Journeys Through Hills & Heartache In Memory of Jason Seltzer

Judy and I have engaged in an ongoing discussion regarding the number of visits, as well as the number of nights, required to gain a broad understanding of a particular state. Limiting a visit to a single stop in even a small state may not result in a full appreciation of a state’s charm and character. We found West Virginia to be one such state. Don’t get me wrong, we saw a lot in Harpers Ferry and learned a lot about the city’s historical importance, but the city is a tourist destination, and we did a lot of touristy things while there. Our second stop in Princeton, WV, provided a notably more authentic experience. With these two stops, we can say we've genuinely explored & experienced West Virginia and gained a deeper appreciation of its rugged landscapes and local charm, as well as its important place in 18^th & 19^th century Americana.

When you hear the popular refrain, “The hills of West Virginia”,.. “they ain’t a-lie’n” [sic]. I was surprised by the terrain we had to drive through; it was either uphill or downhill the whole way. When compared to places like Wyoming or Colorado, West Virginia's mountains aren't as tall, so the changes in elevation are less extreme. On the other hand, WV roadways traverse closely spaced hills and valleys, giving the impression of an endless series of ascents and descents, where you’re almost never driving on flat ground for long. I have learned that the entire state is part of the Lower Appalachian mountain chain, thus explaining the rugged mountain landscape. Whilst we’re on the subject of roads, I’d like to add another observation: West Virginia rarely uses guardrails on its steep, winding secondary roads, even when missing a turn could send you plunging hundreds of feet into a ravine. I found that many locals I met during our visit shared this same perspective. Still, the endless hills and pristine landscape gave us a true sense of the state’s rugged natural beauty. The scenery, while initially overwhelming, truly impresses with its stunning views and abundance of natural areas perfect for outdoor recreation. Opportunities for hiking, biking, horseback riding, and fishing are all conveniently nearby. Here were some of our favorites:

Camp Creek State Park

Camp Creek State Park is a 6,000-acre park situated in a scenic, mountainous area in the southern part of the state known for its waterfalls and forests. With such a big park, there were a couple of parking areas which allowed access to various recreational activities and attractions. We chose to walk a 2-mile portion of the much longer Turkey Loop Trail. This path led us up and by Campbell Falls, and then through Double C Horse and Rider Campground, a campground specifically set up for equestrian activities. The campsites include stables, pens, and water, and allow riding on 35 miles of trails. I got saddle sores just thinking about it. We walked about 4 miles in total, crunching through the fallen fall leaves on a nice sunny day.

Campbell Falls

Pipestem Resort State Park

Atop the Aerial "Trammy", Pipestem State Park

Located just 21 miles east of Camp Creek State Park, there's another state park with so many amenities it's considered a "resort." Perched on the eastern rim of the Bluestone River Gorge, this park offers hiking, fishing, disc golf, zip lining, mountain biking, picnic spots, and even a 9-hole golf course. Overnight guests have plenty of choices, including rental cabins, 31 full-service RV campsites, 82 rustic campsites, and two lodges outfitted with hotel-style comforts. One of these lodges, The Mountain Creek Lodge, sits at the bottom of the Bluestone River Gorge. The easiest scenic way to reach it is by riding an aerial tram that descends 1,200 feet from the parking area at the top down to the lodge. We took the tram to the bottom of the gorge, appreciating the stunning views as we descended. After walking along the Bluestone River and thoroughly enjoying the tranquil atmosphere, we returned via tram to the scenic overlook and enjoyed a pleasant picnic lunch. This state park exceeded expectations, what a gem of a park.

Relaxing at the bottom of Bluestone River Gorge, Pipestem Resort State Park

Lotito City Park

On one particularly cold afternoon, we made our way south to Bluefield, WV, with plans to explore Lotito City Park. Adjacent to the Bluefield State University Campus, the park was being transformed into the Holiday of Lights festival, with hundreds of illuminated displays featuring whimsical characters and festive decorations. A miniature train also circles the park’s perimeter. In just a few weeks, thousands of families will visit to enjoy the light show and take walks or train rides around the park. Although the walking paths were easy, the chilly, biting wind made our brief two-mile walk challenging, so we returned to the camper. As temperatures continued to drop, it turned into one of the coldest nights we've ever spent in the camper.

Holiday Lighting Display, Lotito City Park

During our time in Princeton, we experienced several pleasant autumn days that allowed us

to explore the outdoor activities available in the local area. However, the weather eventually shifted, first becoming rainy, then giving way to a period of significant arctic cold, and finally resulting in snowfall. But I’m getting ahead of myself here, let’s begin with our visit to the Princeton Railroad Museum on our first day of inclement weather. The Princeton Railroad Museum is a modest, yet well-curated institution focused on the historical significance of regional railroads, with particular emphasis on the Virginian Railway. The best part was the personalized attention we got from the museum’s curator, Pat Smith. This charming woman noticed that we were from out of town (maybe it was the accent), and then proceeded to provide us with a 20-minute guided tour of the museum's artifacts, pointing out newly acquired pieces, as well as an overview of the historical and industrial context of the region at the time when the railroads were an important means of transportation. Pat then offered, and we accepted, an opportunity to be photographed in front of the restored Virginian caboose (#308). A great way to spend a rainy and raw day outside of the camper.

