Journeys Through Hills & Heartache In Memory of Jason Seltzer

Judy and I have engaged in an ongoing discussion regarding the number of visits, as well as the number of nights, required to gain a broad understanding of a particular state. Limiting a visit to a single stop in even a small state may not result in a full appreciation of a state’s charm and character. We found West Virginia to be one such state. Don’t get me wrong, we saw a lot in Harpers Ferry and learned a lot about the city’s historical importance, but the city is a tourist destination, and we did a lot of touristy things while there. Our second stop in Princeton, WV, provided a notably more authentic experience. With these two stops, we can say we've genuinely explored & experienced West Virginia and gained a deeper appreciation of its rugged landscapes and local charm, as well as its important place in 18^th & 19^th century Americana.

When you hear the popular refrain, “The hills of West Virginia”,.. “they ain’t a-lie’n” [sic]. I was surprised by the terrain we had to drive through; it was either uphill or downhill the whole way. When compared to places like Wyoming or Colorado, West Virginia's mountains aren't as tall, so the changes in elevation are less extreme. On the other hand, WV roadways traverse closely spaced hills and valleys, giving the impression of an endless series of ascents and descents, where you’re almost never driving on flat ground for long. I have learned that the entire state is part of the Lower Appalachian mountain chain, thus explaining the rugged mountain landscape. Whilst we’re on the subject of roads, I’d like to add another observation: West Virginia rarely uses guardrails on its steep, winding secondary roads, even when missing a turn could send you plunging hundreds of feet into a ravine. I found that many locals I met during our visit shared this same perspective. Still, the endless hills and pristine landscape gave us a true sense of the state’s rugged natural beauty. The scenery, while initially overwhelming, truly impresses with its stunning views and abundance of natural areas perfect for outdoor recreation. Opportunities for hiking, biking, horseback riding, and fishing are all conveniently nearby. Here were some of our favorites:

Camp Creek State Park

Camp Creek State Park is a 6,000-acre park situated in a scenic, mountainous area in the southern part of the state known for its waterfalls and forests. With such a big park, there were a couple of parking areas which allowed access to various recreational activities and attractions. We chose to walk a 2-mile portion of the much longer Turkey Loop Trail. This path led us up and by Campbell Falls, and then through Double C Horse and Rider Campground, a campground specifically set up for equestrian activities. The campsites include stables, pens, and water, and allow riding on 35 miles of trails. I got saddle sores just thinking about it. We walked about 4 miles in total, crunching through the fallen fall leaves on a nice sunny day.

Campbell Falls

Pipestem Resort State Park

Atop the Aerial "Trammy", Pipestem State Park

Located just 21 miles east of Camp Creek State Park, there's another state park with so many amenities it's considered a "resort." Perched on the eastern rim of the Bluestone River Gorge, this park offers hiking, fishing, disc golf, zip lining, mountain biking, picnic spots, and even a 9-hole golf course. Overnight guests have plenty of choices, including rental cabins, 31 full-service RV campsites, 82 rustic campsites, and two lodges outfitted with hotel-style comforts. One of these lodges, The Mountain Creek Lodge, sits at the bottom of the Bluestone River Gorge. The easiest scenic way to reach it is by riding an aerial tram that descends 1,200 feet from the parking area at the top down to the lodge. We took the tram to the bottom of the gorge, appreciating the stunning views as we descended. After walking along the Bluestone River and thoroughly enjoying the tranquil atmosphere, we returned via tram to the scenic overlook and enjoyed a pleasant picnic lunch. This state park exceeded expectations, what a gem of a park.

Relaxing at the bottom of Bluestone River Gorge, Pipestem Resort State Park

Lotito City Park

On one particularly cold afternoon, we made our way south to Bluefield, WV, with plans to explore Lotito City Park. Adjacent to the Bluefield State University Campus, the park was being transformed into the Holiday of Lights festival, with hundreds of illuminated displays featuring whimsical characters and festive decorations. A miniature train also circles the park’s perimeter. In just a few weeks, thousands of families will visit to enjoy the light show and take walks or train rides around the park. Although the walking paths were easy, the chilly, biting wind made our brief two-mile walk challenging, so we returned to the camper. As temperatures continued to drop, it turned into one of the coldest nights we've ever spent in the camper.

