only six weeks shy of his 95th birthday. You may have seen Judy’s beautifully written obituary on her Facebook page (and if you haven’t, here is the link: Obituary, Jason "Jay" Seltzer). Sorry, not the conclusion you may have been expecting, and surely not the one we like to tell. But sometimes that’s what life brings, sorrow amidst moments of joy and adventure. Jay loved reading this blog when he was able. Judy would frequently call her dad whenever a new blog was published, he loved reading about and “being in on” the journey. So, I dedicate this blog post to Mr. Jason Seltzer, without whose love and support this entire retirement RV lifestyle would not have been possible, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Journeys Beyond the Map: Memories, Milestones, and Meaning in Harpers Ferry.

At this stage, I am beginning to feel the pressure, though perhaps not in the way one might expect. We have recently reached the halfway point in our goal of visiting and camping in all 50 states. While Hawaii presents certain logistical challenges, it remains an essential part of our objective. Prior to embarking on our initial RV journey in 2023, I had not contemplated the prospect of experiencing every state; it was not something that had occurred to me as a widespread pursuit. However, I soon observed that many RVs and campers display maps of the United States on their vehicles, each marking the states they have visited. We adhere to specific criteria when determining whether a state has been visited. Merely passing through a state does not qualify. To count a state, we require a stay of more than two days at a campsite, which must also include participation in an excursion or tour. For readers of this blog, it is important to note that a state is recognized as visited only if it has been detailed in a blog post. Using these criteria, as of this blog post we have visited 27 states, with the state of West Virginia joining the list, as of this stop in Harpers Ferry, WV.

Confluence Point @ Shenandoah & Potomac River 

Harpers Ferry serves as an excellent starting point for a journey through West Virginia, offering a distinctive blend of significant American history and remarkable natural landscapes. Renowned for its pivotal role in events leading up to the Civil War, such as John Brown's Raid, it holds strategic importance in Civil War history. The location is notably picturesque, positioned at the confluence where the Shenandoah meets the Potomac River. This area, known as "The Point," marks the intersection of West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland. Even though we visited the area on a cold and overcast day, it is easy to understand why over 400,000 tourists visit Harpers Ferry every year.

What makes Harpers Ferry unique is that it is an actual town, with town citizens and governing council, INSIDE a National Historic Park. For those needing a little background, a national

Jefferson Rock Overlook on the Appalachian Trail

historical park means that it is a protected area managed by the National Park Service to preserve its significant historical, cultural, and natural features for public enjoyment and education. We were thrilled to find that, despite the Federal Government shutdown, the Harpers Ferry visitor center was open, as were the shuttle buses that ferried visitors to the town center. The town of Harpers Ferry was also open for business, which included restaurants and museums in the Town Center. However, with the shutdown, there were no National Park Service (NPS) personnel to answer questions or lead tours. Instead, we had to rely on the NPS phone App. On the App. we were able to follow an eight-stop walking tour of Harpers Ferry, which included historical context and additional commentary. The best part was that the App worked along with Google Maps to provide excellent walking guidance through the park. And, if we found something interesting or got a bit sidetracked, Google Maps was always there to get us back on track. During our NPS walking tour to Jefferson Rock, we actually followed part of the Appalachian Trail. This 2,200-mile trail, which begins in Georgia and ends in Maine, passes directly through, of all places, the historic town of Harpers Ferry.

Harper House Balcony with view of St. Peters Roman Catholic Church 

Having the luxury of spending a full week in the area, we were able to visit surrounding cities & towns with significant historic lineage. One such city is called Martinsburg, which is about 25 miles north of Harpers Ferry. In Martinsburg, the Historical Society of Berkely County has restored the 1853 Greek Revival house once owned by Ben Boyd, father to the notorious confederate spy Belle Boyd. Belle earned her fame as a Confederate spy and confidant of General Stonewall Jackson. In addition to running messages with sensitive information to the Confederates, Belle shot and killed a Union soldier who entered the family home in 1861. She was imprisoned in Washington, DC on two separate occasions. Ironically, after the war, Belle Boyd married a Union officer and became an actress on the London stage.

The other city we had the time to explore was due east of Harpers Ferry called Frederick, MD.