We ended up staying in Princeton, WV longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, unexpected events force us to adapt, and we've gotten used to adjusting our travel plans on short notice. While towing the trailer through the hilly landscape we mentioned earlier, the truck's check engine light suddenly came on. The check engine light suddenly appearing on the dashboard, with no other alert indicators, has been a nagging issue for the last 4 months or so; we have had the vehicle checked by ASE-certified auto mechanics multiple times. But this time, the GMC dealership in Princeton needed some additional time with the truck to diagnose and repair the problem. So, we added two more days to our stay and deducted them from our next stop in Tennessee. This actually worked in our favor, because the weather turned downright cold and snowy the night before we would have been scheduled to leave. The prospect of packing up, hitching up, and driving through snow squalls was not very enticing. Temperatures during the anticipated travel day never got above freezing. With the truck in the shop, all we could do for a solid day was huddle up in the camper and think warm thoughts. In the afternoon, we got some positive news that the truck would be ready the next day and that, after one more night in sub-freezing temperatures, the weather would warm up, and warm up rapidly.

That should have been the end of the story. Unfortunately, it was not. You see my dear readers, later in the evening, with the winds howling around the camper,

Jason (Jay) Seltzer

Judy’s father, Jason Seltzer, passed away in his assisted living apartment in Boca Raton, FL. The patriarch and most distinguished man with numerous achievements died only six weeks shy of his 95th birthday. You may have seen Judy’s beautifully written obituary on her Facebook page (and if you haven’t, here is the link: Obituary, Jason "Jay" Seltzer). Sorry, not the conclusion you may have been expecting, and surely not the one we like to tell. But sometimes that’s what life brings, sorrow amidst moments of joy and adventure. Jay loved reading this blog when he was able. Judy would frequently call her dad whenever a new blog was published, he loved reading about and “being in on” the journey. So, I dedicate this blog post to Mr. Jason Seltzer, without whose love and support this entire retirement RV lifestyle would not have been possible, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Journeys Beyond the Map: Memories, Milestones, and Meaning in Harpers Ferry.

At this stage, I am beginning to feel the pressure, though perhaps not in the way one might expect. We have recently reached the halfway point in our goal of visiting and camping in all 50 states. While Hawaii presents certain logistical challenges, it remains an essential part of our objective. Prior to embarking on our initial RV journey in 2023, I had not contemplated the prospect of experiencing every state; it was not something that had occurred to me as a widespread pursuit. However, I soon observed that many RVs and campers display maps of the United States on their vehicles, each marking the states they have visited. We adhere to specific criteria when determining whether a state has been visited. Merely passing through a state does not qualify. To count a state, we require a stay of more than two days at a campsite, which must also include participation in an excursion or tour. For readers of this blog, it is important to note that a state is recognized as visited only if it has been detailed in a blog post. Using these criteria, as of this blog post we have visited 27 states, with the state of West Virginia joining the list, as of this stop in Harpers Ferry, WV.

Confluence Point @ Shenandoah & Potomac River 

Harpers Ferry serves as an excellent starting point for a journey through West Virginia, offering a distinctive blend of significant American history and remarkable natural landscapes. Renowned for its pivotal role in events leading up to the Civil War, such as John Brown's Raid, it holds strategic importance in Civil War history. The location is notably picturesque, positioned at the confluence where the Shenandoah meets the Potomac River. This area, known as "The Point," marks the intersection of West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland. Even though we visited the area on a cold and overcast day, it is easy to understand why over 400,000 tourists visit Harpers Ferry every year.

What makes Harpers Ferry unique is that it is an actual town, with town citizens and governing council, INSIDE a National Historic Park. For those needing a little background, a national

Jefferson Rock Overlook on the Appalachian Trail

historical park means that it is a protected area managed by the National Park Service to preserve its significant historical, cultural, and natural features for public enjoyment and education. We were thrilled to find that, despite the Federal Government shutdown, the Harpers Ferry visitor center was open, as were the shuttle buses that ferried visitors to the town center. The town of Harpers Ferry was also open for business, which included restaurants and museums in the Town Center. However, with the shutdown, there were no National Park Service (NPS) personnel to answer questions or lead tours. Instead, we had to rely on the NPS phone App. On the App. we were able to follow an eight-stop walking tour of Harpers Ferry, which included historical context and additional commentary. The best part was that the App worked along with Google Maps to provide excellent walking guidance through the park. And, if we found something interesting or got a bit sidetracked, Google Maps was always there to get us back on track. During our NPS walking tour to Jefferson Rock, we actually followed part of the Appalachian Trail. This 2,200-mile trail, which begins in Georgia and ends in Maine, passes directly through, of all places, the historic town of Harpers Ferry.