Holiday Lighting Display, Lotito City Park

During our time in Princeton, we experienced several pleasant autumn days that allowed us

to explore the outdoor activities available in the local area. However, the weather eventually shifted, first becoming rainy, then giving way to a period of significant arctic cold, and finally resulting in snowfall. But I’m getting ahead of myself here, let’s begin with our visit to the Princeton Railroad Museum on our first day of inclement weather. The Princeton Railroad Museum is a modest, yet well-curated institution focused on the historical significance of regional railroads, with particular emphasis on the Virginian Railway. The best part was the personalized attention we got from the museum’s curator, Pat Smith. This charming woman noticed that we were from out of town (maybe it was the accent), and then proceeded to provide us with a 20-minute guided tour of the museum's artifacts, pointing out newly acquired pieces, as well as an overview of the historical and industrial context of the region at the time when the railroads were an important means of transportation. Pat then offered, and we accepted, an opportunity to be photographed in front of the restored Virginian caboose (#308). A great way to spend a rainy and raw day outside of the camper.

We ended up staying in Princeton, WV longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, unexpected events force us to adapt, and we've gotten used to adjusting our travel plans on short notice. While towing the trailer through the hilly landscape we mentioned earlier, the truck's check engine light suddenly came on. The check engine light suddenly appearing on the dashboard, with no other alert indicators, has been a nagging issue for the last 4 months or so; we have had the vehicle checked by ASE-certified auto mechanics multiple times. But this time, the GMC dealership in Princeton needed some additional time with the truck to diagnose and repair the problem. So, we added two more days to our stay and deducted them from our next stop in Tennessee. This actually worked in our favor, because the weather turned downright cold and snowy the night before we would have been scheduled to leave. The prospect of packing up, hitching up, and driving through snow squalls was not very enticing. Temperatures during the anticipated travel day never got above freezing. With the truck in the shop, all we could do for a solid day was huddle up in the camper and think warm thoughts. In the afternoon, we got some positive news that the truck would be ready the next day and that, after one more night in sub-freezing temperatures, the weather would warm up, and warm up rapidly.

That should have been the end of the story. Unfortunately, it was not. You see my dear readers, later in the evening, with the winds howling around the camper,

Jason (Jay) Seltzer

Judy’s father, Jason Seltzer, passed away in his assisted living apartment in Boca Raton, FL. The patriarch and most distinguished man with numerous achievements died only six weeks shy of his 95th birthday. You may have seen Judy’s beautifully written obituary on her Facebook page (and if you haven’t, here is the link: Obituary, Jason "Jay" Seltzer). Sorry, not the conclusion you may have been expecting, and surely not the one we like to tell. But sometimes that’s what life brings, sorrow amidst moments of joy and adventure. Jay loved reading this blog when he was able. Judy would frequently call her dad whenever a new blog was published, he loved reading about and “being in on” the journey. So, I dedicate this blog post to Mr. Jason Seltzer, without whose love and support this entire retirement RV lifestyle would not have been possible, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Journeys Beyond the Map: Memories, Milestones, and Meaning in Harpers Ferry.

At this stage, I am beginning to feel the pressure, though perhaps not in the way one might expect. We have recently reached the halfway point in our goal of visiting and camping in all 50 states. While Hawaii presents certain logistical challenges, it remains an essential part of our objective. Prior to embarking on our initial RV journey in 2023, I had not contemplated the prospect of experiencing every state; it was not something that had occurred to me as a widespread pursuit. However, I soon observed that many RVs and campers display maps of the United States on their vehicles, each marking the states they have visited. We adhere to specific criteria when determining whether a state has been visited. Merely passing through a state does not qualify. To count a state, we require a stay of more than two days at a campsite, which must also include participation in an excursion or tour. For readers of this blog, it is important to note that a state is recognized as visited only if it has been detailed in a blog post. Using these criteria, as of this blog post we have visited 27 states, with the state of West Virginia joining the list, as of this stop in Harpers Ferry, WV.

