Unexpected Experiences, Interesting Sights, & Amazing Tastes In Lafayette, LA.

Little did we realize when we were visiting Halifax, Nova Scotia in August of this past year, that some of the history of Halifax would be tied to our current stop in Lafayette, Louisiana. I know it’s quite a leap but bear with me whilst I try to explain. When we were in Halifax, we took a tour boat of Georges Island in the middle of Halifax Harbor.  On the tour we learned that the French had started to colonize Canada in the mid-16^th century and by 1763 had moved west down the St. Lawrence River and founded Québec. Some of the earliest settlers established farming communities in the Maritimes region of Canada, formerly called Acadia. The British arrived in 1749 and promptly colonized Halifax and its surrounding region of Nova Scotia, (as well as some parts of New Brunswick).To counter French influence in the area, the British Lieutenant-Governor rounded up the French speaking Acadians and forcibly deported some 10,000 to 12,000 people between 1755 through 1763. The deportation was called "Le Grand Dérangement” and Georges Island was the staging ground. Hundreds of Acadians starved or froze to death in the winter on the island awaiting ships for deportation. Remarkably, three thousand of those poor souls made their way to the Attakapas region and Lafayette, LA. (The Attakapas region refers to the historical territory of the Atakapa people, an Indigenous group who lived along the Gulf Coast of what is now Southeast Texas and Southwest Louisiana, from Galveston Bay to the Calcasieu River.) And thus begins the backstory of our visit to Lafayette, LA. A city with a vibrant Cajun & Creole culture, authentic food, and a lively Zydeco music scene, all due to its unique blend of French heritage and the settlement of some 3,000 Acadians from Halifax, NS.

Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist

This all comes full circle on our first full day in Lafayette, where in Judy & I found ourselves as the only two people on a historic walking tour of Lafayette, given by the most amazing tour guide, Cassie. Lafayette is a very walkable city, and the tour offered a wealth of information, local stories, and folklore. The tour began with a question regarding our knowledge of the expulsion of French Acadians by the British and their eventual settlement in Lafayette. We responded that we were very familiar with the topic, and from there, a lively exchange of information continued throughout the rest of the tour. Cassie was a local and was clearly not reading from a script; she was telling the history of “her” town and it was truly engaging.

Meeting and befriending Cassie turned out to be a fabulous stroke of good fortune, because
during the tour it was revealed that Cassie was not only a local who leads tours, but also a screenwriter and a producer of films. She has been a screenwriter for a number of years, specializing in creating stories with a Christmas theme, which always seem to be in high demand around this time of the year. A couple of her screen written films have made their way to notable streaming platforms. Further, Cassie had most recently written, and this time was also the executive producer of, a new Christmas movie, filmed locally in Lafayette, called “Honey’s Christmas Wish”.

Screenwriter & Producer Cassie at her movie Screening 

 And just like that, we found ourselves invited to the initial local screening. It’s most unbelievable that within 24 hours of our arrival, we were on the official guest list for a premiere screening at the Acadiana Center for the Arts! The theater was filled with invited guests, all excited to see the full movie for the first time, alongside the actors, director, and producers. Attending such a special event truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Confidentially, Judy and I, the two Jews in the theater, thoroughly enjoyed the film, and predict it will be well received next year on a streaming platform. 

500 yr old Bald Cypress Trees in Lake Martin

What’s a trip to southwestern Louisiana without a swamp boat tour? Frankly, it’d be a bit of a bayou bummer. (I know, I know, I can hear the groaning.) We spent a beautiful sunny morning on a swamp boat tour of Lake Martin in Breaux Bridge, LA. Lake Martin is a natural lake (once Lake la Pointe) that was enlarged and permanently flooded by building a ring levee around it. Thus, creating a distinct cypress-filled shallow waters lake, and making it a unique wetland ecosystem for birds, turtles, and gators. Upon boarding the boat, we were given the obligatory safety instructions which included the line, “if you fall out of the boat, just stand up, most of the lake is less than 4-feet deep!” We saw a blue heron, egrets, alligators, ringed map turtles, and an osprey in a Bald Cypress tree overhead.

Champagne's Cajun Swamp Tours

This immersive journey, on a slow-paced swamp boat tour through the wetlands, offered a firsthand glimpse into the natural splendor and remarkable biodiversity that define the region.

Blue Heron in Lake Martin

As we often do, we spent a day exploring other culturally significant places in the area. There is more to southwestern Louisiana than just its famous Cajun cuisine and alligators. Within 20 miles of our campsite was the historic town of St. Martinville.

Acadian National Memorial & Museum

Located along the Bayou Teche, the Acadian National Memorial and Museum is known as the "Cradle of Cajun Culture." This is where the 3,000 exiled Acadians (Cajuns) settled. The Acadian Memorial features a mural of their arrival, a wall of names, and the replica of the Deportation Cross that stands in Grand-Pré, NS, honoring the thousands who found new life in Louisiana after British expulsion from Canada. The memorial and museum tell their story of hardship, resilience, and the creation of Cajun identity, with exhibits, an eternal flame, and stories from descendants.