Harper House Balcony with view of St. Peters Roman Catholic Church 

Having the luxury of spending a full week in the area, we were able to visit surrounding cities & towns with significant historic lineage. One such city is called Martinsburg, which is about 25 miles north of Harpers Ferry. In Martinsburg, the Historical Society of Berkely County has restored the 1853 Greek Revival house once owned by Ben Boyd, father to the notorious confederate spy Belle Boyd. Belle earned her fame as a Confederate spy and confidant of General Stonewall Jackson. In addition to running messages with sensitive information to the Confederates, Belle shot and killed a Union soldier who entered the family home in 1861. She was imprisoned in Washington, DC on two separate occasions. Ironically, after the war, Belle Boyd married a Union officer and became an actress on the London stage.

The other city we had the time to explore was due east of Harpers Ferry called Frederick, MD.

In the 19th century, Frederick also thrived as an industrial center, producing flour and timber, distilling whiskey, and tanning leather. We joined a 90-minute walking tour of the historic downtown, during which we discovered that Frederick has played a pivotal role at the crossroads of American history over the centuries. Frederick served as an important center for trade, migration, and military operations in American history because it sits at the intersection of major historic and modern transport routes like the National Road, the B&O Railroad, and the C&O Canal. The city played a significant role from the colonial era and the French and Indian War through the Civil War. Frederick is also known as both the birthplace and burial site of Francis Scott Key, a notable figure during the Revolutionary War, and it provided temporary shelter for President Lincoln during the Civil War.

Following the tour of Frederick, we continued our exploration of the city by walking to Carroll Creek Linear Park. As it was the first Saturday of the month, we had the opportunity to attend the "First Saturday Street Festival”, which included extended hours for local businesses, restaurants, and galleries offering special events, tastings, and exhibits. The Carroll Creek Linear Park is exceptionally picturesque, featuring numerous water elements, wide walkways along the creek, ample seating areas, and elegant pedestrian bridges. Overall, it provided an outstanding setting for an afternoon walk.

Carroll Creek Linear Park

Our seven-day stay was packed with activity. When we weren’t touring Harpers Ferry

Elana & Rich Walking School House Ridge North

or exploring nearby cities, we spent quality time catching up with friends and family from the tri-state area (Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia). Sharing time with friends and discovering their hometowns together always brings us joy. Elana and Rich, also a Clark University couple like Judy and me, were our first guests in Harpers Ferry. They toured “Neil the Northpoint” and got an up-close look at RV living. Since Elana and Rich had already hiked the trails around Harpers Ferry before, we opted for a different adventure, a hike along the historic School House Ridge North, part of the old Civil War battlefield. The 1⅓-mile uphill trek followed the path Confederate Commander Stonewall Jackson took during his successful 1862 campaign to capture Harpers Ferry. From the top of School House Ridge, Jackson’s men faced Union forces stationed at Harpers Ferry and along Bolivar Heights. The Confederates managed to outflank the Union soldiers, leading to Jackson’s capture of Harpers Ferry and the surrender of 12,000 Union troops. The walk was fascinating, enriched by informative signs posted along the way.

Visiting family is always a delight. We drove about 45 minutes into Maryland to see Judy’s sister, Pam, her brother-in-law Scott, their son Noah and his wife Jennifer, and Chase, the sweetest little grandniece imaginable. Chase is an adorable 4-year-old toddler with blonde hair, and she had all four adults, born before the 1970s, completely wrapped around her finger. Our time reconnecting with family added warmth and laughter to our adventure, reminding us that the most cherished memories come from the people we share them with. We also take great delight in sharing these experiences through the blog, hoping they inspire others to embark on their own adventures. Ultimately, it’s not just about crossing states off a map—it’s about the stories, people, and places that make the journey remarkable, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Flat Tires to Steel Stacks: Unforgettable Trails and Tales Through Pennsylvania!

We’re off again just 7 weeks after returning to Massachusetts from our Canadian Maritime summer trip. As we set off to explore the southwestern United States, we have a mix of nerves and excitement at the prospect of a new adventure. For the most part, I tend to convey an upbeat tone in relating the tales of our RV travels, but our journeys do, at times, come with their own set of challenges.

For example, less than 90 minutes after we set out, somewhere in northern Connecticut, a tire on the RV blew out while we were on the highway. A passing car, waving at us furiously, alerted us to a problem, and a quick check in the mirror saw pieces of rubber flying off the RV’s wheel. We immediately pulled to the side of the highway, “Neil the Northpoint” was going nowhere. Having not ever experienced this type of emergency whilst traveling, we were in uncharted territory. Fortunately, there are emergency & tire repair services who specialize in aiding truckers, and we were able to take advantage of one of these services. Roadside assistance was dispatched to our location where we received help changing out the tire. All told, our roadside emergency delayed our travel by about 2 hours, and we learned a lot about how to negotiate any similar issues we may encounter. We landed at our first stop in Quakertown, PA in daylight, safe and sound.  Every journey brings its surprises, but each challenge helps us grow and adds to the adventure. With a positive outlook and a spirit for discovery, we’re on the road again, after a bumpy start.