Confluence Point @ Shenandoah & Potomac River 

Harpers Ferry serves as an excellent starting point for a journey through West Virginia, offering a distinctive blend of significant American history and remarkable natural landscapes. Renowned for its pivotal role in events leading up to the Civil War, such as John Brown's Raid, it holds strategic importance in Civil War history. The location is notably picturesque, positioned at the confluence where the Shenandoah meets the Potomac River. This area, known as "The Point," marks the intersection of West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland. Even though we visited the area on a cold and overcast day, it is easy to understand why over 400,000 tourists visit Harpers Ferry every year.

What makes Harpers Ferry unique is that it is an actual town, with town citizens and governing council, INSIDE a National Historic Park. For those needing a little background, a national

Jefferson Rock Overlook on the Appalachian Trail

historical park means that it is a protected area managed by the National Park Service to preserve its significant historical, cultural, and natural features for public enjoyment and education. We were thrilled to find that, despite the Federal Government shutdown, the Harpers Ferry visitor center was open, as were the shuttle buses that ferried visitors to the town center. The town of Harpers Ferry was also open for business, which included restaurants and museums in the Town Center. However, with the shutdown, there were no National Park Service (NPS) personnel to answer questions or lead tours. Instead, we had to rely on the NPS phone App. On the App. we were able to follow an eight-stop walking tour of Harpers Ferry, which included historical context and additional commentary. The best part was that the App worked along with Google Maps to provide excellent walking guidance through the park. And, if we found something interesting or got a bit sidetracked, Google Maps was always there to get us back on track. During our NPS walking tour to Jefferson Rock, we actually followed part of the Appalachian Trail. This 2,200-mile trail, which begins in Georgia and ends in Maine, passes directly through, of all places, the historic town of Harpers Ferry.

Harper House Balcony with view of St. Peters Roman Catholic Church 

Having the luxury of spending a full week in the area, we were able to visit surrounding cities & towns with significant historic lineage. One such city is called Martinsburg, which is about 25 miles north of Harpers Ferry. In Martinsburg, the Historical Society of Berkely County has restored the 1853 Greek Revival house once owned by Ben Boyd, father to the notorious confederate spy Belle Boyd. Belle earned her fame as a Confederate spy and confidant of General Stonewall Jackson. In addition to running messages with sensitive information to the Confederates, Belle shot and killed a Union soldier who entered the family home in 1861. She was imprisoned in Washington, DC on two separate occasions. Ironically, after the war, Belle Boyd married a Union officer and became an actress on the London stage.

The other city we had the time to explore was due east of Harpers Ferry called Frederick, MD.

In the 19th century, Frederick also thrived as an industrial center, producing flour and timber, distilling whiskey, and tanning leather. We joined a 90-minute walking tour of the historic downtown, during which we discovered that Frederick has played a pivotal role at the crossroads of American history over the centuries. Frederick served as an important center for trade, migration, and military operations in American history because it sits at the intersection of major historic and modern transport routes like the National Road, the B&O Railroad, and the C&O Canal. The city played a significant role from the colonial era and the French and Indian War through the Civil War. Frederick is also known as both the birthplace and burial site of Francis Scott Key, a notable figure during the Revolutionary War, and it provided temporary shelter for President Lincoln during the Civil War.

Following the tour of Frederick, we continued our exploration of the city by walking to Carroll Creek Linear Park. As it was the first Saturday of the month, we had the opportunity to attend the "First Saturday Street Festival”, which included extended hours for local businesses, restaurants, and galleries offering special events, tastings, and exhibits. The Carroll Creek Linear Park is exceptionally picturesque, featuring numerous water elements, wide walkways along the creek, ample seating areas, and elegant pedestrian bridges. Overall, it provided an outstanding setting for an afternoon walk.