In the 19th century, Frederick also thrived as an industrial center, producing flour and timber, distilling whiskey, and tanning leather. We joined a 90-minute walking tour of the historic downtown, during which we discovered that Frederick has played a pivotal role at the crossroads of American history over the centuries. Frederick served as an important center for trade, migration, and military operations in American history because it sits at the intersection of major historic and modern transport routes like the National Road, the B&O Railroad, and the C&O Canal. The city played a significant role from the colonial era and the French and Indian War through the Civil War. Frederick is also known as both the birthplace and burial site of Francis Scott Key, a notable figure during the Revolutionary War, and it provided temporary shelter for President Lincoln during the Civil War.

Following the tour of Frederick, we continued our exploration of the city by walking to Carroll Creek Linear Park. As it was the first Saturday of the month, we had the opportunity to attend the "First Saturday Street Festival”, which included extended hours for local businesses, restaurants, and galleries offering special events, tastings, and exhibits. The Carroll Creek Linear Park is exceptionally picturesque, featuring numerous water elements, wide walkways along the creek, ample seating areas, and elegant pedestrian bridges. Overall, it provided an outstanding setting for an afternoon walk.

Carroll Creek Linear Park

Our seven-day stay was packed with activity. When we weren’t touring Harpers Ferry

Elana & Rich Walking School House Ridge North

or exploring nearby cities, we spent quality time catching up with friends and family from the tri-state area (Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia). Sharing time with friends and discovering their hometowns together always brings us joy. Elana and Rich, also a Clark University couple like Judy and me, were our first guests in Harpers Ferry. They toured “Neil the Northpoint” and got an up-close look at RV living. Since Elana and Rich had already hiked the trails around Harpers Ferry before, we opted for a different adventure, a hike along the historic School House Ridge North, part of the old Civil War battlefield. The 1⅓-mile uphill trek followed the path Confederate Commander Stonewall Jackson took during his successful 1862 campaign to capture Harpers Ferry. From the top of School House Ridge, Jackson’s men faced Union forces stationed at Harpers Ferry and along Bolivar Heights. The Confederates managed to outflank the Union soldiers, leading to Jackson’s capture of Harpers Ferry and the surrender of 12,000 Union troops. The walk was fascinating, enriched by informative signs posted along the way.

Visiting family is always a delight. We drove about 45 minutes into Maryland to see Judy’s sister, Pam, her brother-in-law Scott, their son Noah and his wife Jennifer, and Chase, the sweetest little grandniece imaginable. Chase is an adorable 4-year-old toddler with blonde hair, and she had all four adults, born before the 1970s, completely wrapped around her finger. Our time reconnecting with family added warmth and laughter to our adventure, reminding us that the most cherished memories come from the people we share them with. We also take great delight in sharing these experiences through the blog, hoping they inspire others to embark on their own adventures. Ultimately, it’s not just about crossing states off a map—it’s about the stories, people, and places that make the journey remarkable, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Flat Tires to Steel Stacks: Unforgettable Trails and Tales Through Pennsylvania!

We’re off again just 7 weeks after returning to Massachusetts from our Canadian Maritime summer trip. As we set off to explore the southwestern United States, we have a mix of nerves and excitement at the prospect of a new adventure. For the most part, I tend to convey an upbeat tone in relating the tales of our RV travels, but our journeys do, at times, come with their own set of challenges.

For example, less than 90 minutes after we set out, somewhere in northern Connecticut, a tire on the RV blew out while we were on the highway. A passing car, waving at us furiously, alerted us to a problem, and a quick check in the mirror saw pieces of rubber flying off the RV’s wheel. We immediately pulled to the side of the highway, “Neil the Northpoint” was going nowhere. Having not ever experienced this type of emergency whilst traveling, we were in uncharted territory. Fortunately, there are emergency & tire repair services who specialize in aiding truckers, and we were able to take advantage of one of these services. Roadside assistance was dispatched to our location where we received help changing out the tire. All told, our roadside emergency delayed our travel by about 2 hours, and we learned a lot about how to negotiate any similar issues we may encounter. We landed at our first stop in Quakertown, PA in daylight, safe and sound.  Every journey brings its surprises, but each challenge helps us grow and adds to the adventure. With a positive outlook and a spirit for discovery, we’re on the road again, after a bumpy start.