All our trips leave from and conclude in Massachusetts, so when traveling to destinations in the west, southwest, or south we always transit through Pennsylvania. A good day’s travel for us is about 5 ½ hours (approx. 320-miles) which places us somewhere in the Keystone State for a stopover. The challenge lies in identifying new towns, cities, or regions to visit without traversing previously explored areas. In past trips we have visited the Lake Erie Region, the city of Philadelphia, the city of Pittsburgh, and much of the Ohio Valley Region. My brother, Paul, lives in Lancaster County, PA, and as such we have visited Harrisburg, Hershey, and other towns in the Susquehanna Valley. I planned this trip to highlight the Lehigh Valley region. We stayed in Quakertown, PA, a short distance from the major industrial cities of Allentown, Bethlehem, & Easton. The Lehigh Valley was an economic and industrial powerhouse from the mid-19th century through most of the 20th century, driven by the iron, steel, and cement industries. This era was marked by the transformative power of the Lehigh Canal and later the Lehigh Valley Railroad, which enabled the region to transport raw materials and finished goods to major markets.

We made the most of the pleasant autumn weather by hiking several times in Nockamixon State Park, which was only a few miles from our campsite. The park spans 5,280 acres and features Lake Nockamixon, a man-made lake covering 1,450 acres as its centerpiece, along with numerous trails for walking, hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Of the hikes we took, my favorite was the second one, a 3.8-mile trek along the Elephant Trail on the lake’s southern shore.

Nockamixon State Park 

One of the reasons for the Lehigh Valley’s immense economic vitality in the 19^th century was

Lock Tender's House, The Canal Museum

the ability to use the rivers and tributaries to move raw materials to the major cities on the east coast. This history is preserved at The National Canal Museum in Easton, PA, the only U.S. museum dedicated to the history of American towpath canals. The museum is situated on what remains of The Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company’s canal system. Prior to the canal’s opening in 1820, moving material down the Lehigh River was a treacherous and deadly operation.  A system of locks and dams was needed to tame the Lehigh River and negotiate the over 900 feet of elevation drop along the 72-mile waterway. Josiah White, a brilliant engineer and a Quaker, and Erskine Hazards, who had connections to east coast money, came together to form the entity that both mined the anthracite coal and transported it to Philadelphia. We spent the day walking along the towpaths, visiting the interactive museum, and riding the canal boat being pulled up and down the canal by a real pair of live mules named Hank & George.

Canal Boat Ride, The Canal Museum

I planned to visit several steel mill towns in the Lehigh Valley. My brother, who’s lived in Lancaster for several years, had warned me that some industrial towns handled the closure of

their mills better than others. Bearing this in mind, we skipped Allentown (sorry, Billy Joel) and chose Bethlehem, famed for being the birthplace of Bethlehem Steel. At its peak, the Bethlehem Steel plant stretched five miles, covered 1,800 acres, and provided jobs for nearly 30,000 workers across its various operations. The site boasted five massive blast furnaces producing thousands of tons of pig iron, alongside machine shops, repair facilities, roll forming and forging presses, testing laboratories, and over 450 miles of railway tracks shuttling iron ore, coke, and limestone to the furnaces. Even now, after years of abandonment and partial demolition, the sheer scale of the remaining buildings is incredible. Bethlehem Steel shut down completely in 2003, but since then the city has found creative ways to redevelop the vast site. The original plant now houses SteelStacks, an arts and culture campus with a concert and event stage set amid the former blast furnaces. The area also includes the National Museum of Industrial History, located in the old Electric Repair Shop. As we explored the campus, we got an up-close look at the towering steel stack structures that are the remnants of the blast furnaces. I was particularly impressed by the exhibits at and around the Industrial History Museum, which feature outstanding permanent displays on iron, steel, and early industrial machinery, as well as engaging presentations about other significant industries like textiles and propane. For the first time since my retirement, I found myself thinking, “This is a museum where I could actually see myself volunteering.”

The highlight of our initial stop in Quakertown, PA, and the primary reason for our frequent returns to this region, is the valuable opportunity to spend time with my brother and sister-in-law, Paul and Jen. Given the rarity of familiar faces in our nomadic lifestyle, visiting family members where they live is especially meaningful. While our travels take us to diverse locations and present unforeseen challenges, the most rewarding experiences are those shared with friends and loved ones, enhancing the narrative of our journey as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Paul, Judy & Jennifer on Paul's Indian Motorcycle

Charting New Horizons: Our Sweeping Southwestern Expedition.

