Visiting Fort Clark Springs in Texas: An Oasis Amidst the Desert

Organizing a 160-day adventure to new states and destinations is exciting, especially when it comes to picking iconic places and mapping out RV camping spots that look enticing. Sometimes these choices turn out well—other times, not so much. The saying “sometimes you have to break a few eggs” captures our experience in Brackettville, TX. Essentially, planning an epic journey to unfamiliar places often means taking risks and staying at locations that are either unheard of or less desirable. So, once I had mapped out our exploration of the Gulf Coast, I next turned my sights to southwestern Texas, the Rio Grande River, and the border with Mexico. Whilst reviewing Google Maps and doing some research on my National Parks phone app, I discovered Big Bend National Park in west Texas and decided that this might be an interesting place to visit as well as a good place to escape the cold weather in January. But to get from Corpus Christi to Big Bend in one day’s travel was farther than we like to travel in one day.  An intermediary stop would be required. That is when Brackettville, TX became a destination. Interestingly enough, my first choice for an intermediate stop was a city called Del Rio, Texas. A border city that sits on the Rio Grande River across from Ciudad Acuña, Mexico. Del Rio looked to be a much more interesting place to stay. Alas, the campground that I was looking to book into, which had excellent reviews, could not accommodate our reservation. Brackettville was a reluctant second choice.

Let me see if I can use words to paint you a picture of what this western part of Texas looks like. If I were polite, I would say that the terrain and landscape is rugged and unforgiving. If I were to be honest, I’d say that the terrain and scenery is mean and ugly. The trees are stunted with oddly angled branches, set in a vast landscape of red, tan, and brown dirt and rocks. On many travel days, Judy and I have looked out the windows of the truck and marveled at the scenery. Not this trip! We were in stunned silence as we gazed at the miles of nothingness only broken up by a smattering of buttes and hills of scrub brush and rocks. Google describes the landscape around Brackettville, TX, as “a transition zone characterized by scenic, rugged terrain where the eastern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert meets the brushy South Texas Plains and the southern tip of the Hill Country. It features rolling, rocky hills, mesquite-dotted plains, and arid, open prairie”. Yeah, I think that’s also being polite.

In the latter half of the 19^th century, Brackettville was the home of a frontier army post called Fort Clark. Fort Clark Springs is now a neighborhood and community spanning 2,700 acres that was originally the site of the post. Established in 1852, the Fort served for 92 years before its decommissioning in 1946. Throughout its operational period, Fort Clark played a pivotal role as a frontier outpost, cavalry base, and training center. Notably, it hosted units such as the Buffalo Soldiers and Black Seminole Indian Scouts and functioned as a primary cavalry training ground for all U.S. Army cavalry units. Among its distinguished personnel, General George Patton was stationed at Fort Clark prior to World War II.

The selection of Brackettville, Texas, for this significant military installation was strategic.

Las Moras Spring in Historic Fort Clark

In 1852, Fort Clark represented one of the westernmost outposts of the Union, offering security along the Texas-Mexico border following Texas’s admission to the Union in 1845. Another critical factor in its establishment was the presence of a natural spring, which transformed the surrounding arid region into a viable and sustainable location for settlement and defense. Las Moras Springs, located on the grounds of Fort Clark, discharging 12–14 million gallons of water daily. The spring emerges from a fault in the limestone strata. These historic, 68°F springs feed a massive, million-gallon swimming pool, situated on Fort Clark which is now part of the Fort Clark Springs Community.

Spring Fed Million Gallon Swimming Pool, Fort Clark Springs

Judy in Massive Live Oak Tree

An oasis of rich greenery emerges from the dry, barren terrain, clustered around the spring and creek. Here, you'll find large, ancient pecan trees, towering live oaks, mulberry bushes, and sycamore, willow, and cottonwood trees. Walking through this area is fascinating, especially since, less than 1,000 feet from the water, the land quickly reverts back to the arid wasteland typical of the region. 

The history of Fort Clark Springs as a community is interesting. After the Army decommissioned the base, the area underwent substantial decline; many buildings were either demolished, repurposed for their materials, or allowed to deteriorate over time. In 1971, North American Towns of Texas acquired the land and buildings and redeveloped the former fort into a private recreation and retirement community. Today, Fort Clark Springs features restored historical buildings repurposed as residences and apartments and encompasses a designated historic district with additional single-family homes.

Our Companion for the Day, "Rudy" (aka "Escape Artist") in front of Post HQ

 Amenities within the gated community include a community center, golf course, and extensive walking trails. A former barracks was revitalized into a modest hotel, while both a campground and a full-service RV park were developed. Notably, several original elements of the Fort remain, such as the historic pool, select stables, and a museum dedicated to the site's history. Beyond residency at Fort Clark Springs, the town of Brackettville is small with very limited shopping, no public parks, and few dining options beyond Pizza joints.  Consequently, we spent most of our time exploring the trails, touring the historic district, reading informational displays, or relaxing by the pool.

As our stay at Fort Clark Springs comes to an end, it’s clear that not every RV stop will be a winner. Even though Brackettville wasn’t our top choice, we found value in its history and quiet moments by the spring. Within several days we had explored most of the historic district, so our shorter than average stay here turned out to be convenient. We’re grateful for the opportunity to explore somewhere off the beaten path, even when it wasn’t exactly what we had envisioned. Every stop on our journey adds a unique piece to our story, whether it’s a highlight or just a footnote. With gratitude for these experiences, we’re ready to hit the road and see where adventure takes us, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.