Lessons Learned in Jackson, MS - Catfish, Civil Rights, and Cobbler.

Regardless of the effort I put into planning a trip, particularly one as extensive as our current adventure, I'm consistently amazed by how much remains unknown to me, things I couldn’t possibly discover until I’m actually experiencing it firsthand. Here we are, 5 stops into a 28-stop journey to the southwestern United States, and already we have learned so much about the fabric of Americana. Each day unfolds with unexpected encounters and insights, revealing layers of local culture and history that no guidebook could have prepared us for. What I find even more intriguing is that my travel choices tend to be influenced by which direction I'm heading, rather than specific sights or attractions. The approach isn't “let's go here for this particular attraction,” but instead, “since we've stopped here, let's discover what interesting things we can find.” This way of traveling turns each destination into a surprise, where the journey itself becomes the highlight rather than any particular landmark. By staying open to whatever unfolds along the route, we often stumble upon hidden gems and memorable moments that would have never made it onto a preplanned itinerary. I’ve never heard anybody say, “We have this exciting vacation planned for Jackson, Mississippi” unless family was involved. Nevertheless, when we stopped in Jackson, the state capital, we were surprised by the unique mix of southern hospitality and a vibrant local pride that no itinerary could ever fully describe.

Museum of Mississippi History, 1980s Living Room

People everywhere tend to take pride in their ancestry and cultural heritage, and just like many other state capitals we've explored, you'll usually find a museum devoted to that state's history. The Museum of Mississippi History in Jackson offered one of the best museums of this kind and tells the state's story from prehistoric times to today, focusing on its "One Mississippi, Many Stories" theme. In my opinion, what distinguished this museum from others we have visited was its exceptionally clear organization. The layout provides visitors with a straightforward timeline to follow and avoids overwhelming them with too many artifacts. There were exhibits on Native Americans, the Cotton Kingdom, Civil War, and Civil Rights. After spending the morning immersed in the museum’s history section, I gained insight into why Mississippi is often associated with ongoing poverty, subpar education, and low life expectancy. Many of these challenges trace back to its legacy of slavery and racial segregation. Prior to the Civil War, Mississippi actually had 100,000 more black slaves than white residents, and this demographic reality contributed to its early decision to secede from the Union. The state’s economy was deeply dependent on slave labor, and the consequences of that social and economic system still linger today. It’s remarkable that a state history museum offers such an unfiltered view of its past—revealing both its flaws and uncomfortable truths—which gives visitors the opportunity to reach candid, sometimes harsh conclusions. Presenting history this way is truly honest and much appreciated by this “Yankee”.

The Museum of Mississippi History is located atop a hill in a grand building in Jackson which it shares with the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. Before crossing from one side of the building to the other, we decided to have lunch. We proceeded into the neighborhood and descended the hill to the Farmers Market, a cafeteria-style establishment favored by local residents. The menu presented a select range of options, primarily highlighting traditional Mississippi cuisine. We tried fried catfish for the first time, and I also sampled hushpuppies and a type of lima bean known as butter beans. Although I've been on many food tours and consider myself something of a foodie, most of these dishes were new to me. Judy wasn’t quite as adventurous, but she did enjoy the peach cobbler—desserts are definitely her preference!

When you look at the picture of Steven standing in front of the museum, you might notice that it seems cold, cloudy, and possibly rainy. If so, you’re quite observant. If you're curious about how we manage to live in a 230-square-foot RV for long periods, one key is getting out and enjoying the outdoors—even on days with bad weather. Nothing makes you feel more “cooped up” than staring out the window at a dreary, rainy day. So, we felt lucky when we discovered that the state of Mississippi had placed two wonderful museums in the same building, giving us an entire day of entertainment.

The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum concluded our day’s activities. Visiting the history museum first provided valuable context, as the Civil Rights Museum offers a profoundly impactful and immersive experience, highlighting the state’s significant and, at times, disturbing role in the American Civil Rights Movement. As the first state-sponsored civil rights museum in the United States, it presents an unvarnished account of the atrocities of slavery, Jim Crow laws, and long-standing racial injustice. The exhibits evoke deep emotions, including sorrow, anger, and disbelief, attesting to the museum’s effectiveness in conveying this critical history. Visiting both museums in Jackson was a sobering and enlightening experience, shedding light on the complex layers of Mississippi’s past and present.

LeFleur's Bluff State Park Nature Trail

Eventually the weather warmed up, and we were able to visit a nearby state park and get a little exercise. A few miles from the campsite was the 300-acre LeFleur’s Bluff State Park. This urban state park offers miles of walking trails through a diverse biosphere which included bottomland hardwood forests, tupelo-cypress swamps, riverfront pioneer forest, oxbow lakes, and shrub wetlands. A wonderful example of a lush, Spanish-moss-draped Mississippi ecosystem. Best of all, the State Park immediately abuts the Mississippi Museum of Natural Science. This state-sponsored museum is particularly designed to engage children, yet we adults also found the exhibits enjoyable and informative.

The 10,0000-gallon aquarium portion of this museum was most impressive, featuring over 200 species of native fish, reptiles, and amphibians. All in all, our visit to LeFleur’s Bluff State Park and the adjoining aquarium made for a refreshing, educational, and thoroughly enjoyable day outdoors in Jackson.

Who knew that a pit stop in Jackson, Mississippi could lead to fried catfish, sobering museums, and a run-in with Spanish moss? The best plans unravel into surprising lessons: history, hardship, and hushpuppies included. Even the weather couldn’t dampen our spirits or our appetite for peach cobbler. From deep dives into civil rights to wandering a lush state park, Jackson refused to be just another dot on the map. Our discoveries, serious and silly, remind us that it’s the unplanned moments that matter most. We laugh, we learn, and move on, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.