African American Museum

Also located in the historic center of town is the African American Museum which focuses on the local Black heritage in Louisiana. There was a population of legally restricted “free” Blacks living in the area. These families emerged through manumission (release from slavery),  self-purchase, or escape, and navigated a society increasingly defined by racialized slavery.

Evangeline Oak

The Bayou Teche runs through the middle of town, and along its banks sits a majestic Live Oak tree which is supposedly the famous meeting point of the star-crossed lovers Evangeline and Gabriel, from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous 1847 poem entitled "Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie”. An epic narrative about their separation during the British expulsion of the Acadians and Evangeline's lifelong search for her lost love, Gabriel. I’ll not spoil it here - you, the reader, can Google the poem and read for yourselves.

One last story before I close out this blog post. We got our first taste of authentic homemade Gumbo.  For a bit of background: on our first visit to Lafayette, we spent an afternoon walking along Jefferson Street in the city center when we encountered the storefront of the Craft Guild of Lafayette. With no specific plans at that moment, we decided to enter and browse through the displays of arts and crafts made from a variety of materials. After spending a few minutes exploring the store, the woman managing the establishment approached us to offer assistance and inquired as to where we were from. People often seem quite surprised when we reply, "Massachusetts." We enjoyed a pleasant conversation, and as we left the store, she mentioned a fundraiser happening on Wednesday night that would include food and raffles. Judy has an uncanny ability to absorb suggestions—especially those from locals—and immediately made note of the event. Unsurprisingly, the following Wednesday around 5:00 p.m., we found ourselves in Lafayette again, browsing crafts in the same shop, just as the traditional homemade gumbo was served with a complimentary side of potato salad.

I thoroughly enjoyed the food, while Judy found the gumbo a bit too spicy for her taste. The addition of potato salad on the side was an unexpected delight for me, adding a surprising twist to the meal. Even though Judy wasn't a fan of the gumbo's heat, we both valued the warm hospitality and the chance to connect with locals, who willingly shared their experiences and recipes. It was one of those authentic moments that made us feel welcomed into the community, and it was caught on video. Moments like these remind us why we love to travel - each encounter brings new friendships and flavors, deepening our appreciation for local culture. There’s always more to discover when you follow suggestions from kind strangers, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Lessons Learned in Jackson, MS - Catfish, Civil Rights, and Cobbler.

Regardless of the effort I put into planning a trip, particularly one as extensive as our current adventure, I'm consistently amazed by how much remains unknown to me, things I couldn’t possibly discover until I’m actually experiencing it firsthand. Here we are, 5 stops into a 28-stop journey to the southwestern United States, and already we have learned so much about the fabric of Americana. Each day unfolds with unexpected encounters and insights, revealing layers of local culture and history that no guidebook could have prepared us for. What I find even more intriguing is that my travel choices tend to be influenced by which direction I'm heading, rather than specific sights or attractions. The approach isn't “let's go here for this particular attraction,” but instead, “since we've stopped here, let's discover what interesting things we can find.” This way of traveling turns each destination into a surprise, where the journey itself becomes the highlight rather than any particular landmark. By staying open to whatever unfolds along the route, we often stumble upon hidden gems and memorable moments that would have never made it onto a preplanned itinerary. I’ve never heard anybody say, “We have this exciting vacation planned for Jackson, Mississippi” unless family was involved. Nevertheless, when we stopped in Jackson, the state capital, we were surprised by the unique mix of southern hospitality and a vibrant local pride that no itinerary could ever fully describe.

Museum of Mississippi History, 1980s Living Room

People everywhere tend to take pride in their ancestry and cultural heritage, and just like many other state capitals we've explored, you'll usually find a museum devoted to that state's history. The Museum of Mississippi History in Jackson offered one of the best museums of this kind and tells the state's story from prehistoric times to today, focusing on its "One Mississippi, Many Stories" theme. In my opinion, what distinguished this museum from others we have visited was its exceptionally clear organization. The layout provides visitors with a straightforward timeline to follow and avoids overwhelming them with too many artifacts. There were exhibits on Native Americans, the Cotton Kingdom, Civil War, and Civil Rights. After spending the morning immersed in the museum’s history section, I gained insight into why Mississippi is often associated with ongoing poverty, subpar education, and low life expectancy. Many of these challenges trace back to its legacy of slavery and racial segregation. Prior to the Civil War, Mississippi actually had 100,000 more black slaves than white residents, and this demographic reality contributed to its early decision to secede from the Union. The state’s economy was deeply dependent on slave labor, and the consequences of that social and economic system still linger today. It’s remarkable that a state history museum offers such an unfiltered view of its past—revealing both its flaws and uncomfortable truths—which gives visitors the opportunity to reach candid, sometimes harsh conclusions. Presenting history this way is truly honest and much appreciated by this “Yankee”.

The Museum of Mississippi History is located atop a hill in a grand building in Jackson which it shares with the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. Before crossing from one side of the building to the other, we decided to have lunch. We proceeded into the neighborhood and descended the hill to the Farmers Market, a cafeteria-style establishment favored by local residents. The menu presented a select range of options, primarily highlighting traditional Mississippi cuisine. We tried fried catfish for the first time, and I also sampled hushpuppies and a type of lima bean known as butter beans. Although I've been on many food tours and consider myself something of a foodie, most of these dishes were new to me. Judy wasn’t quite as adventurous, but she did enjoy the peach cobbler—desserts are definitely her preference!

