Fresh off our
fantastic stop in Old Québec City, we headed due south and re-entered the US
way up in the northern Maine woods. We crossed into the US at the remote Armstrong–Jackman
Border Crossing. Our destination was Greenville, ME, known as the "gateway
to the North Maine Woods" because it is located on the southern end of
Moosehead Lake. Moosehead Lake is Maine's largest lake and Greenville was a
great town for exploring the vast wilderness around the lake. The town has been the central hub for the region since
it was chartered in 1836. By 1884, visitors would travel by railroad to Greenville
and then board steam ferries bound for places like Rockwood, Mount Kineo, Sugar
Island, and other northern destinations. Currently, Greenville is a popular
jumping off point for many activities like fishing, hiking, camping, and numerous
winter sports. Moosehead Lake is wonderful - very clean and a hotbed of boating
activities. What caught my attention was the number of floatplanes on the lake,
as well as floatplane garages nestled into the shoreline. Coincidentally,
Greenville, ME hosts the annual International Seaplane Fly-In on Moosehead Lake
which occurred just days after our departure. And, like a number of other stops
on this trip, our daughter, Morgan, drove up from Massachusetts to join us. It
should not be surprising that the primary activities of this stop were centered
around hiking through the beautiful landscape, and spending time on Moosehead
Lake.
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| Moosehead Lake aboard the Steamship "Katahdin" |
One of the first adventures we signed up
for was a ride on the restored steamship called The Katahdin (or "The Kate").
This historic 1914 steamboat was initially built for transporting summer guests
to resorts and hotels around Moosehead Lake. When automotive transportation
made steamships obsolete, the steamer was refitted with a diesel engine and
converted to a tow boat to haul lumber across the lake. Logging is big business
in this part of Maine, and, prior to 1973, it would not have been uncommon to
see large flotillas of logs being corralled by the good ship Katahdin and moved
across the lake. The Katahdin is the only remaining steamboat from the early 20th
century, offering passengers a spacious deck for enjoying the lake's
wilderness. One of the highlights of the 5-hour boat ride was the stunning views and
vistas around Mount Kineo, as we approached from the lakeside, staring up at the
amazing granite cliffs.
As much fun as we
had on the boat ride, I would be remiss in my account of this stop without
mentioning the wonderful hiking trails we were able to explore in the Maine
woods. First observation: the air just feels so much fresher, and the smells of
the pine forests permeate the senses. Second observation: the trails were
clearly marked, and throughout much of our hike, we experienced a sense of
solitude, as if we were the only individuals on the paths. Both hikes were somewhere
around 4 miles in length, and both hikes featured stunning lake vistas.
- Our first hike was at Lily Bay State Park. A
925-acre park situated on the shores of Moosehead Lake. The park was
established in 1961 from land donated by the Scott Paper Company. With picnic
tables and a beach, there is a wonderful shoreline hike, which offers stunning
views of Moosehead Lake.
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| Little Moose Pond |
- Our second hike
was considerably more challenging. We spent almost 3 hours hiking Moose Pond Loop
Trail. Considered a moderately difficult
trail, this loop trail included a significant climb to the summit of Moose Mountain.
We took the recommended clockwise route for its pleasant views and ate our picnic
lunch atop Little Moose Mountain. The hike concluded with a walk along the
beach area at Big Moose Pond.
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| Atop Moose Mountain |
The
size of Maine, as a state, became clear during this trip. Previous RV journeys
and long drives have shown that making several stops in one state on a single
trip often reflects its large area. On this trip, there were three stops in
Maine, with the last one being Naples, in the Maine Lakes region. We are quite familiar
with this area. Judy and the kids spent many summers in the Lakes Region at an
overnight camp. In the mid 2000’s, they went to overnight summer camp in Bridgton.
Judy worked as Girls’ Unit Head at the camp and the kids spent their summers as
campers. I would drive up on weekends, and when Judy had time off, we would
explore the area. Although it had been 10 years since our last summer there, it
was nice to revisit an old haunt and see how much had changed.
We made the best of a particularly rainy Sunday by
taking a 45-minute ride to Portland, Maine to go to the Portland Museum
of Art. The PMA contains a significant collection of American,
European, and contemporary art, taking great pride in displaying works from local
Maine artists such as Ann Craven, Alex Katz, and Winslow Homer.
And when the skies were clear and sunny we took
advantage of the hiking available in the area.
- As we were so close to Sebago Lake, our first hike
was through Sebago Lake State Park. Sebago Lake is the second largest and deepest
lake in Maine. Second only to Moosehead Lake in size, Sebago Lake is also very
clean and provides drinking water for much of the area. The park contains a
beach area, boat launching ramps, and a large picnic area complete with
bathroom facilities. At over 1,300 acres there are plenty of trails and hikes
to choose from. We chose the Loop Trail which was a 3 ½ mile hike around the
park, complete with lovely views of the lake and surrounding natural forest. We
stopped for a picnic lunch at one of the many tables along the shore.
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| Sebago Lake State Park Beach |
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| Holt Pond Preserve |
- Our
hike through the 400-acre Holt Pond Preserve offered a rewarding experience,
presenting a moderate level of challenge. The
terrain was rutted with roots, rocks, and the occasional fallen trees. That
being said, there was also an extensive assemblage of laddered walkways and
wood boardwalks placed in the wetland areas, keeping our feet dry and out of
the mud whilst also protecting the ecosystem. The clearly marked 4
½ mile loop guided us through varied landscapes such as bogs, thickets, and
dense pine forests. We took our
time, had lunch along the Muddy River, and snapped a few pictures of the scenery.
It pains me to
have to say it, but this entry marks the final blog
post documenting our journey, "Canada or Bust." Over the past 2 ½ months,
we have travelled as guests of our northern neighbor, experiencing a memorable
and rewarding trip. Our itinerary included revisiting locations from
2017 as well as exploring new destinations. The
combination of familiar sites and fresh camping experiences contributed
significantly to the uniqueness of this journey. And, if you have been
following along for the last 6 or 7 blog posts, then I hope you have enjoyed
the trip as well. We love reading your comments and suggestions. So, what
happens now? I’m glad you asked. We have
been planning for a winter 2025 / 2026 trip which we have named, “Exploring the
Southwest US”. This will be a 6-month odyssey to visit states like Texas, New
Mexico & Arizona, keeping “Neil the Northpoint” in southern states for the
entire winter. Our biggest trip to date in mileage, number of stops, and time
spent on the road. Our Journey begins the third week of October, and I will be
writing more about places we are planning to visit. In the meantime, thanks for
following along as we tell…
the Rest of the Story.
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