I typically do not focus extensively on specific metrics. I know that Judy and I have been living the RV lifestyle since June of 2023, which equates to approximately 2 ½ years. That’s an easy number to recite. Recently, however, I have become more cognizant of additional data points. Notably, this marks my 61^st blog post, and the site has received close to 10,000 views to date.  That’s pretty good, given I have no other social media presence. The primary factor contributing to the aforementioned figures is our extensive travel undertaken to achieve these metrics. To date, we have visited 25 of the 50 contiguous United States and 4 of Canada’s 10 provinces. We have stayed at more than 60 campsites, and Neil the Northpoint has covered nearly 19,000 miles. Over the past two and a half years, we have spent over 423 days on the road, representing approximately 50% of that time period. Along the way, we’ve gathered countless memories and stories that have made every mile worthwhile. From scenic mountain passes to bustling city campgrounds, each destination has added a unique chapter to our journey. Our travels have introduced us to a diverse array of fellow adventurers, friendly locals, and unforgettable experiences that have enriched our lives far beyond what the metrics alone could ever convey. As we look ahead, the anticipation of new places to explore and more tales to share continues to fuel our excitement for the road ahead, proving that the true impact of this lifestyle lies not just in the numbers, but in the adventures and connections we make along the way.

And in just a few weeks we will set course for a new adventure, our grandest and longest to date. As the season changes to fall, and the leaves change color and clutter the ground in New England, we will be packing up Neil the Northpoint and heading on a mammoth 9,000-mile, 28-stop, 185-day sweeping tour of the southwestern United States, which will include extensive forays into Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. Upon completion of this trip, we will be able to add 6 additional states to the already extensive list detailed above.

165 day, 9,000-mile, 28-stop Southwestern US Trip 

There is just so much to tell you about this trip that has been in the planning stages for almost a year now. We leave before Halloween, and will spend the first month getting the RV to the warmer climate of Memphis, TN. The route south includes a stop near Bethlehem, PA, followed by two stops on the West Virginia side of the Shenandoah Valley. The first destination is Harpers Ferry, WV, known for the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. Having previously visited towns on the Virginia side of the Shenandoah Valley, this trip will focus exclusively on the West Virginia region. Our second stop is in a town called Princeton, WV. This town has a history closely linked to the West Virginia coal industry, as it was a major hub for rail shipments of coal either north to Ohio or east to Maryland. The itinerary progresses into Tennessee, with a brief stop in Monterey, before completing our pre-Thanksgiving travel just outside of Memphis, across the Mississippi River in Arkansas. We will then fly back to Boston to celebrate Thanksgiving with the family.

The first week in December we return to “Neil the Northpoint” in Memphis, and soon thereafter pack up and head out on the bulk of our trip to the southwestern United States. It would be much too cumbersome to outline each stop of our 3 ¹/₂-month pilgrimage, so here is a quick list just so you know what you will be reading about in future blog posts.

• First off to Brandon, Mississippi, just outside the capital of Jackson.

• Then on to Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, just outside the Lafayette, in the heart of Cajun culture.

• We follow the Gulf of Mexico (Yes, I said it) with our first stop in Galveston, Texas.

• Then we head northwest to Austin, Texas.

• Back to the gulf coast to our southernmost stop in Corpus Christi, Texas.

• Heading northwest we stop in Del Rio, Texas, on the Mexico border.

• We’re headed to Big Bend National Park in the westernmost part of Texas, a town called Terlingua, TX.

•  After five stops in Texas, we leave the state and arrive in Carlsbad, New Mexico

• Las Cruces, New Mexico is our next stop, a town that blends Spanish, Native American, and Mexican influences.

• On we go to our third southwestern state, Arizona, with our first stop being in Tucson.

• Our second stop in Arizona is the state capital of Phoenix.

• Our third stop is in northern Arizona, near Sedona and Flagstaff.

• We’re heading east again as we re-enter New Mexico for a much-anticipated stop in Santa Fe.

• As we continue our journey east, we have a 6^th stop in Texas, the city of Amarillo.

• Oklahoma City, OK, is next on our agenda as we continue to follow Interstate 40 east.

• We officially leave the southwestern states when we enter Missouri on our way to Springfield.

After finishing most of the 3 1/2-month expedition, we pause near St. Louis, MO, park “Neil the Northpoint” for approximately three weeks, and travel to Boston for two weeks of spring skiing in Lincoln, New Hampshire.

We have consistently sought to explore extensive regions of the United States during each of our journeys. Each successive trip has become longer and includes more destinations, which is understandable given our location in the northeastern corner of the country. This position necessitates extended travel to reach areas that often seem quite distant. Additionally, every journey requires passage through states and locations we have previously visited, making it increasingly challenging to find new destinations, particularly when traveling through the Midwest.  The final month of our journey involves returning east through previously traveled regions, while including stops in new locations. For instance, although we have passed through Kentucky before, this will be our first time camping in the state, beginning with a visit to Louisville. Similarly, despite frequent trips to Ohio, this will mark our initial visit to the state capital, Columbus. The route continues through Curwensville, Pennsylvania, followed by Newburgh, New York, before concluding in Massachusetts in late April.