All our trips leave from and conclude in Massachusetts, so when traveling to destinations in the west, southwest, or south we always transit through Pennsylvania. A good day’s travel for us is about 5 ½ hours (approx. 320-miles) which places us somewhere in the Keystone State for a stopover. The challenge lies in identifying new towns, cities, or regions to visit without traversing previously explored areas. In past trips we have visited the Lake Erie Region, the city of Philadelphia, the city of Pittsburgh, and much of the Ohio Valley Region. My brother, Paul, lives in Lancaster County, PA, and as such we have visited Harrisburg, Hershey, and other towns in the Susquehanna Valley. I planned this trip to highlight the Lehigh Valley region. We stayed in Quakertown, PA, a short distance from the major industrial cities of Allentown, Bethlehem, & Easton. The Lehigh Valley was an economic and industrial powerhouse from the mid-19th century through most of the 20th century, driven by the iron, steel, and cement industries. This era was marked by the transformative power of the Lehigh Canal and later the Lehigh Valley Railroad, which enabled the region to transport raw materials and finished goods to major markets.

We made the most of the pleasant autumn weather by hiking several times in Nockamixon State Park, which was only a few miles from our campsite. The park spans 5,280 acres and features Lake Nockamixon, a man-made lake covering 1,450 acres as its centerpiece, along with numerous trails for walking, hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Of the hikes we took, my favorite was the second one, a 3.8-mile trek along the Elephant Trail on the lake’s southern shore.

Nockamixon State Park 

One of the reasons for the Lehigh Valley’s immense economic vitality in the 19^th century was

Lock Tender's House, The Canal Museum

the ability to use the rivers and tributaries to move raw materials to the major cities on the east coast. This history is preserved at The National Canal Museum in Easton, PA, the only U.S. museum dedicated to the history of American towpath canals. The museum is situated on what remains of The Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company’s canal system. Prior to the canal’s opening in 1820, moving material down the Lehigh River was a treacherous and deadly operation.  A system of locks and dams was needed to tame the Lehigh River and negotiate the over 900 feet of elevation drop along the 72-mile waterway. Josiah White, a brilliant engineer and a Quaker, and Erskine Hazards, who had connections to east coast money, came together to form the entity that both mined the anthracite coal and transported it to Philadelphia. We spent the day walking along the towpaths, visiting the interactive museum, and riding the canal boat being pulled up and down the canal by a real pair of live mules named Hank & George.

Canal Boat Ride, The Canal Museum

I planned to visit several steel mill towns in the Lehigh Valley. My brother, who’s lived in Lancaster for several years, had warned me that some industrial towns handled the closure of

their mills better than others. Bearing this in mind, we skipped Allentown (sorry, Billy Joel) and chose Bethlehem, famed for being the birthplace of Bethlehem Steel. At its peak, the Bethlehem Steel plant stretched five miles, covered 1,800 acres, and provided jobs for nearly 30,000 workers across its various operations. The site boasted five massive blast furnaces producing thousands of tons of pig iron, alongside machine shops, repair facilities, roll forming and forging presses, testing laboratories, and over 450 miles of railway tracks shuttling iron ore, coke, and limestone to the furnaces. Even now, after years of abandonment and partial demolition, the sheer scale of the remaining buildings is incredible. Bethlehem Steel shut down completely in 2003, but since then the city has found creative ways to redevelop the vast site. The original plant now houses SteelStacks, an arts and culture campus with a concert and event stage set amid the former blast furnaces. The area also includes the National Museum of Industrial History, located in the old Electric Repair Shop. As we explored the campus, we got an up-close look at the towering steel stack structures that are the remnants of the blast furnaces. I was particularly impressed by the exhibits at and around the Industrial History Museum, which feature outstanding permanent displays on iron, steel, and early industrial machinery, as well as engaging presentations about other significant industries like textiles and propane. For the first time since my retirement, I found myself thinking, “This is a museum where I could actually see myself volunteering.”

The highlight of our initial stop in Quakertown, PA, and the primary reason for our frequent returns to this region, is the valuable opportunity to spend time with my brother and sister-in-law, Paul and Jen. Given the rarity of familiar faces in our nomadic lifestyle, visiting family members where they live is especially meaningful. While our travels take us to diverse locations and present unforeseen challenges, the most rewarding experiences are those shared with friends and loved ones, enhancing the narrative of our journey as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Paul, Judy & Jennifer on Paul's Indian Motorcycle