Carroll Creek Linear Park

Our seven-day stay was packed with activity. When we weren’t touring Harpers Ferry

Elana & Rich Walking School House Ridge North

or exploring nearby cities, we spent quality time catching up with friends and family from the tri-state area (Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia). Sharing time with friends and discovering their hometowns together always brings us joy. Elana and Rich, also a Clark University couple like Judy and me, were our first guests in Harpers Ferry. They toured “Neil the Northpoint” and got an up-close look at RV living. Since Elana and Rich had already hiked the trails around Harpers Ferry before, we opted for a different adventure, a hike along the historic School House Ridge North, part of the old Civil War battlefield. The 1⅓-mile uphill trek followed the path Confederate Commander Stonewall Jackson took during his successful 1862 campaign to capture Harpers Ferry. From the top of School House Ridge, Jackson’s men faced Union forces stationed at Harpers Ferry and along Bolivar Heights. The Confederates managed to outflank the Union soldiers, leading to Jackson’s capture of Harpers Ferry and the surrender of 12,000 Union troops. The walk was fascinating, enriched by informative signs posted along the way.

Visiting family is always a delight. We drove about 45 minutes into Maryland to see Judy’s sister, Pam, her brother-in-law Scott, their son Noah and his wife Jennifer, and Chase, the sweetest little grandniece imaginable. Chase is an adorable 4-year-old toddler with blonde hair, and she had all four adults, born before the 1970s, completely wrapped around her finger. Our time reconnecting with family added warmth and laughter to our adventure, reminding us that the most cherished memories come from the people we share them with. We also take great delight in sharing these experiences through the blog, hoping they inspire others to embark on their own adventures. Ultimately, it’s not just about crossing states off a map—it’s about the stories, people, and places that make the journey remarkable, as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

From Flat Tires to Steel Stacks: Unforgettable Trails and Tales Through Pennsylvania!

We’re off again just 7 weeks after returning to Massachusetts from our Canadian Maritime summer trip. As we set off to explore the southwestern United States, we have a mix of nerves and excitement at the prospect of a new adventure. For the most part, I tend to convey an upbeat tone in relating the tales of our RV travels, but our journeys do, at times, come with their own set of challenges.

For example, less than 90 minutes after we set out, somewhere in northern Connecticut, a tire on the RV blew out while we were on the highway. A passing car, waving at us furiously, alerted us to a problem, and a quick check in the mirror saw pieces of rubber flying off the RV’s wheel. We immediately pulled to the side of the highway, “Neil the Northpoint” was going nowhere. Having not ever experienced this type of emergency whilst traveling, we were in uncharted territory. Fortunately, there are emergency & tire repair services who specialize in aiding truckers, and we were able to take advantage of one of these services. Roadside assistance was dispatched to our location where we received help changing out the tire. All told, our roadside emergency delayed our travel by about 2 hours, and we learned a lot about how to negotiate any similar issues we may encounter. We landed at our first stop in Quakertown, PA in daylight, safe and sound.  Every journey brings its surprises, but each challenge helps us grow and adds to the adventure. With a positive outlook and a spirit for discovery, we’re on the road again, after a bumpy start.

All our trips leave from and conclude in Massachusetts, so when traveling to destinations in the west, southwest, or south we always transit through Pennsylvania. A good day’s travel for us is about 5 ½ hours (approx. 320-miles) which places us somewhere in the Keystone State for a stopover. The challenge lies in identifying new towns, cities, or regions to visit without traversing previously explored areas. In past trips we have visited the Lake Erie Region, the city of Philadelphia, the city of Pittsburgh, and much of the Ohio Valley Region. My brother, Paul, lives in Lancaster County, PA, and as such we have visited Harrisburg, Hershey, and other towns in the Susquehanna Valley. I planned this trip to highlight the Lehigh Valley region. We stayed in Quakertown, PA, a short distance from the major industrial cities of Allentown, Bethlehem, & Easton. The Lehigh Valley was an economic and industrial powerhouse from the mid-19th century through most of the 20th century, driven by the iron, steel, and cement industries. This era was marked by the transformative power of the Lehigh Canal and later the Lehigh Valley Railroad, which enabled the region to transport raw materials and finished goods to major markets.