 I have spent hundreds of hours reviewing our travel itinerary, “googling” cities, towns, states and regions to maximize our exposure to these places, and now, as the journey draws near, the anticipation is building each day. Each new stop promises its own blend of discoveries—distinct cuisine, natural beauty, and local traditions—making every mile traveled feel worthwhile. With our preparations nearly complete, we’re ready to embrace whatever the road brings, knowing that every moment will add to the tapestry of memories we’re weaving across the country as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Visiting the Best & Biggest Lakes of Maine on our Way Home from Canada.

Fresh off our fantastic stop in Old Québec City, we headed due south and re-entered the US way up in the northern Maine woods. We crossed into the US at the remote Armstrong–Jackman Border Crossing. Our destination was Greenville, ME, known as the "gateway to the North Maine Woods" because it is located on the southern end of Moosehead Lake. Moosehead Lake is Maine's largest lake and Greenville was a great town for exploring the vast wilderness around the lake. The town  has been the central hub for the region since it was chartered in 1836. By 1884, visitors would travel by railroad to Greenville and then board steam ferries bound for places like Rockwood, Mount Kineo, Sugar Island, and other northern destinations. Currently, Greenville is a popular jumping off point for many activities like fishing, hiking, camping, and numerous winter sports. Moosehead Lake is wonderful - very clean and a hotbed of boating activities. What caught my attention was the number of floatplanes on the lake, as well as floatplane garages nestled into the shoreline. Coincidentally, Greenville, ME hosts the annual International Seaplane Fly-In on Moosehead Lake which occurred just days after our departure. And, like a number of other stops on this trip, our daughter, Morgan, drove up from Massachusetts to join us. It should not be surprising that the primary activities of this stop were centered around hiking through the beautiful landscape, and spending time on Moosehead Lake.

Moosehead Lake aboard the Steamship "Katahdin"

One of the first adventures we signed up for was a ride on the restored steamship called The Katahdin (or "The Kate"). This historic 1914 steamboat was initially built for transporting summer guests to resorts and hotels around Moosehead Lake. When automotive transportation made steamships obsolete, the steamer was refitted with a diesel engine and converted to a tow boat to haul lumber across the lake. Logging is big business in this part of Maine, and, prior to 1973, it would not have been uncommon to see large flotillas of logs being corralled by the good ship Katahdin and moved across the lake. The Katahdin is the only remaining steamboat from the early 20^th century, offering passengers a spacious deck for enjoying the lake's wilderness. One of the highlights of the 5-hour boat ride was the stunning views and vistas around Mount Kineo, as we approached from the lakeside, staring up at the amazing granite cliffs. 

 As much fun as we had on the boat ride, I would be remiss in my account of this stop without mentioning the wonderful hiking trails we were able to explore in the Maine woods. First observation: the air just feels so much fresher, and the smells of the pine forests permeate the senses. Second observation: the trails were clearly marked, and throughout much of our hike, we experienced a sense of solitude, as if we were the only individuals on the paths. Both hikes were somewhere around 4 miles in length, and both hikes featured stunning lake vistas.

• Our first hike was at Lily Bay State Park. A 925-acre park situated on the shores of Moosehead Lake. The park was established in 1961 from land donated by the Scott Paper Company. With picnic tables and a beach, there is a wonderful shoreline hike, which offers stunning views of Moosehead Lake.

Little Moose Pond

• Our second hike was considerably more challenging. We spent almost 3 hours hiking Moose Pond Loop Trail.  Considered a moderately difficult trail, this loop trail included a significant climb to the summit of Moose Mountain. We took the recommended clockwise route for its pleasant views and ate our picnic lunch atop Little Moose Mountain. The hike concluded with a walk along the beach area at Big Moose Pond.

Atop Moose Mountain

The size of Maine, as a state, became clear during this trip. Previous RV journeys and long drives have shown that making several stops in one state on a single trip often reflects its large area. On this trip, there were three stops in Maine, with the last one being Naples, in the Maine Lakes region. We are quite familiar with this area. Judy and the kids spent many summers in the Lakes Region at an overnight camp. In the mid 2000’s, they went to overnight summer camp in Bridgton. Judy worked as Girls’ Unit Head at the camp and the kids spent their summers as campers. I would drive up on weekends, and when Judy had time off, we would explore the area. Although it had been 10 years since our last summer there, it was nice to revisit an old haunt and see how much had changed.  

We made the best of a particularly rainy Sunday by taking a 45-minute ride to Portland, Maine to go to the Portland Museum of Art. The PMA contains a significant collection of American, European, and contemporary art, taking great pride in displaying works from local Maine artists such as Ann Craven, Alex Katz, and Winslow Homer.  

And when the skies were clear and sunny we took advantage of the hiking available in the area.