When you look at the picture of Steven standing in front of the museum, you might notice that it seems cold, cloudy, and possibly rainy. If so, you’re quite observant. If you're curious about how we manage to live in a 230-square-foot RV for long periods, one key is getting out and enjoying the outdoors—even on days with bad weather. Nothing makes you feel more “cooped up” than staring out the window at a dreary, rainy day. So, we felt lucky when we discovered that the state of Mississippi had placed two wonderful museums in the same building, giving us an entire day of entertainment.

The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum concluded our day’s activities. Visiting the history museum first provided valuable context, as the Civil Rights Museum offers a profoundly impactful and immersive experience, highlighting the state’s significant and, at times, disturbing role in the American Civil Rights Movement. As the first state-sponsored civil rights museum in the United States, it presents an unvarnished account of the atrocities of slavery, Jim Crow laws, and long-standing racial injustice. The exhibits evoke deep emotions, including sorrow, anger, and disbelief, attesting to the museum’s effectiveness in conveying this critical history. Visiting both museums in Jackson was a sobering and enlightening experience, shedding light on the complex layers of Mississippi’s past and present.

LeFleur's Bluff State Park Nature Trail

Eventually the weather warmed up, and we were able to visit a nearby state park and get a little exercise. A few miles from the campsite was the 300-acre LeFleur’s Bluff State Park. This urban state park offers miles of walking trails through a diverse biosphere which included bottomland hardwood forests, tupelo-cypress swamps, riverfront pioneer forest, oxbow lakes, and shrub wetlands. A wonderful example of a lush, Spanish-moss-draped Mississippi ecosystem. Best of all, the State Park immediately abuts the Mississippi Museum of Natural Science. This state-sponsored museum is particularly designed to engage children, yet we adults also found the exhibits enjoyable and informative.

The 10,0000-gallon aquarium portion of this museum was most impressive, featuring over 200 species of native fish, reptiles, and amphibians. All in all, our visit to LeFleur’s Bluff State Park and the adjoining aquarium made for a refreshing, educational, and thoroughly enjoyable day outdoors in Jackson.

Who knew that a pit stop in Jackson, Mississippi could lead to fried catfish, sobering museums, and a run-in with Spanish moss? The best plans unravel into surprising lessons: history, hardship, and hushpuppies included. Even the weather couldn’t dampen our spirits or our appetite for peach cobbler. From deep dives into civil rights to wandering a lush state park, Jackson refused to be just another dot on the map. Our discoveries, serious and silly, remind us that it’s the unplanned moments that matter most. We laugh, we learn, and move on, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Resilience and Transition Amid Loss on the RV Journey.

Judy and I want to thank the many readers who reached out in one form or another to offer condolences on the loss of Judy’s father. The past couple of weeks have been a whirlwind of activity, and I’m sure a number of you are curious as to how we managed the immediate needs of handling a family emergency, whilst leading a nomadic lifestyle in an RV. Although I regret to say it, Judy and I have been traveling for some time with the awareness that this could occur, so we made sure to bring all the necessary information and documents to take care of most arrangements. Many of our trips have had planned stops to visit Judy’s parents, often aligning with major airport hubs. Our current journey has three stops that allow us to park the RV and fly to other destinations.   So, we already had planned pre-Thanksgiving travel which included a long-term RV campsite just outside of Memphis, Tennessee, as well as plane tickets from Memphis back to Massachusetts and then to Florida. And that’s pretty much what happened. Nothing says RV adventure like printing memorial documents at a mountain campsite. In the end, we survived the emotional rollercoaster, the logistical juggling, and the sub-freezing RV living, proving that a little planning goes a long way, especially when paired with a dash of optimism.

Bee Rock Overlook

There were quite a few miles separating southern West Virginia from our long-term campsite near Memphis, located in Marion, Arkansas. Since we already had a reservation at a campsite in the small town of Monterey, Tennessee, we made a brief stop there. This pause allowed us to print essential documents and finalize some additional memorial arrangements. Monterey offered a taste of authentic Tennessee mountain life, being nestled at the heart of the Cumberland Plateau. Although we didn’t have much time to explore, we did spend a sunny afternoon visiting Bee Rock Overlook. Perched on top of the sandstone cliff, we took in stunning views of the rolling hills and valleys of the Cumberland Gap. Sadly, that was all our schedule allowed, as we left for Marion, Arkansas the next morning.

We returned to “Neil the Northpoint” just after Thanksgiving. We arrived in the early afternoon on a cold, rainy day. As evening approached, the rain turned to sleet & freezing rain. We spent the next 24 hours in sub-freezing temperatures, while ice coated the truck, so needless to say we could not wait to start heading south toward Mississippi and a warmer climate. Turns out, nothing tests your commitment to RV living quite like a family emergency followed by a surprise ice storm. If resilience means making lemonade out of freezing rain, then we’re sipping ours southbound with a side of laughter and gratitude, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.