We made the most of the pleasant autumn weather by hiking several times in Nockamixon State Park, which was only a few miles from our campsite. The park spans 5,280 acres and features Lake Nockamixon, a man-made lake covering 1,450 acres as its centerpiece, along with numerous trails for walking, hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Of the hikes we took, my favorite was the second one, a 3.8-mile trek along the Elephant Trail on the lake’s southern shore.

Nockamixon State Park 

One of the reasons for the Lehigh Valley’s immense economic vitality in the 19^th century was

Lock Tender's House, The Canal Museum

the ability to use the rivers and tributaries to move raw materials to the major cities on the east coast. This history is preserved at The National Canal Museum in Easton, PA, the only U.S. museum dedicated to the history of American towpath canals. The museum is situated on what remains of The Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company’s canal system. Prior to the canal’s opening in 1820, moving material down the Lehigh River was a treacherous and deadly operation.  A system of locks and dams was needed to tame the Lehigh River and negotiate the over 900 feet of elevation drop along the 72-mile waterway. Josiah White, a brilliant engineer and a Quaker, and Erskine Hazards, who had connections to east coast money, came together to form the entity that both mined the anthracite coal and transported it to Philadelphia. We spent the day walking along the towpaths, visiting the interactive museum, and riding the canal boat being pulled up and down the canal by a real pair of live mules named Hank & George.

Canal Boat Ride, The Canal Museum

I planned to visit several steel mill towns in the Lehigh Valley. My brother, who’s lived in Lancaster for several years, had warned me that some industrial towns handled the closure of

their mills better than others. Bearing this in mind, we skipped Allentown (sorry, Billy Joel) and chose Bethlehem, famed for being the birthplace of Bethlehem Steel. At its peak, the Bethlehem Steel plant stretched five miles, covered 1,800 acres, and provided jobs for nearly 30,000 workers across its various operations. The site boasted five massive blast furnaces producing thousands of tons of pig iron, alongside machine shops, repair facilities, roll forming and forging presses, testing laboratories, and over 450 miles of railway tracks shuttling iron ore, coke, and limestone to the furnaces. Even now, after years of abandonment and partial demolition, the sheer scale of the remaining buildings is incredible. Bethlehem Steel shut down completely in 2003, but since then the city has found creative ways to redevelop the vast site. The original plant now houses SteelStacks, an arts and culture campus with a concert and event stage set amid the former blast furnaces. The area also includes the National Museum of Industrial History, located in the old Electric Repair Shop. As we explored the campus, we got an up-close look at the towering steel stack structures that are the remnants of the blast furnaces. I was particularly impressed by the exhibits at and around the Industrial History Museum, which feature outstanding permanent displays on iron, steel, and early industrial machinery, as well as engaging presentations about other significant industries like textiles and propane. For the first time since my retirement, I found myself thinking, “This is a museum where I could actually see myself volunteering.”

The highlight of our initial stop in Quakertown, PA, and the primary reason for our frequent returns to this region, is the valuable opportunity to spend time with my brother and sister-in-law, Paul and Jen. Given the rarity of familiar faces in our nomadic lifestyle, visiting family members where they live is especially meaningful. While our travels take us to diverse locations and present unforeseen challenges, the most rewarding experiences are those shared with friends and loved ones, enhancing the narrative of our journey as we tell… the Rest of the Story.

Paul, Judy & Jennifer on Paul's Indian Motorcycle