• As we were so close to Sebago Lake, our first hike was through Sebago Lake State Park. Sebago Lake is the second largest and deepest lake in Maine. Second only to Moosehead Lake in size, Sebago Lake is also very clean and provides drinking water for much of the area. The park contains a beach area, boat launching ramps, and a large picnic area complete with bathroom facilities. At over 1,300 acres there are plenty of trails and hikes to choose from. We chose the Loop Trail which was a 3 ½ mile hike around the park, complete with lovely views of the lake and surrounding natural forest. We stopped for a picnic lunch at one of the many tables along the shore.

Sebago Lake State Park Beach

Holt Pond Preserve

• Our hike through the 400-acre Holt Pond Preserve offered a rewarding experience, presenting a moderate level of challenge.  The terrain was rutted with roots, rocks, and the occasional fallen trees. That being said, there was also an extensive assemblage of laddered walkways and wood boardwalks placed in the wetland areas, keeping our feet dry and out of the mud whilst also protecting the ecosystem.  The clearly marked 4 ½ mile loop guided us through varied landscapes such as bogs, thickets, and dense pine forests.  We took our time, had lunch along the Muddy River, and snapped a few pictures of the scenery.

It pains me to have to say it, but this entry marks the final blog post documenting our journey, "Canada or Bust."  Over the past 2 ½ months, we have travelled as guests of our northern neighbor, experiencing a memorable and rewarding trip. Our itinerary included revisiting locations from 2017 as well as exploring new destinations. The combination of familiar sites and fresh camping experiences contributed significantly to the uniqueness of this journey. And, if you have been following along for the last 6 or 7 blog posts, then I hope you have enjoyed the trip as well. We love reading your comments and suggestions. So, what happens now?  I’m glad you asked. We have been planning for a winter 2025 / 2026 trip which we have named, “Exploring the Southwest US”. This will be a 6-month odyssey to visit states like Texas, New Mexico & Arizona, keeping “Neil the Northpoint” in southern states for the entire winter. Our biggest trip to date in mileage, number of stops, and time spent on the road. Our Journey begins the third week of October, and I will be writing more about places we are planning to visit. In the meantime, thanks for following along as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Feeling European: Exploring Old Québec City and Lévis

We’ve used ferries to do a lot of commuting and sightseeing on this trip. While we have previously taken occasional excursion ferries to destinations such as the Apostle Islands of Wisconsin, visiting Raspberry and Madeline Islands, these trips were recreational and involved return journeys on the same vessel. In contrast, this summer’s journey has included regular use of commuter ferries, which serve as essential transportation links for daily travel between major landmasses separated by water. These ferries are integral to local transit rather than being limited to sightseeing. Even for seasoned RV’ers, it’s not that often that the whole rig, monster truck and 5^th Wheel “fit” onto a ferry. But there are ferries that are large enough to accommodate commercial trucking, and if the ferry is big enough for a 68-foot-long tractor trailer, then it’s large enough to hold “the Beast” and “Neil the Northpoint”.  That’s exactly what we used to travel from St. John, New Brunswick to Digby, Nova Scotia. This 2 ½ hour ferry crossing of the Bay of Fundy eliminated more than 250 miles of driving up and around.  And whilst we’re on the subject of Nova Scotia, Judy and I were on the ferry multiple times between Dartmouth & Halifax, Nova Scotia. That ferry is a main staple of commuting between the very livable suburb of Dartmouth, and the financial and governing capital of Halifax.

Ferry from Levis to Old Quebec City

If you have never visited Old Québec City, then I should explain that the city is reminiscent of a European city, with narrow streets and very little parking. Not the place we wanted to bring a big truck or try to find suitable parking. And we didn’t have to! Much like the Halifax to Dartmouth ferry, there is a ferry that is a staple for commuting across the St. Lawrence River. The Québec City–Lévis Ferry offers year-round transit across the river. The crossing takes just 12 minutes, the terminals are modern and easy to navigate, and the ferry ride provides for spectacular views of Old Québec and the Château Frontenac. The RV park in Lévis was a short drive from the ferry terminal and parking was easy, so we rode the ferry multiple times to commute into Old Québec City. 

What we Did, Saw, or Participated In in Old Québec City:

We took a walking tour of Old Québec City, led by our knowledgeable local guide, Pierre. The tour provided expert navigation through the city’s lively streets and shopping districts and served as an excellent introduction to the area. Notable stops included the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Québec and the charming pedestrian lanes of the Petit-Champlain District. Utilizing the funicular, we efficiently travelled from the lower city to the upper city, where the tour continued with visits to historic landmarks such as the Château Frontenac and City Hall. In just 2-hours, we visited a lot of the city, had a couple of restaurant suggestions, and were better equipped to make a return visit on our own.

We returned to Old Québec City to join up with a cousin of mine who lives in Montréal. Dann, who has lived in Montréal for close to a decade, traveled by Canadian Rail to Québec City, and we met him at the historic Gare du Palais train station. Built in 1915 by the Canadian Pacific Railway in a distinctive châteauesque style, it has an impressive exterior. Unfortunately, the building is in the midst of a massive restoration, and the inside was not nearly as impressive as the exterior. We entered expecting soaring ceilings and instead were met with construction barriers and a cramped waiting area. It was a bit of a disappointment.

If you ever find yourself in Old Québec City, I would strongly recommend you take an afternoon to visit The Musee de la Civilisation. This is a modern cultural museum that explores human experience and society through original and interactive exhibitions. The museum offers a fresh look at the human condition and the history of Québec, featuring exhibits on topics such as Indigenous nations, the Titanic, and the Human Story. It’s a fabulous building located in the lower city, and we stayed all afternoon and were literally asked to leave at closing time.

Umbrellas - Le Petit Champlain

Old Québec City is so captivating that we had to return to spend an afternoon just wandering the streets. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is an example of a fortified colonial town, with a significant role in the European settlement of North America. We were drawn to its authentic European ambiance and its connection to 17th-century New France. We spent time in the upper city, walking along Dufferin Terrace, then up hill to the Plains of Abraham battlefield and the Citadel of Québec. It’s a beautiful European looking city which just happens to be located on the North American continent.

Overlooking the Lower City

What we Did, Saw, or Participated In in the City of Lévis:

One of the biggest surprises of this stop was our visit to a regional park in Lévis called Parc des Chutes-de-la-Chaudière. Located on the Chaudière River, this urban park has it all, and we took advantage of as much as we could. There are miles of paved trails, a 370-foot-long suspension bridge, and a 115-foot-tall waterfall. This entire park was designed around the re-building of a “run of the river” hydroelectric plant which generates 24 megawatts of clean energy. Walking through the park, placards tell the story of the old hydroelectric plant destroyed in 1970, as well as the reimagined new facility, built in 1999, which combined the falls with power generation and the setting of a regional park. A fantastic example of industrial power generation interwoven into an expansive park with plenty of recreational activities.

 

Black-Eyed-Susans on Parcous de Anses

The city of Lévis is a premier destination for recreation, offering a comprehensive range of facilities and activities. We loved Fontaine du Quai Paquet, which is a large-scale water feature and splash park, offering water elements that looked very inviting on a hot August day. Adjacent to the fountain is the The Parcours des Anses which is a 9.5 mile long scenic, paved bike path and walking trail, offering beautiful views of the St. Lawrence River and Québec City. We had a nice walk, stopped to smell the flowers, and enjoyed the scenery.

Ostara Market, Levis

Last but not least, we took, along with cousin Dann, a Historic Walking Tour of Lévis with a stop and tasting at the local farmers’ market called the Ostara Market. We are just suckers for historic walking tours, and we had a wonderful time with our guide, Guy. We started our tour at the oldest church in North America called the Old Lady of Victory Catholic Church. It is a beautifully adorned neoclassical church built between 1830 and 1860. We continued on through the streets of Lévis, hearing about the rich history, as well as the current state of the city, and concluded our journey at an overlook called the Terrasse du Chevalier-de- Lévis, which offered splendid views of the St. Lawrence River and Old Québec City. We did a little shopping at the farmers’ market, got a sampling of some of the available homemade sausages and fresh vegetables, before returning Dann to the Québec City–Lévis Ferry, for his trip back to Montreal.  

Dann, Judy, and Steven at Terrasse de Chevalier de Levis

We did not confine our sightseeing to just Lévis & Québec City. Our 9-day stop provided ample time to venture outside the immediate metropolis areas to a town called Wendake in Québec. Wendake refers to the community, urban reserve, and territory where the Huron-Wendat Nation lives. It is the only recognized Huron-Wendat community in Canada, and it has an “immersive experience”, the likes of which Judy and I have never seen before. We were advised by our daughter, Morgan, that this was one nighttime adventure we had to make time for, and she was absolutely correct. The experience is called Onhwa' Lumina, and it is an immersive, poetic night walk, that uses light, sound, and video projections to tell the stories, symbols, and rhythms of the Huron-Wendat Nation. We journeyed through an illuminated ³/₄-mile forest trail, after sundown, and experienced multimedia installations and an original soundtrack that
explored themes like the creation myth, the cycle of life,
and the connection to all living things, all rooted in the rich creative traditions of the Huron-
Wendat culture. The entire experience was so remarkable that we chose to walk the ¾ mile loop again, finding features we missed the first time through. 

Onhwa' Lumina Immersive Night Walk

The official language of Québec is French, which imparts a distinctly European atmosphere within close proximity to the United States border. Despite not speaking a word of French, both Judy and I found communication straightforward, as individuals we encountered were able to transition seamlessly to English following a simple greeting. The bilingual environment in Québec proved both accommodating and reassuring. As this marks the conclusion of our travels in Canada, we will now proceed southward to re-enter the United States, with our next destination being Greenville, in northern Maine. While English is the official language in Maine, it is noteworthy that local dialects may present unique linguistic variations as we continue our journey and tell… the Rest of the Story.